Corydoras Longpinnis

daspricey

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Hi,

I would like to know about the care of these lil guys, ph, water current etc. Also how big do they get?

I'm looking to get some for a 5ft subtropical in a few months. I also have intentions of breeding them if i can get hold of some.

Cheers

David

Ps, how do i tell them from long fin corydoras paleatus?
 
C. longipinnus

I don't know their temp conditon, but mid 70's faranheit is usually acceptable with any Cory. That's what mine are at presently. Mine from Frank adapted easily from a lower ph, I believe, to my ph which is fairly high--mid 7 to high 7.

I know two sources for them Coryologist (Frank), who breeds them, and CorysRUs (Bryan), who imports them wild.
 
Thanks. I'll let you all know when/if i get some. :)

Oh and has anyone got any info on breeding them?
 
Frank/Coryologist and probably Coryman/Ian. In general: have them in a Cory only tank. Do cool water changes daily--or so. I would have water movement, such as an air stone. Feed them high protien food, such as live black worms, blood worms, brine shrimp, etc.
 
Cool. They will go straight into a 30" tank to settle for a couple of weeks. Then i'll try getting them too breed.
Would a fluval 2 produce too much flow? (I have a few air pump lying around though)

Thanks for all your help!
 
Most Corys are river fish. They like current and fresh cool water influx. It triggers their "it's a good time for a family" dna code. There are also some barametric weather changes that get them excited, but the water changes, water currents and conditioning food are the main keys, I believe. Also they are secure in group numbers. The more the merrier and more active. They are party Cats for sure. Although I can not speak personally to the C. longipinnus stimulants--but I will! :D

I use air pumps. NEONCORY uses power heads. I also find that they will frequent areas where there is a good outflow from a filter--more the river flow effect. Most of mine like very much water that tumbles agains a tank side where they will dance up and down the flat side in and near the water or air current. Some are mass egg scatterers and some are individual egg placers. Those type like floating things to place eggs on.

If I had to guess I would guess that they will be scatterers like C. paleatus/peppers, placing masses of clumps of eggs on the tank glass and heater and filter intake--well, everyplace!

Java moss is a very desirable plant for them tied on drift wood.
 
Yeah, i got myself confused when you said air pump. :lol:
I will probably buy 6+ or if they are cheap i'll go for a larger shoal.
I got tonnes of java moss in other tanks so thats no problem.
 
C. longipinnis is a species from Argentina and as such their temperature range is low. Irrespective of any comments about people saying they keep their at higher temperatures, their actual range is 15ºC to 23ºC (59ºF - 73ºF) and will usually not breed at temperatures above 17ºC.

There is also a bit of a dilemma regarding this species and C. paleatus (also from Argentina), in that a few years ago there was a virus infection which almost wiped out the breeding populations of C. paleatus in far eastern fish farms and some of the new stock were almost invariably C. longipinis, although at that time the species had not been describes and was just thought of as being a long dorsal'd C. paleatus. Which in itself means the any C. paleatus being exported from the far east cannot be considered as true species. It will be seen that there are some males with long and some with short dorsal fins all in the same populations.

In both cases the only true C. longipinis and C. paleatus are those coming from Argentina.

Also do not confuse the non natural long finned C. paleatus (All fins are long and straggly) with C. longipinnis, in which only mature males show the greatly extended first two or three soft dorsal fin rays.

Ian
 
Thanks for that Ian.

Definitely got my heart on getting some! I will let you know if i get some and breed them!

Thanks

David
 
I thought this excerpt from PlanetCatfish might interest you. It gives th manner of fertilization with the bronze Cory:

Keep in a shoal of at least 6 individuals - ideal first catfish for a beginner's community aquarium.

Breeding Easily accomplished with captive raised stock. Some colour varieties are more challenging than others. Given the presence of a suitably egg-laden female and a mature male or two, spawning can be triggered by a large, cool water change. Try changing 30-40% of the aquarium water (at 21°C) and bring the temperature down to 16°C. Do this slowly over an hour or two.The fish should respond by spawning in the classic 'T' formation method.

Here, using one of his pectoral fins, the male clamps the female to his side by her barbels and fertilizes a small batch of eggs held within the protective basket formed by her pelvic fins. The adhesive eggs are then placed on plants or aquarium walls and the process repeated. The eggs take 3-4 days to hatch. It is safe to leave well fed parents with the eggs, but some breeders prefer to remove the eggs, or indeed parents, to avoid any temptation of an easy snack.

For the first few days of their life, pre-soaked powdered flake food should be fed to the fry. After the first 3 or 4 days, newly hatched brineshrimp can also be sparingly used to bring on the fishes growth. As the fish grow more and more foods can be offered in line with the size of the developing juveniles. Adult colouration is reached in around nine weeks.

Another blog from PlanetCatfish on spawning C. paleatus (peppers):

It is considered that wild-caught C. paleatus are harder to breed than their tank-raised cousins. The latter commonly spawn in the community aquarium but a breeding tank of as little as 5 gallons will suffice and allow the fry to develop safely. A female and two males is the bare minimum, but more males can be added and some breeders actively recommend this. A period of ''fattening up'' achieved by feeding frozen or live foods followed by both a sharp drop of temperature and influx of fresh water should induce spawning.The female is shown here just prior to egg release. These eggs are held together in a clutch formed by the female's pelvic fins. How the actual fertilization of the eggs takes place is a matter of great debate amongst Corydoras breeders. Either the sperm is released in the water (possibly which the female wafts down the length of her body) and reaches the eggs OR the female ingests the sperm and somehow this passes through her body and is released over the eggs. This internal route is possibly a by-product of the mechanism that allows Corydoras to ''breathe'' air and dissolve it into the bloodstream in the lower gut. Detractors of the latter theory state that the female's mouth is clamped shut in gripping the male or is clamped to the body of the male by his pelvic fins! Whatever the route, it works. The female swims away and deftly ''lays'' the eggs, usually on the aquarium glass, but occasionally on broadleaf plants. Rearing is as for Corydoras similis
 
I don't feel so ignorant now not being sure how the sperm gets to the eggs! :crazy: :lol: :lol:
 
I used to believe the theory that the female Cory swallowed the male sperm and passed it through the gut to be released through her anus and into the ventral pouch formed by her ventral fins and published this theory in the first edition of my "Breeding Corydoradinae catfish" book in 2001. However after observing many many species spawning I have completely changed my opinion, surface it to say the for a sperm to survive the journey through all the enzymes found in the gut as well as the time factor, which, as we know that sperms have a very short period of viability and therefore I am convinced it would not survive.

My theory would take far to long to write here and besides I would not want it joining another site where a lot of my work is already published illegally.

Those of you that have attended my lectures both in the US & UK will no doubt remember my discussion on the subject and my own personal theories as to what actually takes place. Of course in the fulness of time these may also be proven wrong. Now there's a Phd subject if ever there was, any up and coming students want a real challenge.

Ian
 

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