Can You Help Me I.D This Dog?

[Cichlid_Crazy]

Ok Thanks mate

 

[Haych]

i'd say labrador, and if he's hypo, definately labrador!

i actually thought great dane at first from the side.

the cats will get used to him but take time, they will come round eventually, but also tell Diesel off if he chases, you dont want the cat feeling pushed out

 

[Cichlid_Crazy]

I separated them up a bit now...Diesel is in the front room with a stair gate stopping him getting out and the cats have the full rest of the house...they very upset bout it bless em...i put there food on the landing.

At night time I'm going to have to put him in the hall way downstairs tho cos i don't want him chewing my furniture etc...so the cats are going to have to run past him to get through the cat flap.

But my cats usually sleep with me everynight..all 3 of them so maybe they wont even bother and go out during the day when hes in the front room.

Because they are not completely shut away from each other they can still smell each other/hear each other so hopefully that will help long term.

 

[Tolak]

Nice looking dog! Ahhh, kids & stickers, surprised they didn't decorate their new buddy!

Good on you for the snip & chip, both of my guys had that done at 5 months.

You will find a lifetime of info if you Google NILIF, or Nothing In Life Is Free. The idea behind this is that everything is earned. Pack leaders control resources, this is why you will many times see the smaller dog in a group being the top dog, it isn't about size or strength. It is also the key to a comparatively small person having no problem handling a very large dog.

Clicker training is another excellent training tool, taken from dolphin training. The click from a clicker is consistent from person to person, and signifies that a treat has been earned. Get used to having a clicker in your pocket, I keep a length of cord on mine to keep it handy on my wrist. These are cheap little gadgets available at most any pet supply outlet, I have many kicking around the house. Start with a handful of kibble, click & feed one, click & feed one. They associate the click with a treat real quick, feed an entire meal this way if you like.

You have a good start with one of the most important things; sit. This is the basic start for earning anything; food, toys, access to areas, anything & everything. From the beginning explain to everyone involved with the dog the exact meaning of commands, down is very often misunderstood. With my guys down means lie down, off means 4 on the floor, no matter where you might be. Consistency is key, if the smallest kid with a goodie has the dog sit before offering the treat that little kid is controlling resources.

Food is a major resource for most dogs, sounds like yours is no different. Once you have the sit for a treat, you can teach leave it. You put the treat on the floor at a slight distance, if the dog goes for it pick it up, start with sit again. Leave it will soon translate to cats, rabbits, or anything else you don't want them to mess with.

With walking, I always start with if they pull I stop. I'll stand there until they stop pulling and take a step, if there is no pull I'll continue. If they pull I stop. They catch on soon that pulling gets you nowhere, and they focus on you, waiting for that step. Always start consistently with the same foot, which is usually the left foot since a heel position is on the left.

For a real serious puller, or smaller breeds where there is a risk of trachea damage from pulling hard on a collar I use a harness. For hard headed cases (some terriers!) I use a short leash with a harness, a longer one with a pinch collar. The pinch collar is for corrections, when they pull on the harness. Don't be put off by the looks of a pinch collar, put one on your arm in a shop, give it a snap. It is an attention getter more than anything, nothing painful. It's safer than a choke collar, which few people ever use correctly.

With all of these things use a click & treat for a job well done. Also, get the younger kids to understand that the clicker is a tool, not a toy.

If he has lab in him he should be pretty easily trained, I've had terriers for many years, independent thinkers. Sometimes you have to make them think that it is their idea, not yours to do what you want. All dogs go through what can be best described as the terrible twos, just like kids. In these cases, it's a longer leash, you are attached to my belt, and you get constant supervision & training. This often makes tasks take a bit longer, but it is worth the end result. It makes every instance available a training situation.

I am also a huge advocate of crate training. This is the dog's safe place, his den, and works off of the den instinct. There will be times when you won't be home, especially when the dog is younger, where you don't want to risk him getting into things. There will be times when you are home, when activities dictate for the safety of your dog, he needs to be in a safe place. Around here it's usually home improvements, or my son loading more furniture into my house for his anticipated home purchase. Being accustomed to a crate also helps the dog if he ever needs to spend some time at the vet, accidents happen. Crate training is a huge housebreaking asset, taking advantage of a dogs natural aversion to soiling their sleeping place.

I start with a crate just big enough for the dog to stretch out & lie down, being able to turn around. A soft bed, scrap of rug, anything you have or can get to make him comfortable rounds it out. Toss in a treat, let the dog see it get tossed in. He may hesitate at first, this usually doesn't last long. Next, out of eyesight of the dog, toss in a treat. He'll find it, and get used to checking regularly. Don't be surprised if he gets tired of waiting and lies down on his own. Calmly swing the door shut, this generally doesn't make them nervous, as they are in there on their own already. Treat, as long as the dog is calm, and swing the door open. If the dog comes out, toss in a treat close the door, & repeat. They soon associate the crate with a nice place to sleep, goodies appear, and it is, like a kid, their room.

While I would like to second that pic for POTM, taking another look it isn't the pet! I would like to nominate the picture above it, I don't know which I like better, the eyes or the ears!

 

[Haych]

i second crate training, i used it for my dog, stopped chewing, howling etc. also helped the dog feel safe, and my cats feel safe to go passed!

 

[Cichlid_Crazy]

Yeh i discovered this tonight guys http/leerburg.com/dog-cat.htm

I bought a shock/no bark collar from ebay and i'm gonna get my mrs to ask soem breeders she knows if she can borrow a 40" crate.

If not i seen a 42" for £29.99 on ebay with free postage...just dont fancy anymore spend outs before xmas!

So i'm planning on doing this...

Keeping his leash on all the time to keep him under control when needed..

Fittign his anti bark collar.

Puttign him in a crate with a blanket on the top and let the cats roam the house as normal without being bugged. (i'll bring the rabbits in also to do this with them...payback lol!)

When the cats are settled upstairs or out i'll let him out...and obviously he will get his walks (hes had 3 and about 15 roams of the garden today....yet hes still pee'd on my floor about 10 times! lol)

I'm going to keep this up until he can tolerate the cats and not bark at them anymore.

Then the poor little dudes torutre will be over and we will have a happy family and my Cat Bobby can get her cuddles on my lap while im tapping away on this forum without Diesel scaring the crap out of her

I like this plan

Thanks for your help guys

I'll keep you posted on the developments of my naughty dog i kinda have a bias towards the cats because they have been here for years since birth and hes the newcomer...so i feel that he needs to tolerate them...and i dont like seeing my cats upset.

The dog crate will be handy for when my partners mother brings round her 'not very tolerant' staffy also.

Still feel a bit mean doing all this to the lil dude...but it will be worth it.

 

[Haych]

crate training isnt a bad thing, dogs feel safe there, and it can help with toilet training too.

i wouldnt use the lead in the house though. the lead to him should be a sign of something fun to come. something along the lines of a good old shout (single syllable), water spray when hes naughty would be better suited.

and yes, the dog should come last as last in, and dog should also be taught they are the "bottom of the pack"

you feed yourself and kids, then cats/rabbits (with Diesel watching helps) then Diesel last. Making him believe he is the lowest in the ranks, he will behave better.

we had no issues with our dog and cats etc, until we got a cat after him and he believed to be better than her.

 

[Just_Another_One]

he looks soooooo relieved to be out of the shelter...good job for resucing from the shelter. He will be you and your litle girls best friend untill the end Shelter dogs are the best kind

 

[Cichlid_Crazy]

Thanks for the comments guys

Does anybody know a good site where i can get a 42" dog crate cheap? like under £25?

 

[Tolak]

Look at a second hand crate, Craigslist here in the US comes to mind.

Be aware that if you start looking at & posting on any dog forums that there are more opinions on dog training than stars in the sky. Heated debates on a fish forum such as this don't hold a candle to the sparring that occurs in the training section on many dog forums. I guarantee if you post as a new member, and that anti-bark collar is of the shock variety it won't be long before a member or three comes along to shoot it down, soon to be followed by other members who shoot them down. Dog training is extremely varied, dog owners are incredibly passionate.

That being said, the only message a lead sends to my dogs is that I am going to make sure you stay close, no matter what the situation. The important word there is I, I'm going to make all the calls on what occurs. I may decide we are going for a walk, into the yard for some training, or into the living room while the repairman fixes the refrigerator. No matter what the case, the lead means I'm making sure you stay close.

 

[Cichlid_Crazy]

Ah i didnt know the shock collars where a bad thing...i kept finding sites recommending them.

 

[Tolak]

Bad or good is mainly an opinion, as I said, you will get plenty. If the alternatives for a barker are stop barking or ship out obviously the collar is not a bad thing. If other methods have failed, it is an option.

Some training methods work better for a hard dog, others are more suited for a softer or more sensitive dog. Size of the dog often does not play into this, previous situations the dog was in, such as with a rescue without a doubt will. This is why you will often see some really obnoxious small dogs. Their brain works no different than a large dog, the training needs to be the same.

I've always had dogs that are terriers, 20 pounds or less. They get trained no different than a large dog. Back in the day the Koehler method was state of the art, by today's standards it is a harsh system, many training methods bordering on abuse. With advancements in the understanding of dog psychology the positive training methods are mostly used, but you will be at an advantage if you have some knowledge of all. By the older Koehler method the shock collar is no big deal. Look into how ol' Bill trained dogs not to dig, a little shock is nothing.

I've found that teaching speak, which is pretty easy for a barker, is the first step in "no speak" or quiet. You just give the quiet command when the dog isn't barking, they catch on.

Another thing I like to do is teach hand signals along with the verbal command. These work well in a noisy situation, and planning ahead, older dogs often have failing hearing.

 

[Cichlid_Crazy]

I think they are a good idea aslong as its not causing 'pain' if its just a little shock..i think thye will learn quickly.

Its only meant for training anyway...not a permanent thing...i'm to soft to do it to him permanently

 

[Haych]

betterware do a stop bark collar that works on bursts of air, which are 100% humane

 

[Cichlid_Crazy]

The one i just bought doesent seem so bad heres the description.

(I did believe it was the right thing to get tho cos of so many placs recommending them...sorry if i have offended)

Dogs Anti Barking Shock Training Control Collar Trainer

The product is controlled by a microprocessor, distinguishes your dog's bark from other environmental noises and automatically delivers sound and shock stimuli after each bark.
The output level of sound and shock is gradually increased as barking continues, giving your pet plenty of warning before it becomes painful.

At the 1st bark the product applies a short warning tone. If a 2nd bark occurs within 30 seconds a more intense tone is sounded along with a short mild shock. If your dog barks a 3rd time, both the tone and shock become more intense. This pattern is repeated through 5 correction levels. If your dog continues to bark through all 5 levels, the most intense sound and shock are applied after each bark until your dog stops for 30 seconds or more. After 30 seconds of quiet, the product automatically resets to the 1st tone only level of correction. When your dog forgets and bark again, the warning tone reminds your dog without immediately applying painful stimulus.