Can rasbora espei and peacock gudgeons live in a PH of 8.0-8.2?

[Rocky998]

This works for you because you have soft water with presumably low GH/KH so little or no buffering. At least that is what you have previously posted elsewhere. And more recently in another thread you talk about using rainwater. Unfortunately @Rocky998 has water with a very high KH.

I'm thinking about doing gold ring danio or leapord danio instead of lambchop rasboras

 

[Rocky998]

I'm thinking about doing gold ring danio or leapord danio instead of lambchop rasboras

They can live in a PH of 8

 

[itiwhetu]

This works for you because you have soft water with presumably low GH/KH so little or no buffering. At least that is what you have previously posted elsewhere. And more recently in another thread you talk about using rainwater. Unfortunately @Rocky998 has water with a very high KH.

I have lived all around the country keeping fish and with all sorts of water supplies and have always used the same approach and have never had a problem. I have buffered my tanks naturally for the species of fish I want to keep. Everything from Discus to rift lake cichlids all off the same water supply.

 

[Rocky998]

I have lived all around the country keeping fish and with all sorts of water supplies and have always used the same approach and have never had a problem. I have buffered my tanks naturally for the species of fish I want to keep. Everything from Discus to rift lake cichlids all off the same water supply.

but... If you have a KH of 14 and a PH of 8.2 and want to bring it down to 7.0-7.5 would you be doing the same then?

 

[Byron]

I have lived all around the country keeping fish and with all sorts of water supplies and have always used the same approach and have never had a problem. I have buffered my tanks naturally for the species of fish I want to keep. Everything from Discus to rift lake cichlids all off the same water supply.

You do not give us the GH and KH and I am assuming from your various posts that they are relatively low. New Zealand's topography would tend to suggest soft rather than hard water, but without the numbers we have no validation.

And what works for you, or works for me, or works for Colin, or whomever, does not mean it will work for someone else. You will I hope have observed that I am not suggesting my approach, but rather trying to get across to Rocky that this is a complicated issue of water chemistry and biology. I can guarantee that what does work for me would fail utterly for Rocky. The initial parameters, the aquascaping, the fish, and plants...all factor in to create a unique biological system in a given tank.

 

[Byron]

I'm thinking about doing gold ring danio or leapord danio instead of lambchop rasboras

They can live in a PH of 8

Please try to use the proper scientific name when asking about a species, it makes it much clear just what fish you are meaning.

"Leopard danio" I must assume is the variety of Brachydanio rerio, commonly known as Zebra Danio. The "leopard" form is not a distinct species but a variety of B. rerio, which means it needs a longer tank as it is an active swimmer. From SF:

The ‘leopard danio’ is a spotted morph of B. rerio which was described as Brachydanio frankei (Meinken, 1963), but is now generally referred to as B. rerio var. frankei. Its origin was considered something of a mystery for a number of decades, with the most accepted theory being that it was produced via selective breeding, but it is now known to be a spontaneous mutation of the striped form which also occurs in the wild (Spence et al., 2008). There do exist several ornamental strains, however, including a xanthistic ‘golden’ form and a long-finned variety.​

The "gold ring" danio is presumably Brachydanio tinwini. This is a better fit. However, this brings us to the GH issue that was discussed along the way. The softening done by the water authority is an issue. I won't go into all that again, just keep it in mind. Here's SF's data on this species for reference:

Brachydanio tinwini – Gold Ring ‘Danio’ (Danio tinwini) — Seriously Fish

www.seriouslyfish.com

 

[Rocky998]

Please try to use the proper scientific name when asking about a species, it makes it much clear just what fish you are meaning.

"Leopard danio" I must assume is the variety of Brachydanio rerio, commonly known as Zebra Danio. The "leopard" form is not a distinct species but a variety of B. rerio, which means it needs a longer tank as it is an active swimmer. From SF:

The ‘leopard danio’ is a spotted morph of B. rerio which was described as Brachydanio frankei (Meinken, 1963), but is now generally referred to as B. rerio var. frankei. Its origin was considered something of a mystery for a number of decades, with the most accepted theory being that it was produced via selective breeding, but it is now known to be a spontaneous mutation of the striped form which also occurs in the wild (Spence et al., 2008). There do exist several ornamental strains, however, including a xanthistic ‘golden’ form and a long-finned variety.​

The "gold ring" danio is presumably Brachydanio tinwini. This is a better fit. However, this brings us to the GH issue that was discussed along the way. The softening done by the water authority is an issue. I won't go into all that again, just keep it in mind. Here's SF's data on this species for reference:

Brachydanio tinwini – Gold Ring ‘Danio’ (Danio tinwini) — Seriously Fish

www.seriouslyfish.com

My GH is 2-3 and the gold rings can live in an 8 PH... I don't see how its a problem

 

[Byron]

My GH is 2-3 and the gold rings can live in an 8 PH... I don't see how its a problem

The water authority is adding chemicals and salt to lower the GH. This was discussed with Steven and others earlier in this thread.

 

[Rocky998]

I also found another species of danio called a glowlight danio NOT the brand glow fish it's actually called a glowlight danio.

Also, @vanalisa (sorry for the ping) I dont know if you saw my question when I replied to your message and I wasn't sure if you meant that the gudgeons should be ok in the PH I have...

 

[Rocky998]

The water authority is adding chemicals and salt to lower the GH. This was discussed with Steven and others earlier in this thread.

Ok so I dont get any fish... Great... My local pet store keeps them well and so do others that live in the same city... Again, all the chemicals are added in the beginning or a little after. By the time it gets filtered through, its probably all gone or there is such a little amount that it cant even be registered on a test.

 

[Byron]

I also found another species of danio called a glowlight danio NOT the brand glow fish it's actually called a glowlight danio.

Species I assume is Danio choprae, and it is suited to the tank. A group of 10-12, as males are territorial and with a smaller group this can cause issues. However, I do not know about keeping this species with the peacock goby.

My local pet store keeps them well and so do others that live in the same city...

I'm sure this has come up previously in one of your threads if not this present one. You cannot use any store's water as being at all relevant. Most fish species can manage in less than ideal parameters for a short time, and stores hope to sell the fish well within this period. But when the fish is in your aquarium, the parameters are much more important because the fish cannot be expected to manage for very long if parameters are substantially different. Most stores do not waste money and time on separate water conditions for all the fish they carry.

As for others...how do you know the fish are well? None of us can make this assumption unless we provide close to what the species needs. It has to do with the fish's physiology, how it functions and how it is harmed.

 

[Rocky998]

Species I assume is Danio choprae, and it is suited to the tank. A group of 10-12, as males are territorial and with a smaller group this can cause issues. However, I do not know about keeping this species with the peacock goby.



I'm sure this has come up previously in one of your threads if not this present one. You cannot use any store's water as being at all relevant. Most fish species can manage in less than ideal parameters for a short time, and stores hope to sell the fish well within this period. But when the fish is in your aquarium, the parameters are much more important because the fish cannot be expected to manage for very long if parameters are substantially different. Most stores do not waste money and time on separate water conditions for all the fish they carry.

As for others...how do you know the fish are well? None of us can make this assumption unless we provide close to what the species needs. It has to do with the fish's physiology, how it functions and how it is harmed.

Ok, so the glow light danios are good... I know they are good with gudgeons because the gudgeons are little angels... They wouldn't harm a fly... Ok, they may eat a fly... I mean, they wouldnt harm a fish. And the glow light danios are way to small to harm the gudgeons... Although pheromones may do some stress but again, they are very peaceful amd non aggressive fish.

 

[StevenF]

If your pH is being pushed up by your plants then you have dangerously high CO2 levels and that needs to be corrected, for the safety of your fish.

I verified it wasn't that. Yes I do have a CO2 system but it is an inverted bottle system. Thismeans I have a bubble of CO2 gas in in an inverted bottle I am not using a diffuser or or water pump to mix theCO2 with water. My CO2 levels are so low that standard drop checkers will not detect it. Beside if I turned off the CO2 system the PH in the morning started out at about 7 and would climb until lights turn off. The peak PH is determined by light levels and how long the lights are on and plant growth rate.

PLants need more carbon than any other nutrient.So I have concluded that plant are consuming KH converting the carbonates to calcium and magnesium hydroxide.hydroxideshave a much stronger effect on PH then calcium and magnesium carbonate. Once the lights turn off the hydroxides convert back to carbonate and the PH drops back to 7 in about 1 to 2 hours.

At the time I was normally testing my PH in the morning. but on day I decided to check my PH just before the lights turned off I was shocked when I saw a PH of 9. i tried water changes but that didn't work. Next day it was back up to 9 Then I tried dimming my new aquarium light. That worked. Now I periodically check the PH in the morning and just before lights off and adjust might as necessary. Last time I check 7.3 was the peak PH.

 

[itiwhetu]

After having a geography lesson and being told that any of my advice even though it would work for me wouldn't work for you. I now don't think there is any point in contributing to this anymore. I have stated what I would do and will leave it at that. Byron and the crew have it covered and plus you will learn a lot of science along the way. I'm going back to my 150g rebuild.

 

[Rocky998]

I spoke with someone who has the same tap as me and they said they do nothing to their water... Note: this person has a lot of experience and has a few tanks with multiple species.

I do appreciate all the help I've received here and I do know that you all are just trying to help to the best of your abilities.