Brand New To The Hobby

One way to help bring the temperature down is water changes with cooler water. You don't want to shock the fish but they will react well to a slow addition of cooler water. I am saying slow meaning slow enough to get good mixing while it is happening. I do that with my summer tub when outdoor temperatures get too high. Another technique for cooling a tank is as simple as blowing some air across the water's surface. A small fan can do that for you.
 
I'm surprised you haven't been directed to these threads yet;

fish-in cycle
Nitrogen cycle

If your ammonia readings are showing, 30% water changes a day won't touch it, atleast a 50% water change a day is advisable :good:

Need to focus on the health of your fish now, rather than the cycle. You may find that on the odd occasion, 2 water changes a day is need, if readings are very high!

Good luck x
 
Just got back and did a water test immediately !
Readings are nitrate 20 ppm - nitrite 0 ppm - ammonia 0 ppm - hardness 75 ppm -
Chlorine 0 ppm - alkalinity 20ppm - ph 7.2
Just got back from the LFS and they confirmed results.
Also no fish died during my week away! Got a extra daino to make up a pack of 5!
Only question is how often should I be changing my water now with those readings?
And also I was thinking of taking the carbon out of my aquaclear filter and instead adding another
Bio ring pouch. Yeah or nah?
Still can't believe it took one week from nitrite levels as high as 4.0 ppm to 0 ppm :)
Of coarse thanks to all your help!
 
Determining the end of a Fish-In cycle can be difficult sometimes as it can fool you. The signal that you may be at the end is if you get two days of double-zeros (no ammonia, no nitrite) and you haven't changed any water on those two days. If that's the case you can use those two days as the start of your "qualifying week" and just test closely and confirm that it continues to give you the double-zeros the whole week. That allows you to declare yourself cycled, but what does that actually mean? You still have a pair of bacterial colonies that are not fully mature (they will continue to mature out to 6 months and will get even more robust out to the first year) and won't bounce back as quickly from a stocking addition as fully mature filter. But, being cycled, you do have a functioning biofilter and you are eligible to begin small stocking additons (assuming the inch guideline is still allowing you, among other things.) Two or 3 medium small fish (a few more if neon size and smaller or only 2 or one fish if they are larger) with a couple weeks in-between should be your rule-of-thumb as a beginner in your first two years and all the while you should be making notes in your aquarium notebook and getting the feel for what seems to work and not work.

~~waterdrop~~
 
So its been 3 days of 0 ammonia , 0 nitrite, and 20 ppm nitrate readings. Planning on getting a small group of julii cory's for the bottom. My LFS think that 3 would be fine since they act a little rogue sometimes from his perspective in the tank. I told him WD that you suggested 1 fish at a time....and he was fine with it. So I'm going to grab the little guy tomorrow and then his buddies a week later staggered. What do you think? he says these guys only get about an inch and half big. what do you guys think?
Also you guys didn't get back to me on how often should I be changing out my filters..... and should i replace my carbon section in my aquaclear 20 to another bag of bio rings?? Also if I keep my readings steady with 0 0 20 should I be doing weekly water changes?
I've also been testing my water daily with my feedings too!! :good:
 
Good job hillmar! You're only 3 days in to your qualifying week so try to hold off at least until Sat/Sun if you were thinking of adding the first cory this weekend (just to further verify you're not going to get a mini-spike.

I personally agree with the cory addition plan (some might give you a hard time) and I think one at a time with a week is prudent since your biofilter is still extremely young. After the tank is a year old or so your filter system will be fully mature and 2 or 3 of that size would be ok for a single introduction (if you were for some reason stocking, that is.)

The weekly water change is one of the great principles of successful freshwater keeping for beginners. Its not about just the 3 numbers you've been looking at, its more. There are actually hundreds of substances (heavy metal ions, large organic molecules, all sorts of stuff) in a running aquarium ecosystem. We can't afford and wouldn't have the time to test for all of these things but we don't want them or the overall mineral content to build up over time. When water evaporates (as its doing from your aquarium daily) it leaves behind all the mineral salts that came in with the tap water or other things. If you were to just keep adding water, the mineral content would get higher and higher.

The fish have very well-developed systems for separating the mineral content of their cells from the mineral content on their surrounding water, but those systems can only operate effectively within a narrow range. If the water slowly got higher mineral content, the fish's system would slowly track up with it and it would get used to it, but then when you finally performed a water change, the fresh tap water would be much, much lower in mineral content and the fish's mineral balancing system would be overwhelmed and the fish might die.

This is why the regular gravel-clean-water-siphon-out mainenance procedure is so important. The habit we want is for it to be weekly. We all will have weekends when we go on trips and can't do it and that's ok but the overall habit should be the weekly one. Deciding on the actual percentage to change can be somewhat complicated, but often the act of doing a good gravel cleaning will take at least 25 or 30% of the water out and that can be a good determining factor. Holding a steady nitrate(NO3) "trend" (comparison of NO3 readings over many weeks) is the real test. If you found your NO3 was creeping up, you would definately want your water change percentages to be higher.

The weekly water change is also the time when you do other maintenance items get done. You wipe down your inner walls for algae (even if you don't see it) and clean other things (never using soaps or anything like that of course, soaps hurt fish.) Each week I rotate to a different "extra" thing to focus on, like a good cleaning of the tank top or the upper rim or something that needs it.

Filter cleaning and maintenance is a whole 'nother topic :lol: ... Don't do anything to your filters right away hillmar, they still need to have a little more time un-disturbed. Just like the weekly water change, there should be a solid and regular habit extablished for filter maintenance and here in the beginner section we recommend that be first set to one month (or two weeks if that feels too long,) with the understanding that any time you observe reduced flow, you should investigate and potentially clean.

Most filter media never gets replaced, or rarely. Ceramic media like rings can last a lifetime and are just swished out in tank water during the maintenance. Sponges are gently squeezed in old tank water just to get the bulk of the debris out but not to disturb the bacterial colonies too much (the colonies are sometimes visible as a brown stain on the media.) If you have polyfloss or floss pads, those are the exception and do get replaced more often if they have broken down, but often they can go for months before that happens and can be gently squeezed out like sponges.

Eventually, some months from now, you will want to get two mesh bags and some new ceramic rings and start the process you mention of swapping out rings for the carbon. At each succeeding maintenance you take a little bit more carbon out of the carbon bag and add a few more rings to the second ring bag until its all switched over (acually, the 10G is so small, this can be done in two or 3 switchouts.) The Aquaclear will make this stuff easy. The Topfin will be harder since the bacteria will be on those spongy mesh bags I think. I believe when it comes time you will want to cut up that bag material with scissors and stuff the pieces back inside the new replacement filter media unit. This would be out at a year or two I think or whenever the material shows signs of breaking down. Most of the time you will just squeeze it out or swish it in tank water, just like normal sponges. There's more but this hits a lot of the first basics you need to hear.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Thanks again for the tips WD. I'll hold off on getting the first Cory till this weekend! I'll post a picture of the little guy when i get him! :D
 
Well just got back from a new LFS... this one is about 30 minutes away from the one I'm currently going to, but seems to be more knowledgeable then the one I'm currently going to. They also have even a bigger selection then the one I'm currently going to! Also they have a 10 foot shark as there center piece, pretty cool!
But here is the first little guy!
6d64c7a9.jpg


Can't wait till next week when his first friend will appear!

Just checked water condition and getting
0 ammonia , 0 nitrite, 10 nitrate, hardness 75ppm, PH 7.2 and the only number I'm currently worried about is alkalinity 20ppm ( seems kinda low :sad: )
 
Well just got back from a new LFS... this one is about 30 minutes away from the one I'm currently going to, but seems to be more knowledgeable then the one I'm currently going to. They also have even a bigger selection then the one I'm currently going to! Also they have a 10 foot shark as there center piece, pretty cool!
But here is the first little guy!
6d64c7a9.jpg


Can't wait till next week when his first friend will appear!

Just checked water condition and getting
0 ammonia , 0 nitrite, 10 nitrate, hardness 75ppm, PH 7.2 and the only number I'm currently worried about is alkalinity 20ppm ( seems kinda low :sad: )

Nice looking Cory! He looks very healthy!
 
He is a cute cory! :blush:
Im assumin he is a Julli Cory? :X :)

Yeah they have Julli on the receipt but I think he is a fake lol !
I'm going to give it a year and if I get the knack of things, I think I'm going to be upgrading to a 90-140 gallon bow tank. Got my eyes on this big fresh water stingray ..... though I'm sure he is out of my league :lol:
http://www.aquarticles.com/images/Fish%20Stores%20Canada/Aquarium%20Services/p-90%20Stingray.jpg
 
Your stats look fine. I know its not taking it in the lighthearted spirit you were mentioning a dream tank in, but let me take the opportunity to mention that you might want to think twice about bowfronts.. the down side of them is that the lens effect of the bow causes your tank to appear much more shallow to the eye, the opposite of what you'd like usually. A plain old rectangle is better at allowing you to see the full grandeur of a big tank, in my opinion. WD
 
So its been 3 days of 0 ammonia , 0 nitrite, and 20 ppm nitrate readings. Planning on getting a small group of julii cory's for the bottom. My LFS think that 3 would be fine since they act a little rogue sometimes from his perspective in the tank. I told him WD that you suggested 1 fish at a time....and he was fine with it. So I'm going to grab the little guy tomorrow and then his buddies a week later staggered. What do you think? he says these guys only get about an inch and half big. what do you guys think?
Also you guys didn't get back to me on how often should I be changing out my filters..... and should i replace my carbon section in my aquaclear 20 to another bag of bio rings?? Also if I keep my readings steady with 0 0 20 should I be doing weekly water changes?
I've also been testing my water daily with my feedings too!! :good:

You shouldent have to replace your carbon ever not unless you are trying to remove meds or tannis from your tank carbon is not needed, corydoras do best in groups of 5-6, You shouldent have to replace your filter or filter pads ever just clean with tank water every 2-3 weeks if you change filter pads you are pretty much starting cycling again.
 
He is a C trilineatus, they are often sold as C julii but unless you paid more than many of us would for a corydoras it would not be a true julii. The dots joining into swirling patterns on the fish's head is a dead give away. A true julii has distinct and separate dots on the head just like on the body. You are right that the KH and GH of the tank are low but that is not all bad with Corydoras. They come from soft water areas that often have a lower pH and KH. I would certainly not adjust it for those guys.
 
Also watch out for lfs that tries to sell you an internal filter, steering you away from ugf - saying that ugf is a thing of the past.

ugf gives them little profit. Also no need for you to go back to the lfs for sponges etc.
 

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