Betta tail rot--proper treatment??

[a.rehm1]

you can try
Tetra Lifeguard
API Fin and Body Cure
API General Cure
API Melafix
API Bettafix

 

[Newbie283]

You are getting nitrite because the ammonia eating bacteria are making it from the ammonia that the fish excretes. It takes longer for the nitrite eating bacteria to grow, so until you have a full colony of nitrite eaters, nitrite will build up.
Water changes are the best way to keep nitrite low. Prime detoxifies nitrite for a few hours, no more than 36 hours, then the nitrite becomes "undetoxified". Using Prime will keep nitrite 'safe' until the next water change the following day.
Once you find that nitrite is staying at zero, you can go to weekly 50% water changes.

The dose rate for Prime is for the amount of new water not the tank volume, so if you changed 2 gallons, you need 0.2 ml Prime. Adding an extra 1ml is a lot. I know that the website says you can add a 5 x dose of Prime in an emergency, but your nitrite is not high enough for a dose that big. If you must add extra, I would use no more than 0.2 ml for each gallon of new water - ie double the stated dose.



Stress is the cause of finrot, and having nitrite in the water stresses a fish.

Okay, Nugget must be younger or just personally hardier than Mushu I'm still bewildered as to how he made it through his tank cycle with torn fins and had zero issues and I never even tested his water until the tank was already cycled. Anyways, stopped at the pet store and got an algae scrubber (nuggets tank has a thin film of algae growing on the sides of the glass--is that a good sign of a well established tank??) And picked up a backup heater as well. I also got a bottle of top fin "readi start nitrifying bacteria starter" labeled for uncycled tanks, water changes, or when nitrites are present. Tested his water when I got home from work nitrite is back up to .25-.50ppm. I have to run out but when I come back I will do another 50 percent and be careful not to disturb his sand, replaced 2 gallons with prime conditioned tap and will dose his tank with the nitrite bacteria AFTER I add the new water. I have stopped dosing him with Betta fix as I have read mixed reviews on the stuff and am going to try and resolve his fin melt with diligent water care before medicine although the fungus has begun to grow small patches on his body.

 

[Newbie283]

Update on Mushu--
Unfortunately his conditioned worsened even after 3 days of 50% water changes with prime conditioned and nitrifying bacteria supplement I was still getting a constant .25-.50ppm nitrite level which was making it so his fins couldn't heal. The fungus was getting worse , starting to grow patches on his head and body. Yesterday I made the decision to move him into a one gallon quarantine tank with daily 100% changes to give him a chance in a 0 nitrite and ammonia environment. He was bad overnight, just laying around not swimming and I noticed his condition got seemingly worse over night, the fungus seems aggressive. I removed his filter cartridge and with the filter still on to aerate the water I dosed the tank with api fungus cure. Other than to eat he hasn't moved in a week, constantly laying lifeless in his tank with labored breathing. It's been 2 hours since I did a 100%water change and added the medicine and he's been constantly swimming and even spreading his fins out! (They were melted and clamped). Immediately I noticed his discomfort went away so I'm really hoping this fixes him up. He seems to be enjoying the medicated water.

 

[Essjay]

you can try
Tetra Lifeguard
API Fin and Body Cure
API General Cure
API Melafix
API Bettafix

The majority of fish illness is caused by water conditions, so improving those conditions must be the first thing to try.

But looking at that list of medications, none of them are illness specific. if a medication must be used, it should be one that targets the actual condition not a general 'cure all'.
And in particular, Bettafix, Melafix (and Pimafix) should not be used in tanks that contain bettas or gouramis as they contain aromatic oils which interfere with the labyrinth organ. Yes, that does include a product aimed at bettas - just because something is made does not mean it is a good thing.

 

[Newbie283]

Mushu is done with his first 24 hours of medicated water. The box of api fungus care says after 48 hours re dose the water (without a water change so there would be two doses of meds in the same water) and then 48 hours after that do a 25% water change. However since he is in a small one gallon hospital tank with the carbon filter cartridge removed I had worries of his waste building up after 4 days and it would spike the nitrites and just repeat the horrid cycle again so I did a 100% water change and added the same singular dose of medicine to it. Will do the same tomorrow and on the 3rd day do another 100% but double dose the water. Repeat the 4th day then do a 25% with clean untreated water. I will say that his medicine does exactly what it says on the box--rapidly treats fungal and second hand bacteria infections. The white fungus has disappeared and his melted clamped fins are starting to spread back out. He also generally seems to be feeling better swimming around again. I highly recommend treating with this medicine if the case if fin rot is beginning to get severe. I've been doing daily 50% water changes on his main tank with prime and bacteria supplements but still fighting to keep a constant nitrite level down. It is slowly going down, a little less than .25ppm reading 2 hours after water change. Hopefully everything will time just right and when Mushu is done with his medicine and ready to leave his hospital tank, his main tank will finally be fully cycled with 0 nitrites. I will post another update when he is done with his medicine!

Here's a picture of Mushu happily swimming in his medicated hospital tank-- one gallon heated to 80 degrees, barebottom with nothing but his Betta leaf and thermometer. Filter still on but no carbon cartridge
https://ibb.co/ikyimb