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Ask Questions About Cycling

I have a question I probably know the answer to but I'm gonna ask anyway. Started a 29 gallon tank two weeks ago for my nephew who lives with us with some plants from my established 110 gallon and a filter I had on it about two months ago before changing the filter for a bigger one. This is a Marineland canister filter that holds 3 gallons of water and still had most of the old media in it.

I started the cycle 10 days ago with a full dose of ammonia to 3ppm.

Waited four days tested and ammonia .5ppm nitrite .25ppm and Nitrate was showing but not quite 5ppm.

So I did another full dose and waited 4 days again and tested. Ammonia was 0, nitrite was 1ppm and nitrate was between 5 and 10ppm.

I waited one more day and tested yesterday. Ammonia and nitrite were 0ppm and nitrate was again 5-10ppm. I figured it was cycled but wanted to be sure so I dosed another full dose and tested again this morning. I also stupidly told my nephew that we could get fish today after school cause it was cycled.

Well I tested today and Ammonia is 0ppm, Nitrite is .5ppm and Nitrate is not quite 10ppm. It's only been about 19 hours since I dosed ammonia last. pH of this tank is 7.4 because he liked the livebearers. My question is though it may not be completely cycled, would it be safe to get some platys (was planning six) and wait for a week or so to get the rest of fish while testing everyday to ensure good water quality?? I just hate to disappoint him.

Given the circumstances, meaning the established filter media and live plants, you are good to go. I would however do one or two major water changes to remove any trace of ammonia.

Aside from the filter media, the live plants will easily be able to handle the ammonia produced from a few small fish in a 29g tank. If the plants are fast growing, such as floating or stem, and are growing (not dying off), you have no problems whatever the number of fish added.
 
I agree with Byron. The number of fish you are discussing here won't be an issue in a 29 gallon, especially one that's turning over nearly 3 ppm ammonia in 24 hours. Those fish won't create that much ammonia.
 
This is an open thread to ask questions about cycling.

I am cycling my freshwater tank. It has been going for about 1 and 1/2 weeks. My ammonia has stayed the same, but nitrites and nitrates are elevating. Is this normal?
 
yes, you are on track...the ammonia should start dropping soon...nitrites and nitrates rising is a good sign as BB build up....the chart gives a good general idea of what to expect from levels as cycling progresses..just keep following the cycling instructions and you will get there at roughly a month...more or less
cyclingchart2-M.jpg
 
Are you following the method on here https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/

You now need to wait until nitrite is below 1.0. You can add a small dose of ammonia (enough to give a reading of 1 ppm) when you get a reading of zero ammonia, then zero again 2 days later.

The danger is that too much ammonia will make so much nitrite it will stall the cycle. 5 ppm is at the top of the range of most nitrite testers. The tester shows this colour no matter how high the level actually is - yours could be 5 or 10 or even 50 ppm and still show as 5. Following the method in the link means that nitrite can never get high enough to reach stall point.
 
Hey

Currently running cycled biorb with fish but tank is a bit rubbish so have brought a second hand fluval spec.

What's the best way to start off the spec to get it cycled fast? Transfer water from biorb to spec then jam the biorb filter into back of spec to start the filter in the spec?

Cheers
 
Transferring water won't help, I'm afraid, as the bacteria we need live in the biofilm which is tightly bound to surfaces.

The biomedia of a biorb is the rocks on the bottom of the tank. The cartridge contains a sponge and a carbon/zeolite mixture. If you break open this cartridge and put the sponge in the Spec's filter that would help. But if you scatter the rocks on the bottom of the Spec, that would also help - you can't really put them inside the filter.
You could also add some Tetra Safe Start, and get some live plants, as they will help as well.
 
Transferring water won't help, I'm afraid, as the bacteria we need live in the biofilm which is tightly bound to surfaces.

The biomedia of a biorb is the rocks on the bottom of the tank. The cartridge contains a sponge and a carbon/zeolite mixture. If you break open this cartridge and put the sponge in the Spec's filter that would help. But if you scatter the rocks on the bottom of the Spec, that would also help - you can't really put them inside the filter.
You could also add some Tetra Safe Start, and get some live plants, as they will help as well.

So if I was to fill the base of the spec with the rocks from the biorb transfer everything across (I'll transfer water as it will be easy and to temperature) the tank should effectively be ok for the fish as well?

Then over time can I start removing the biorb rocks as the specs filter will as then have the required bacteria ( say after a few weeks)

Cheers
 
If you move the cartridge sponge and rocks, you should be able to move the fish at the same time. Monitor ammonia and nitrite daily and do a water change if either show above zero - if they do, they should go down to zero quite quickly.
 
Hi. New to the forum, and new to aquarium ownership. I have several questions related to cycling.

1st question is about cycling a Fluval Flex (32.5 gal) which I set up on 5/1/20. Set up meaning I added dechlorinated water and decor.

Background: I also have a biOrb Flow (8 gal) which I think I have already cycling. I've been testing and monitoring the water for the last two weeks and it seems to be going ok. When I bought it, it came with a packet called a "biological booster" and I think that might've helped get things going re: cycling. I also left it sitting there after set up for about a month before adding fish (not intentionally, I just didn't have the money to buy fish) and the betta I added three weeks ago now seems fine. I had also added three tetras with the betta, on the advice of what I now understand was an ill-informed PetSmart employee. That didn't go well. I had to remove the tetras quickly, as the four of them didn't get along. I moved the tetras into the Fluval Flex I had just set up, and they died within a few days, quite without warning. This has, rightly I think, made me unsure that the Flex is safe for fish, and, thinking over everything I've now read about cycling and the "booster" that came with the Flow, that it might have to do with the Flex not being cycled.

My question: So, having read over "Cycling Your New Fresh Water Tank: Read This First!" thread, I want to ask where I should start because I'm not really on day 1 and all. The tank's been full of dechlorinated water and decor for about two weeks now, and had three tetras for about three days. (I removed them immediately upon finding them all dead in the morning, so they could have been dead in the water for at most about 6 hours or so.) I have an API Master Testkit already, so I can test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and PH immediately, and I just bought an API GH/KH kit which is on the way. Perhaps after testing the levels I should just start on Day 1 of the directions? Since the tetras died, should I test the water for diseases (somehow)? I don't know how to begin. I would love to have fish in the bigger tank, but I want them to survive, obviously, so I don't mind at all if this takes awhile to set up re: cycle / proper prep.

Side question: There are a little white particles floating in the water. They were they were since I filled the tank and turned the filter on. I don't know what they are. Perhaps they're filter medium? Can I remove them somehow?

2nd question is about the biOrb Flow. It came with a filter that the company says to replace every 4-6 weeks. I should be replacing it about now, on that schedule, but... I've been reading a lot about not changing filters because that would remove "good" bacteria. Perhaps this has something to do with the three different types of filters: chemical, mechanical, biological. Am I removing the mechanical/chemical filter but not removing the biological filter when I take out the thing they say to replace? This Amazon page shows an image of the filter I'll be replacing, if that helps.

Any help with any of the above is appreciated. Thank you.
 
Hi. New to the forum, and new to aquarium ownership. I have several questions related to cycling.

1st question is about cycling a Fluval Flex (32.5 gal) which I set up on 5/1/20. Set up meaning I added dechlorinated water and decor.

Background: I also have a biOrb Flow (8 gal) which I think I have already cycling. I've been testing and monitoring the water for the last two weeks and it seems to be going ok. When I bought it, it came with a packet called a "biological booster" and I think that might've helped get things going re: cycling. I also left it sitting there after set up for about a month before adding fish (not intentionally, I just didn't have the money to buy fish) and the betta I added three weeks ago now seems fine. I had also added three tetras with the betta, on the advice of what I now understand was an ill-informed PetSmart employee. That didn't go well. I had to remove the tetras quickly, as the four of them didn't get along. I moved the tetras into the Fluval Flex I had just set up, and they died within a few days, quite without warning. This has, rightly I think, made me unsure that the Flex is safe for fish, and, thinking over everything I've now read about cycling and the "booster" that came with the Flow, that it might have to do with the Flex not being cycled.

My question: So, having read over "Cycling Your New Fresh Water Tank: Read This First!" thread, I want to ask where I should start because I'm not really on day 1 and all. The tank's been full of dechlorinated water and decor for about two weeks now, and had three tetras for about three days. (I removed them immediately upon finding them all dead in the morning, so they could have been dead in the water for at most about 6 hours or so.) I have an API Master Testkit already, so I can test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and PH immediately, and I just bought an API GH/KH kit which is on the way. Perhaps after testing the levels I should just start on Day 1 of the directions? Since the tetras died, should I test the water for diseases (somehow)? I don't know how to begin. I would love to have fish in the bigger tank, but I want them to survive, obviously, so I don't mind at all if this takes awhile to set up re: cycle / proper prep.

Side question: There are a little white particles floating in the water. They were they were since I filled the tank and turned the filter on. I don't know what they are. Perhaps they're filter medium? Can I remove them somehow?

2nd question is about the biOrb Flow. It came with a filter that the company says to replace every 4-6 weeks. I should be replacing it about now, on that schedule, but... I've been reading a lot about not changing filters because that would remove "good" bacteria. Perhaps this has something to do with the three different types of filters: chemical, mechanical, biological. Am I removing the mechanical/chemical filter but not removing the biological filter when I take out the thing they say to replace? This Amazon page shows an image of the filter I'll be replacing, if that helps.

Any help with any of the above is appreciated. Thank you.
Start on day 1 to cycle the new tank. You need an ammonia source to begin the cycling so very little will have been achieved so far. If the tetras did have an impact it will just process through the cycle a little faster. Don't worry about disease, they are much more likely to have died from ammonia and stress.
Good question about the filter. Keep the sponge, clean it by squeezing it in old tank water. Throw away the black and white granules, add new if you want but they won't be needed once the cycle is established.
Photo of the particles may help but just drain the tank and replace with fresh dechlorinated water to clean it up. The beneficial bacteria are on the sponge and the substrate so you won't lose any with the water.

Can you test the water in the betta tank and post the results so we can help to see how well it is cycled.
 
2nd question is about the biOrb Flow. It came with a filter that the company says to replace every 4-6 weeks. I should be replacing it about now, on that schedule, but... I've been reading a lot about not changing filters because that would remove "good" bacteria. Perhaps this has something to do with the three different types of filters: chemical, mechanical, biological. Am I removing the mechanical/chemical filter but not removing the biological filter when I take out the thing they say to replace? This Amazon page shows an image of the filter I'll be replacing, if that helps.
With biorbs, the rocks on the bottom are the biological filter medium. The filter in biorbs is an undergravel filter using the rocks instead of gravel.
The little box at the bottom is what they say to change and this contains a sponge and carbon. If you do change it regularly there won't be many bacteria in it; alternatively don't change it, just wash it in old tank water taken out at a water change. (Or break open the box, throw away the carbon as it's not needed full time and put some more sponge in that space. If you can get a sponge out it would be easier to squeeze)
 
Hi all

Quick question on cycling. I have a new, 125l second tank that I've just started cycling two days ago with Ammonia. I'm at 3ppm and playing the waiting game. The tank is heavily planted (not sure now if I should have cycledd it before adding the plants or not, but they're now planted in) - should i be doing any water changes for the plants sake during the cycling process or not?

I have read that plants benefit from regular water changes during their own settling in process but didn't this to affect the cycling process...

I'm doing a fishless cycle and in no rush. I have a second, smaller tank and the fish there are happy. The plan is to move them to their new "palace" once it's perfectly balanced. I've not transferred anything from the existing tank to the new tank to speed up the process as I'm in no rush and wanted to start a fresh.

Thanks in advance,

J
 

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