Any nice footage of Lamb chop rasboras?

[rebe]

I think the guide on here that was written by @TwoTankAmin and referenced a lot by @Essjay advises of water change at 3ppm just to ensure it doesn't go much above 3ppm. I need to read that guide proper my self to be honest.

As it's a small QT obviously water changes are fairly easy if you are good on the dechlorinator and (if required) chloramines remover. I think a 50% w/c.

I can definitely do a 50 w/c, that's only about 15 litres. I do have plenty of dechlorinator, at least 300ml of Seachem Prime

 

[rebe]

I hope you are not adding ammonia to this tank.

I'll stop then

 

[rebe]

I agree, this algae is a problem. I hope you are not adding ammonia to this tank. Algae is caused by organics and light. Nitrates indicate high organics but the two are not cause and effect.

I won't add anymore, previously I was getting a bit muddled between fish-less cycles and planted ones. I hope I haven't done something bad or irreversible by adding ammonia in the past?

There is definitely bacteria built up. Will they die without food?

 

[rebe]

I said it before, if there are live plants in the tank do not add ammonia. You cannot add fish if ammonia is above zero (or nitrite either). And do a major water change to lower the nitrate as close to zero as possible.

I agree, this algae is a problem. I hope you are not adding ammonia to this tank. Algae is caused by organics and light. Nitrates indicate high organics but the two are not cause and effect.

I can do a 60-80% water change tomorrow, and an additional one if needed before the fish arrive. I can also try to remove as much of this algae as I can with the gravel vacc.

Do you know which algae this is? Long brown threads, seem to produce bubbles of what I assume is oxygen.

 

[rebe]

I was asking about the ammonia because if it was a pure fishless cycle then it's an issue if ammonia is sat at 0.0 and the fish are not in within 24hrs, but in a planted cycle I am not so sure. I don't know if anyone else can advise tonight, but you might want to consider adding a dose of ammonia, you can always play it safe and add an amount that might get to you to 0.50 or 1.00ppm

Hmm, logically it makes sense to feed the bacteria but I think Byron is advising against that. It would be a shame for any bacteria to die off but if adding ammonia is harmful to the plants

 

[Byron]

I do not want to say much here, because different opinions on this topic can be confusing, and there are some members that know way more than I do on this topic. But I stand by my advice that one should never add ammonia to a tank with live plants.

The photos showing the algae would concern me. As would the plants. I would strive to get the balance worked out (light and nutrients), and eliminate that algae.

 

[rebe]

I do not want to say much here, because different opinions on this topic can be confusing, and there are some members that know way more than I do on this topic. But I stand by my advice that one should never add ammonia to a tank with live plants.

The photos showing the algae would concern me. As would the plants. I would strive to get the balance worked out (light and nutrients), and eliminate that algae.

Just to clarify, the plants concern you or the algae would be a concern to the plants?

Do you have any advice on how to find the right balance between light and nutrients, because I know algae means there is an imbalance but I don't know how to identify which factor to lessen or increase? Would the nitrates be nutrients in this scenario, or would that only be the plant fertiliser?

 

[Byron]

Just to clarify, the plants concern you or the algae would be a concern to the plants?

Do you have any advice on how to find the right balance between light and nutrients, because I know algae means there is an imbalance but I don't know how to identify which factor to lessen or increase? Would the nitrates be nutrients in this scenario, or would that only be the plant fertiliser?

Both plants and the algae concern me. The balance involves light (intensity, spectrum and duration) and the nutrients involve natural occurring ones from fish being fed [not relevant here yet, I know] and water changes. Artificial are the fertilizer(s) we can add to supplement the natural nutrients. The aim is always to benefit the plants and thwart algae. "Problem" algae has many species but always occurs because the balance is out.

It can be difficult to pin-point the problem(s). Reducing the light duration is usually a good starting point, but this assumes we know the intensity and spectrum to be good. Different plants respond to the light differently. If I am not getting my threads mixed up, I believe you earlier mentioned ludwigia failing--I would toss it out and go with what thrives. Your light may not be intense enough for stem plants. Especially with floating plants, and you absolutely want floaters for the fish and for water quality.

Nitrates will not help plants, at least not here. Plants use ammonia/ammonium as their nitrogen, and they do not take up nitrates unless there is sufficient light and all other nutrients, and ammonia/ammonium runs out first. There is almost never the case in low-tech or natural planted tanks.

Is there a plant substrate here? Again, so many similar threads, I get confused.

 

[AlexT]

We know the K rating 6500 if that helps. I think we established that.

 

[Byron]

We know the K rating 6500 if that helps. I think we established that.

Yes, that covers spectrum.

 

[rebe]

Is there a plant substrate here? Again, so many similar threads, I get confused

Yes, there is a thin layer of plant substrate.

As Alex said, K rating of 6500, and the light is 14W.
The lights have only been on a timer for 5 days (6 hours, then upped to 7 hours two days ago). Until then the lights were on pretty randomly. I thought since it was only plants and as long as they had enough light it didn't matter. Though it probably does.

 

[rebe]

I have plans now to do a major water change and remove as much of the algae as I can. Is it fair to say this could be brown hair algae, like in this article?

 

[Byron]

Yes, there is a thin layer of plant substrate.

As Alex said, K rating of 6500, and the light is 14W.
The lights have only been on a timer for 5 days (6 hours, then upped to 7 hours two days ago). Until then the lights were on pretty randomly. I thought since it was only plants and as long as they had enough light it didn't matter. Though it probably does.

I know nothing of the plant substrate, but it does seem to have some effect on the water. They say it does not encourage algae, but ho do we know that it doesn't. Anyway, previous suggestion remains, do not add ammonia, do water changes to get the nitrate down. On nitrates, have you tested the tap water on its own? It can have nitrate, and you want to know this.

 

[rebe]

I know nothing of the plant substrate, but it does seem to have some effect on the water. They say it does not encourage algae, but ho do we know that it doesn't. Anyway, previous suggestion remains, do not add ammonia, do water changes to get the nitrate down. On nitrates, have you tested the tap water on its own? It can have nitrate, and you want to know this.

I keep forgetting to set some tap water aside to out-gas it. If i tested some now without letting it sit, would the test be any good? I'm happy to test it now before I log off for the night

 

[rebe]

If I am not getting my threads mixed up, I believe you earlier mentioned ludwigia failing--I would toss it out and go with what thrives. Your light may not be intense enough for stem plants. Especially with floating plants, and you absolutely want floaters for the fish and for water quality.

I don't know if failing is the stage it is at. I just noticed the red fading ever so slightly since the lights were on the timer. I don't have much experience with plants but they don't seem to be dying just yet