African Biotype Tank

Ace Of Spades

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Ok just researching really but been looking up on Congo Tetra and Ropefish which are both from Africa I think, and was thinking of what a biotype would be like. How many litres would the tank have to be, would I have to stimulate high flow for the tetra like the river. And what "centerpiece" fish could I add, I was thinking either a Ctenopa (sp?) or Kribs...

What you think..?
 
have a cpl possibilities-Anne
African River
West and Central Africa are full of rivers. Within each of these river systems are
numerous biotopes -- this description will focus on species found in slow-moving
sections and side streams.
WATER:
pH 6.9-7.2,
3-8 dH,
temp;75-81F (24-27 C)
TANK:
The tank should be furnished with wood for hiding places, and fine gravel or sand for a substrate.
The lighting should be muted, and the water should have a slight current.
PLANTS:
Bolbitis heudelotii , Anubias, Vallisneria, Eleocharis.
FISH:
African tetras, Mormyrids,African Knifefish, African Butterfly fish,
Synodontis, Hemichromis, Pelvicachromis,

African Swamp
The waters support a variety of species and vigorous plant growth making it an ideal subject for a biotope aquarium.
Reedy plants line the shores of waterwaysWATER:
pH 7.2-7.8,
2-8 dH, 7
Temp:70-75F(21-24 C)
TANK:
The tank should have fine gravel, sand, or clay for a substrate.
Dense vegetation and floating plants help recreate the natural setting.
Use submerged wood to provide hiding places.
The lighting should be bright and the water should be clear.
PLANTS:
Bolbitis heudelotii, Ammannia, Marsilea, Eleocharis, Anubias, Nymphaea, Water
Lettuce
*FISH:
Mormyrids, African tetras, barbs, spiny eels, Haplochromines, Tilapia, Hemichromis, Synodontis,
 
have a cpl possibilities-Anne
African River
West and Central Africa are full of rivers. Within each of these river systems are
numerous biotopes -- this description will focus on species found in slow-moving
sections and side streams.
WATER:
pH 6.9-7.2,
3-8 dH,
temp;75-81F (24-27 C)
TANK:
The tank should be furnished with wood for hiding places, and fine gravel or sand for a substrate.
The lighting should be muted, and the water should have a slight current.
PLANTS:
Bolbitis heudelotii , Anubias, Vallisneria, Eleocharis.
FISH:
African tetras, Mormyrids,African Knifefish, African Butterfly fish,
Synodontis, Hemichromis, Pelvicachromis,

African Swamp
The waters support a variety of species and vigorous plant growth making it an ideal subject for a biotope aquarium.
Reedy plants line the shores of waterwaysWATER:
pH 7.2-7.8,
2-8 dH, 7
Temp:70-75F(21-24 C)
TANK:
The tank should have fine gravel, sand, or clay for a substrate.
Dense vegetation and floating plants help recreate the natural setting.
Use submerged wood to provide hiding places.
The lighting should be bright and the water should be clear.
PLANTS:
Bolbitis heudelotii, Ammannia, Marsilea, Eleocharis, Anubias, Nymphaea, Water
Lettuce
*FISH:
Mormyrids, African tetras, barbs, spiny eels, Haplochromines, Tilapia, Hemichromis, Synodontis,

Thanks for info mate

I would like to incorperate the reedfish in there, would that be possible?
 
To be honest, I don't recommend ropefish for "regular" tanks -- they escape too easily. They're best maintained in half-filled tanks so that they can't push themselves out any cracks. It seems to be the fate of most specimens to end up either living inside the filter (as mine seemed to, in the trickle filter!) or else dried up on the carpet.

Congo tetras are great with Ctenopoma and Microctenopoma, but avoid the more aggressive species like C. multispine. I'd go with either Ctenopoma acutirostre, Ctenopoma ocellatum or maybe Ctenopoma kingsleyae if you have the space (this latter species is a bit snappy in confined spaces). Microctenopoma fasciolatum is even better if you can find it, being small and very outgoing, almost gourami-like.

Do also consider catfish; there are dozens of great Synodontis species suitable for large community tanks, such as S. decorus and S. eupterus, that don't work well when kept with aggressive fish. I was up at Maidenhead Aquatics in Wembley the other day and they had some of both these species, full grown, returned by people who'd been keeping them with neons and guppies and such. While predatory, these Synodontis are completely peaceful towards medium-sized tankmates. They have long fins and tend to get nipped by barbs and cichlids, but bichirs, climbing perch and Congo tetras would be ideal.

Cheers, Neale
 
To be honest, I don't recommend ropefish for "regular" tanks -- they escape too easily. They're best maintained in half-filled tanks so that they can't push themselves out any cracks. It seems to be the fate of most specimens to end up either living inside the filter (as mine seemed to, in the trickle filter!) or else dried up on the carpet.

Congo tetras are great with Ctenopoma and Microctenopoma, but avoid the more aggressive species like C. multispine. I'd go with either Ctenopoma acutirostre, Ctenopoma ocellatum or maybe Ctenopoma kingsleyae if you have the space (this latter species is a bit snappy in confined spaces). Microctenopoma fasciolatum is even better if you can find it, being small and very outgoing, almost gourami-like.

Do also consider catfish; there are dozens of great Synodontis species suitable for large community tanks, such as S. decorus and S. eupterus, that don't work well when kept with aggressive fish. I was up at Maidenhead Aquatics in Wembley the other day and they had some of both these species, full grown, returned by people who'd been keeping them with neons and guppies and such. While predatory, these Synodontis are completely peaceful towards medium-sized tankmates. They have long fins and tend to get nipped by barbs and cichlids, but bichirs, climbing perch and Congo tetras would be ideal.

Cheers, Neale

Dont P.sengulas come from the congo aswell? What Birchir would you recommend as I would like a fish similar to the reedfish and Sengal Birchir are easy to get hold of. Thanks for all the information there, I dont really like large catfish as such but a tank with a Ctenopoma, Congo Tetra as shoaling fish and Birchir as bottom dweller sounds awesome.

What size tank would you recommend, atm I have a 48"x12"(wide)x15", Would I need to upgrade that?

Edit:
Ctenopoma acutirostre - Are these expensive / hard to come by and do they do well with their own kind. As two to a tank?, was thinking maybe Nandus Nandus but they are not african right?
 
I have no idea what the precise range of the Senegal bichir is; you'll need to check Fishbase for that! Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about what particular rivers have -- concentrate on evoking the "feel" of a habitat, and choose the best species for that, even if it comes from the next river system along! Who'll know? It's the plants that really make the difference. A few months ago I was answering some similar questions on WetWebMedia for an American aquarist. He's since set up a stunning tank, and you can see a picture here. The Anubias and Bolbitis really make it an identifiably African scene while helping to evoke a dark, forest river image.

For general community tank purposes, go with either the Senegal bichir or the fish traded as the marbled bichir Polypterus palmas (likely one of a number of rather similar species). Both are tolerant and not particularly predatory, feeding primarily on invertebrates in the wild. They both have a good track record of being hardy and easy to maintain.

The tank you have should be fine for any of these fish. Do add a good canister filter or powerhead to beef up the water flow though; Congo tetras love a decent water current, especially in medium-sized rather than big aquaria. I'd be looking for 8-10 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour.

Ctenopoma acutirostre is commonly traded, though sometimes under other names, such as leopard bush-fish or African leaffish. It's much better than any other leaffish, being easy to keep and willing to take frozen foods immediately. I kept one for at least ten years on mostly bloodworms with occasional chunks of prawn and live earthworm. Peaceful, hardy, doesn't get too big (about 15 cm in captivity).

Cheers, Neale
 
I have no idea what the precise range of the Senegal bichir is; you'll need to check Fishbase for that! Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about what particular rivers have -- concentrate on evoking the "feel" of a habitat, and choose the best species for that, even if it comes from the next river system along! Who'll know? It's the plants that really make the difference. A few months ago I was answering some similar questions on WetWebMedia for an American aquarist. He's since set up a stunning tank, and you can see a picture here. The Anubias and Bolbitis really make it an identifiably African scene while helping to evoke a dark, forest river image.

For general community tank purposes, go with either the Senegal bichir or the fish traded as the marbled bichir Polypterus palmas (likely one of a number of rather similar species). Both are tolerant and not particularly predatory, feeding primarily on invertebrates in the wild. They both have a good track record of being hardy and easy to maintain.

The tank you have should be fine for any of these fish. Do add a good canister filter or powerhead to beef up the water flow though; Congo tetras love a decent water current, especially in medium-sized rather than big aquaria. I'd be looking for 8-10 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour.

Ctenopoma acutirostre is commonly traded, though sometimes under other names, such as leopard bush-fish or African leaffish. It's much better than any other leaffish, being easy to keep and willing to take frozen foods immediately. I kept one for at least ten years on mostly bloodworms with occasional chunks of prawn and live earthworm. Peaceful, hardy, doesn't get too big (about 15 cm in captivity).

Cheers, Neale

Wow you really are like a book of information lol :D, Can I buy you?

All sounds good then, just have to wait for my paycheck :p and then I will get 1/2 Ctenpoma Acutirostre, 8-10 Congo and 1 Sengal. Thanks so much

P.s Looking at the American tank now thanks

Edit:
His tank is stunning, one more question is there anyway incorperating a Elephant nose? just 1..
 
I think I will upgrade the tank from 12" to 15" wide so it leave more space for the Sengal and would better suit the congo's...
 
Just looked at that page with the African tank... :drool:

I just have one question for anyone that can answer it: How do you use peat for substrate? I have a huge bag of it for my scorpion terrarium and it's very powdery stuff. I was wondering how you could use it without the tank going cloudy? Washing it?

Anyway, just curious. Looks great and I'm glad you are thinking of going African oddball instead of cichlid. :p
 
Peat is great for a substrate -- provided you only have tiny fish, and they don't swim on the bottom! It's suitable for tanks with things like neons, glowlights and annual killifish. But nothing bigger than those. Definitely not tanks with catfish!

In short, you soak it, and then after doing this for a few days, throw away any bits that refuse to sink however much you squeeze and stir them. Assuming the water current in the tank is gentle, the peat will stay in place on the bottom of the tank.

Because peat is (generally) not a sustainable resource in terms of environmentalism, there's thankfully a move away from the stuff. Coconut fibre (coir) works fine in aquaria, but with one caveat: it doesn't substantially affect pH or soften the water, so while decorative, it isn't a water conditioner like real peat. Some coir is apparently rinsed in saltwater where produced so may contain traces of sea salt. This is unlikely to cause any problems in the aquarium because of the sheer volume of water present, but does sometimes limit its use as a potting medium with salt-sensitive plants such as carnivorous plants.

Cheers, Neale
 
Peat is great for a substrate -- provided you only have tiny fish, and they don't swim on the bottom! It's suitable for tanks with things like neons, glowlights and annual killifish. But nothing bigger than those. Definitely not tanks with catfish!

In short, you soak it, and then after doing this for a few days, throw away any bits that refuse to sink however much you squeeze and stir them. Assuming the water current in the tank is gentle, the peat will stay in place on the bottom of the tank.

Because peat is (generally) not a sustainable resource in terms of environmentalism, there's thankfully a move away from the stuff. Coconut fibre (coir) works fine in aquaria, but with one caveat: it doesn't substantially affect pH or soften the water, so while decorative, it isn't a water conditioner like real peat. Some coir is apparently rinsed in saltwater where produced so may contain traces of sea salt. This is unlikely to cause any problems in the aquarium because of the sheer volume of water present, but does sometimes limit its use as a potting medium with salt-sensitive plants such as carnivorous plants.

Cheers, Neale

Neale would ctenapoma ansorgii be ok instead of the other ones, Any info on them like how big they grow?
 
Microctenopoma ansorgii is suitable for community tanks -- but only with very small, peaceful tankmates, such as cardinal tetras or marbled hatchetfish. It's small (8 cm) and very, very shy. It's also a very slow feeder. I have kept these and certainly agree with the view that they're highly attractive fish in breeding condition, but they aren't good fish for boisterous tanks. Much better to set up a thickly planted tank just for them, and maybe add a few, docile ditherfish as companions. Apart from their social behaviour, they're quite hardy and easy to keep, comparable to the average dwarf cichlid. If you can keep and breed Apistogramma for example, you'll be fine with these.

Cheers, Neale

Neale would ctenapoma ansorgii be ok instead of the other ones, Any info on them like how big they grow?
 
Microctenopoma ansorgii is suitable for community tanks -- but only with very small, peaceful tankmates, such as cardinal tetras or marbled hatchetfish. It's small (8 cm) and very, very shy. It's also a very slow feeder. I have kept these and certainly agree with the view that they're highly attractive fish in breeding condition, but they aren't good fish for boisterous tanks. Much better to set up a thickly planted tank just for them, and maybe add a few, docile ditherfish as companions. Apart from their social behaviour, they're quite hardy and easy to keep, comparable to the average dwarf cichlid. If you can keep and breed Apistogramma for example, you'll be fine with these.

Cheers, Neale

Neale would ctenapoma ansorgii be ok instead of the other ones, Any info on them like how big they grow?

Ahh ok mate, they do look stunning but I think ill go with the Spotted Climbing Perch instead, as you said the ctenapoma ansorgii would get small and thinking will eventually be prey for the Bichir right?. Oh and would the elephant nose be ok in there, I know they dont like their own species and id have to keep it to just 1, but what do you think?
 
Ctenopoma acutirostre is a good companion for small bichirs.

Honestly, I'd recommend avoiding mormyrids until you've read up on precisely what they need, at which point you'll be able to decide whether you're up for keeping them. The main problem is feeding them, as they simply don't compete with any other bottom feeder, though bichirs might be okay. Another problem is their extreme sensitivity to medications widely used to treat finrot, whitespot, etc. The overwhelming majority of specimens die quite soon after purchase. That said, if you're able to provide good water quality and make sure they get regular feedings of bloodworms and the like, they're far from impossible to maintain. They're considered "intelligent" fish even by scientists, and (as far as I know) are the only group of fish for which true play behaviour has been observed. The small schooling species Pollimyrus spp. (called "baby whales" in the trade) are perhaps more fun than the larger and distinctly territorial (under aquarium conditions) species traded as the elephantnose (Gnathonemus petersi). This latter is a schooling fish in the wild, and consequently rather shy when kept alone in the aquarium. But you need a group of 6+ specimens to have any chance of avoiding bullying.

Cheers, Neale

Ahh ok mate, they do look stunning but I think ill go with the Spotted Climbing Perch instead, as you said the ctenapoma ansorgii would get small and thinking will eventually be prey for the Bichir right?. Oh and would the elephant nose be ok in there, I know they dont like their own species and id have to keep it to just 1, but what do you think?
 
Ctenopoma acutirostre is a good companion for small bichirs.

Honestly, I'd recommend avoiding mormyrids until you've read up on precisely what they need, at which point you'll be able to decide whether you're up for keeping them. The main problem is feeding them, as they simply don't compete with any other bottom feeder, though bichirs might be okay. Another problem is their extreme sensitivity to medications widely used to treat finrot, whitespot, etc. The overwhelming majority of specimens die quite soon after purchase. That said, if you're able to provide good water quality and make sure they get regular feedings of bloodworms and the like, they're far from impossible to maintain. They're considered "intelligent" fish even by scientists, and (as far as I know) are the only group of fish for which true play behaviour has been observed. The small schooling species Pollimyrus spp. (called "baby whales" in the trade) are perhaps more fun than the larger and distinctly territorial (under aquarium conditions) species traded as the elephantnose (Gnathonemus petersi). This latter is a schooling fish in the wild, and consequently rather shy when kept alone in the aquarium. But you need a group of 6+ specimens to have any chance of avoiding bullying.

Cheers, Neale

Ahh ok mate, they do look stunning but I think ill go with the Spotted Climbing Perch instead, as you said the ctenapoma ansorgii would get small and thinking will eventually be prey for the Bichir right?. Oh and would the elephant nose be ok in there, I know they dont like their own species and id have to keep it to just 1, but what do you think?

Ahh ok mate I understand, Ive been reading up on them and I read the bit about the scientists actually thinking they are one of the smartest fish species. I understand I will have to wait, I dont plan on getting them all straight away. Was thinking of adding the congo first, then the ctenopoma, then senegal then maybe waiting for the Elephants nose. Ive heard these can be sensitive and you backing it up has just confirmed it really, the tank is about 6/7 months old so is the filter so the filter is matured but it only has a tetratec EX600 on there. And I want to add an addtional filter (tetratec Ex1200) before I even think of getting a sensitive fish like that.

Many Thanks as always
Ace
 

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