About to stock 45 gallon after LONG fishless cycle! Looking for advice

[steelo]

Hi everyone, after a LONG 3 month period of fishless cycling I am about ready for fish. I am told, based on water parameters that I have moderately hard water. The PH seems to hold steady at between 7.6-8.


I am wondering what fish would play well together in the list below! I’d like to have a variety of active/placid fish, top, middle and bottom swimmers to make the aquarium look full. Most importantly, I want to make sure they all get along and live happily.


Could anyone tell me if any of these wouldn’t do well together. I've also included my water parameters (per my water companies website) to make sure the fish are compatible with the water conditions. Thanks!


Scissortail rasbora

Black molly

Glow light tetra

Zebra danio

Black neon tetra

White cloud minnow

Bloodfin tetra

Mickey mouse/gold twinbar/sunburst platy

Alkalinity leaving the treatment plant 80.4 mg/L
Calcium leaving the treatment plant 36.2 mg/L
Chloride leaving the treatment plant 27.3 mg/L
SMCL = 250 mg/L
Copper [90th percentile result] in the distribution system 0.147 mg/L
Type of disinfection NA Chloramines
Disinfectant residual leaving the treatment plant 3.25 mg/L
Disinfectant residual in the distribution system 2.3 mg/L MRDL = 4.0 mg/L
Flouride .61
Iron Not detected
Lead Not detected
Magnesium 9mg/L
Manganese Not detected
Nitrate .12-.88mg/L
ph 7.3
Sodium 15.4 mg/L
Sulfate 37 mg/L
Total dissolved solids 220.7 mg/L

 

[Byron]

The black molly is not going to do well due to the water GH which would need to be higher than moderately hard (though this is a subjective term and without the actual number an assumption). Platies might be OK, but again the number for GH would help.

Scissortail rasbora (Rasbora trilineata) are largish fish (attaining 6 inches/15 cm) that need more space and might eat smaller fish.

Bloodfin tetra (Aphyocharax anisitsi) are fin nippers so any sedate or long-fin fish will be targets; all species in this genus have this behavioural trait to some degree, and some of them can be downright aggressive at times.

The Zebra danio and white clouds are active swimmers, and no mention is made of the tank dimensions, but if this 45g tank is no less than 3 feet (90 cm) in length this should be OK. These two also need cooler water than some tropicals, low 70's F (22-24 C). Just keep that in mind when considering other species. Cories for the substrate level would be fine here.

 

[steelo]

The black molly is not going to do well due to the water GH which would need to be higher than moderately hard (though this is a subjective term and without the actual number an assumption). Platies might be OK, but again the number for GH would help.

Scissortail rasbora (Rasbora trilineata) are largish fish (attaining 6 inches/15 cm) that need more space and might eat smaller fish.

Bloodfin tetra (Aphyocharax anisitsi) are fin nippers so any sedate or long-fin fish will be targets; all species in this genus have this behavioural trait to some degree, and some of them can be downright aggressive at times.

The Zebra danio and white clouds are active swimmers, and no mention is made of the tank dimensions, but if this 45g tank is no less than 3 feet (90 cm) in length this should be OK. These two also need cooler water than some tropicals, low 70's F (22-24 C). Just keep that in mind when considering other species. Cories for the substrate level would be fine here.

Thanks Byron...

The tank definitely is about 3-4 ft in length...I never realized that scissortails got so large! My dad had some when I was growing up in a 20 gallon tank and some got a little large but not over 3-4"

I really enjoy tiger barbs, but I understand they are aggressive fish that like to nip. My favorite aquarium fish are neon/cardinal tetras, but they seem to be an extremely delicate fish that require perfect water parameters and I've never had luck keeping them healthy. Zebra danios and white cloud danios seem to be relatively hardy fish and are fun to watch chase each other. Another thing I forgot to mention is I'm using blue gravel, which I'm realizing is a rookie mistake because it doesn't make anything stand out. I wish I had gone for a darker color so the fish 'pop' I know after a tank is cycled you can just 'throw' everything in there at once, but I'm going to introduce 2 varieties at a time. My wife really likes the glo-fish, but they certainly don't look natural to anything really...

 

[Essjay]

Calcium leaving the treatment plant 36.2 mg/L

To my way of thinking, this is not moderately hard but quite soft. 36.2 mg/l calcium converts to 5.1 dH and 90.4 ppm.

 

[Byron]

The tank definitely is about 3-4 ft in length...I never realized that scissortails got so large! My dad had some when I was growing up in a 20 gallon tank and some got a little large but not over 3-4"

There is quite a difference to the fish between 3 and 4 feet so you should measure this to be certain before considering fish.

When fish are kept in too small a space they are detrimentally impacted permanently. The fact that they did not grow to their normal mature size indicates internal problems. They would not have lived a normal lifespan for the species either. Even at 3 inches, this species would be seriously impeded in a 20g tank.

I really enjoy tiger barbs, but I understand they are aggressive fish that like to nip.

Kept in a group of 12+, Tiger Barbs can be less aggressive to each other, but they will always be inflamed by sedate fish or fish with long fins. So tankmates must be carefully selected. A better barb option is the Black Ruby Barb; it has a similar vertical bar patterning along with the ruby red anterior on males, but this is a peaceful fish (for a barb anyway). Still cannot be with sedate fish though.

Another thing I forgot to mention is I'm using blue gravel, which I'm realizing is a rookie mistake because it doesn't make anything stand out. I wish I had gone for a darker color so the fish 'pop'

Now is the time to change the substrate if you want to, and I certainly agree that blue or similar colours will be less desirable. A neutral mix of fine gravel or sand works best, and fish will be less stressed over it. Some fish must have sand, others are OK with not too large gravel. In both cases you can purchase very inexpensive substrate material like play sand for sand or a small-grain gravel from a landscape supply.

 

[steelo]

There is quite a difference to the fish between 3 and 4 feet so you should measure this to be certain before considering fish.

When fish are kept in too small a space they are detrimentally impacted permanently. The fact that they did not grow to their normal mature size indicates internal problems. They would not have lived a normal lifespan for the species either. Even at 3 inches, this species would be seriously impeded in a 20g tank.



Kept in a group of 12+, Tiger Barbs can be less aggressive to each other, but they will always be inflamed by sedate fish or fish with long fins. So tankmates must be carefully selected. A better barb option is the Black Ruby Barb; it has a similar vertical bar patterning along with the ruby red anterior on males, but this is a peaceful fish (for a barb anyway). Still cannot be with sedate fish though.



Now is the time to change the substrate if you want to, and I certainly agree that blue or similar colours will be less desirable. A neutral mix of fine gravel or sand works best, and fish will be less stressed over it. Some fish must have sand, others are OK with not too large gravel. In both cases you can purchase very inexpensive substrate material like play sand for sand or a small-grain gravel from a landscape supply.

This is very difficult...I really do like the white cloud/zebra danios but don't want to limit what can go with them because of temperature...

 

[Byron]

This is very difficult...I really do like the white cloud/zebra danios but don't want to limit what can go with them because of temperature...

There is a lot to consider when dealing with a community aquarium. Each species of freshwater fish has evolved to function in a very specific environment; environment includes water parameters (GH, pH temperature); water flow (the filter in the aquarium provides this) from strong current to basically no current at all; aquascape (wood, rock, substrate material, plants); numbers of the species; other species.

I just spotted something about pH when re-reading this thread...the water authority gave 7.3 and you indicated 7.6 to 8. What is the pH of the tap water? Remember to out-gas CO2 from tap water before testing pH--you can briskly agitate thee water or let it sit out 24 hours.

 

[steelo]

There is a lot to consider when dealing with a community aquarium. Each species of freshwater fish has evolved to function in a very specific environment; environment includes water parameters (GH, pH temperature); water flow (the filter in the aquarium provides this) from strong current to basically no current at all; aquascape (wood, rock, substrate material, plants); numbers of the species; other species.

I just spotted something about pH when re-reading this thread...the water authority gave 7.3 and you indicated 7.6 to 8. What is the pH of the tap water? Remember to out-gas CO2 from tap water before testing pH--you can briskly agitate thee water or let it sit out 24 hours.

I haven't tested the water straight out of the tap myself, but my aquarium water (which has been cycling for 3 months) has roughly been between 7.6-8. I am due for a huge water change before I add fish so I'll test it again right before I introduce anything.

 

[Byron]

I haven't tested the water straight out of the tap myself, but my aquarium water (which has been cycling for 3 months) has roughly been between 7.6-8. I am due for a huge water change before I add fish so I'll test it again right before I introduce anything.

When the water in an aquarium increases in pH as it may be doing here, that could mean there is something calcareous in the tank that is slowly dissolving minerals (calcium and magnesium primarily) into the water. It is normal for water in an aquarium with fish to become acidic due to the breakdown of organics, and this can be offset or not depending upon the fish species. So you should find out the tap water pH for comparison.

 

[steelo]

When the water in an aquarium increases in pH as it may be doing here, that could mean there is something calcareous in the tank that is slowly dissolving minerals (calcium and magnesium primarily) into the water. It is normal for water in an aquarium with fish to become acidic due to the breakdown of organics, and this can be offset or not depending upon the fish species. So you should find out the tap water pH for comparison.

Just retested the aquarium and tap water. Tap water is 7.4, aquarium is 7.6 (aquarium water is more of a bright blue on the API test than the tap)

 

[Byron]

Just retested the aquarium and tap water. Tap water is 7.4, aquarium is 7.6 (aquarium water is more of a bright blue on the API test than the tap)

That's not an issue. If it had been more like 7.3 tap and 8.0 tank, something would be causing it. But a difference of 2 or 3 decimal places is not an issue.

 

[steelo]

That's not an issue. If it had been more like 7.3 tap and 8.0 tank, something would be causing it. But a difference of 2 or 3 decimal places is not an issue.

Thanks, I figured it had to do with the cycling process. I know that if it goes much under 7.0, it can cause the cycle to crash so I've kept a pretty close eye on it. I've read a lot about 'water buffers' but still don't understand what that means in terms of cycling.

 

[steelo]

That's not an issue. If it had been more like 7.3 tap and 8.0 tank, something would be causing it. But a difference of 2 or 3 decimal places is not an issue.

I think I'm going to get a pair of Scissortail rasporas and 4 Sunburst platys tonight. Do you see any issues with these?

 

[Byron]

I think I'm going to get a pair of Scissortail rasporas and 4 Sunburst platys tonight. Do you see any issues with these?

Yes there are issues with both fish. The scissortail rasbora, as I have already detailed (post #2)--this tank is not large enough for this species, plus it must have a group of six or more since it is a shoaling species.

Platy are livebearers and these fish need moderately hard or harder water. Your water is soft (see post #4 by essjay). Livebearers will be unhealthy and slowly die in soft water.