Search results

This is nothing new. Inland Aquatics created the algal turf scrubber decades ago. For a while they were all the rage. But even they never considered them a miracle cure for anything. They still run refugia. It will not eliminate all phosphates. Depending on the system, it may not obviate the...

If the single one you have is a female, and it is most likely the case, then they can be extremely difficult to pair. I had zero luck pairing mine -- started as 2, it killed off the other, then proceeded to kill off every single clown I added. Your plan to add both to a new tank will have...

That's a flushing problem. Your durso should be larger than the bulkhead, reduce it down right at the bulkhead. That'll solve a lot of the problem

Mmmm, I don't think so. There's going to be a lot of matter, dead stuff, debris decaying or falling off the newly-added rock into your system. 50% would be a high load of unwanted yuck.

Enough to gently tumble the media on the top but not to cause it to violently tumble.

Many studies done on the ingredients in Kick-Ich and related products. All those tests found no effect on crypt at any stage of the life cycle even at triple the dose recommended on the bottle. I have had luck with medications that both repel the parasite and protect the fish: mixing a frozen...

Is the drain on the bottom of the tank, or on the back/side? I ask, because my frag and fuge tanks are drilled on the back and side, respectively. And I can tell you that IF the bubbles build up, and they will, they can block the drain and cause a flood. This invariably happens at 1am or so...

Hey Fletch ... the Caribsea Aragalive isn't "totally" dead, in the sense that it does have the live bacteria. But it doesn't have the critters, that's for sure.

Read the "pinned" threads at the top of this forum (Marine and Reef Chit Chat). Esp the ones by Great Lakes.

You can do this, but only if the rock you add subsequently is from established systems. You don't want to add uncured or partially cured rock (meaning, anything from a store or online vendor) or you'll be essentially starting over with the cycle.

I tried 2 of the green spotted mandarins and 2 of the dragonet mandarins and all 4 starved to death. I have a well established aquarium that is teaming with copepods, amphipods, and all sorts of worms in the rock and sand. Not only did none of them eat the prepared foods, none of them ever ate...

100% agree wtih ski

When I stopped doing water changes in my fw setup I stopped having problems. For marine, it depends on the setup -- size of system/total water volume, what sort of animals are you keeping (FO vs reef, SPS or no, etc, etc), what sort of nutrient export methods you use, and what sort of...

The coral will be fine most likely. Just acclimating. The polyps do retract like that, often for extended periods. Do you have the key water parameters? temp, s.g., calcium, alk, pH?

SkiFletch: emeralds aren't the only thing. There's a rabbitfish that eats them I believe, though I don't recall which one. The Pakistani butterfly reportedly eats them, but I've never owned one. The hawaiian sailfin tang eats it, and has done so successfully in my tank, though it won't eat...

There is one known species that will attack SPS corals. It is not known to attack soft corals. Last I read from Dr. Ron Shimek, there was one known occurrence of that species in an aquarium. When they are seen on corals, it is usually after the coral has already died. Asterinas are...

Exactly.

Yah. It's definitely not necessary. However, it is useful to have. I'm one of those who believes that crypt is always in our systems, and becomes a problem when adding new fish or something else happens to stress the fish. At those times you slow the rate of flow through the UV and it is a...

To suggest that the risks of having a clown fish are equal to the risks of having zoanthid polyps is just an irresponsible from an experienced reef hobbyist in a forum and a thread with newcomers to the hobby. You know full well that these are not equal risks. By your logic, one should never...

I run one 24/7. My fish are healthy. My corals are healthy. My inverts are thriving. My sandbed it flush with life. The tanks all have various copepods, amphipods, etc crawling all over the place. Do some die when they pass through the UV? Maybe. But even if they do, they are fried treats...

This is why my policy has been for a while the following: NO poisonous creatures in my system. No rabbitfish with poisonous spines. No longspine urchins. No zoanthids, etc. If it can seriously harm a human, it is not in my system. There are plenty of beautiful creatures to put in our glass...

My fuge is inundated with them. My display has none. I have a radiant wrasse and thank him for this. Almost any wrasse of the halichoeres family will take care of them. 4-line 6-line or 12-line will be more hit-or-miss. Ditto mandarin gobies (but if you can get them to eat at all, they may...

The photos are rather blurry but from what I can tell it appears to be a form of caulerpa, a macro algae. It is generally a good idea to get that stuff out of your display. Many (not I) keep it in their refugiums. I prefer chaetomorpha as it tends to be less unruly than the caulerpas.

If you can remove the rocks, a syringe and a bottle of muriatic acid, and then a good rinse, is your best bet by far. If you can't remove the rocks, the Joe's Juice and other products on the market I have found to be mediocre at best. Far better is a maximum strength kalk mix (a small plastic...

Just keep an eye on the fans and the temp of the fixture if you get it.

I know, I know. Hi there musho, you in Chicago? www.rodsfood.com for info. By the way it's available all over the US now. You get the idea. If frozen, go with M.Y.S.I.S. from Piscene whatchamacallits. For flake the ON is great stuff.

I wouldn't run the superskimmer on anything larger than a 75gal. ASM and Euro-reef, by the way, are not under the same ownership. All Seas Marine, Inc is a separate company altogether. I'd be prepared to upgrade that coralife skimmer once the larger tank is gettign established, depending on...

I hear those fixtures get hot.

Who told you supeglue gel won't damage coral flesh? It will kill it instantly, where it touches it. But the rest of the coral will overgrow the plastic that forms when the glue hardens. CA glues are fine for the tank (your skimmer will likely collapse for an hour, then will return to...

Their stuff is good. But I ONLY feed Rod's Food now.

You are not asking the right question. You need a coral skeleton media -- the Gen-X, Shuran, etc large media are good. Go for the type with the large chunks, it enables a lower pH without turning to mush. You can add a handful of dolomite (be sure to get the right kind!!!) which will very...

Fletch do the mesh mod on that Sedra pump and you'll wonder why you hadn't done it ages ago!

Ter I saw that stuff at a local ACE and did not buy it. They had 2 products, both said 77-80 calcium chloride. But on the packagaing of one, it had an asterisk that had "Product of Dow Chemical Co.", where the other did not. If it does not say Dow somewhere on the package, then it is not the...

89deg??? Why??? Virtually all hermit crabs will eat snails. If you got astraea snails, they can't right themselves when they fall, and the hermits pounce. What hermits? Bluelegs are sadists. Zebras and right-handeds are worse. Redlegs are worst of all (but not scarlets, they are ok)...

You can't do any better than this: http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/

Hi; This time of year, many of us are suffering through freezing temperatures, but it will be nice and balmy in Chicago on June 1, 2 and 3 for the 2007 IMAC conference. This year’s International Marine Aquarium Conference is working out to be the best yet with speakers like Martin Moe...

I have a Sequence Hammerhead, and I can tell you that I have pods that have made the trip upstairs from my basement fuge. Off the return I have a skimmer, a 57w uv sterilizer, a carbon filter, a phosphate reactor, and pods have made it from fuge to display around all that stuff. Lots of them...

They are detritivores. Dr. Ron claims they go away on their own. My 75gal fuge is plagued by them and has been for 18months. No sign at all of them disappearing. I've tried everyting, including starving them. No luck. They so cover everything that the chaeto doesnt' grow much. None in...

?

Yes, which fish, and where are you located? I have a large UV sterilizer on my system and slow the flow when I see spots on my tangs. In 2 ich attacks I had success taking frozen MYSIS (or, if in the states, better yet is Rod's Food), dissolve a large amount in a small amount of water...