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One of my silver dollars has had a fungal infection for the past 3 months now, and I just cannot get rid of it. I've tried increasing the temperature and about 8 different off the shelf remedies. I've tried both anti-fungal and anti-bacterial remedies. The tank temp is at 30C and ammonia &...

Thanks for all the replies :thumbs: Aquarium silicone turned out to be strong enough in this case, but I'll remember all that about the superglue. My CO2 bell is doing nicely now...

Followed by a smelly mess all over your floor and walls :crazy:

I'm trying it as I type :smb:

Other than emptying it or loosening the top, no. Closing a valve will just let the pressure build up...

Not sure silicone is strong enough.... Maybe I'll give it a try and seek out a safe waterproof glue (without the need to buy a glue gun) if I'm unsuccessful... :thumbs:

Investigate more efficient ways of dissolving the CO2 produced into the water here: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/ the bubbles from an airstone will just rise to the surface and all the CO2 will escpace, without much of it doing the job. This is the problem I'm having at the moment, so I...

Does superglue dissolve in water? I want to attach a small airstone to the inside of an old (clean) jam jar so that I can use it upturned in my aquarium as a "bell" for CO2 dissusion, as recommended here: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/ I'm thinking superglue would be better than aquarium...

Thanks for the advice :thumbs: The Fluval 104 is external, but I have a spare powerhead so will use that and some spare tubing as advised (if I can find room!).

Yep, that's a well know thing - I guess it means they're happy :thumbs:

I thought clown loach were up there with silver dollars as some of the most nervous fish around? Any time I put my hand in they're off into the corner and tremble like mad... I can feed my angels by hand though...

Thanks for that. I think I'm going to team a Vectron 8 with the outflow of my Fluval 104. I'll let you know how I get on, but I guess I still need to find a medication that will cure the already existing infections.... :unsure:

Greetings neighbour. My 2 local fishshops (Timperley Aquatics and World of Water) both sell Hikari catfish wafers. They're quite hard in the packet (rock solid in fact) but soften up slowly in water without dissolving or clouding the water. Also try garden worms. Dig some up and wash the soil...

My plec doesn't seem to mind. But remember that the water at the bottom of your tank (where plecs spend a lot of their time) will hold less O2 that at the surface where gas exchange occurs. Adding more CO2 to the tank can therefore be hard on bottom dwelling species (corys etc.) which is why I...

I feed mine with (thawed out) peeled/frozen prawns and chopped up garden worms. They also love Hikari catfish wafers, but so do the silver dollars in my tank, which is why feeding after dark is a good idea. They also appreciate cucumber and/or corgette - they need a green part to their diet...

I've never come across water softners, but if you're going to use spring water, make sure it's not carbonated! I read somewhere that only one cup of carbonated water in a 200L tank is enough to spell doom :crazy:

I don't think you can. I'd start doing some large daily water changes (50 to 75%) with RO or filtered water - I think that's the only way to remove the salt.

I'm having an ongoing battle against fin and body rot at the moment, I've tried several proprietry remedies, all to no avail... :( I'm thinking of investing in a UV steriliser early in the New Year - I know they're successful at killing pathogens, but are they also effective against fungi...

Some hot water AND A TEASPOON OF SUGAR I forgot to add, to get things going...

That's a good tip :thumbs:

Yep - you must remove all ion exchange media including carbon, zeolite and green-x.... Progress is slow but in the right direction here....

I may have spoken too soon about Myxazin for curing my fishes problems: a temp of 30C and remedicating every day (as directed) seems to be having an effect. My plants are suffering though as the water is very coloured. -_- I'm going to buy a UV steriliser in Jan....

Stop cleaning everything!! You're removing beneficial bacteria from your tank which break the nitrite down into nitrate! Keep doing say 25% water changes daily, but don't touch your filter, gravel, rocks etc until nitrite levels are at 0. Then if you clean your filter weekly, don't clean it...

I'm not sure doing a water change after medicating is the right way to go - it dilutes the medication which will biodegrade anyway. I prefer no water changes, an elevated temp and an extra shot of medication after a week or so to make sure the little buggers don't come back.

I cured persistent white spot with the Intrepet treatment you list, but not the first time. The key is patience: i. Remove any activated carbon, zeolite or green-X from your filters/uplifts. ii. Increase the tank temp to 30C. iii. ensure the tank is aerated well to balance the increased temp...

It appears no-one can help us :-(

My fish are suffering with recurring fin and body (white slightly protruding blemishes) rot. I've increased the tank temp to 30C, removed carbon/Green-X from my filter & tried Intrepet's Treatment No 8 Anti Fungus & Finrot. That temporarily got rid of the body problems and it looked like fins...

I 2nd that FOTM nomination!

Just go to Tescos and look for some bread yeast. I bought some called "active baking yeast". 1 hour in warm water and you're in business. I've also been recommended to try champagne yeast as it's resistant to higher concs of alcohol. :thumbs:

I had that before when I installed a new air pump and stones.... Smelly fish water all over your floor is not good at all :crazy:

I made one last weekend with a 2L fanta bottle, 2m of airline and a small airstone (from an old uplift). Oh and a little bit of aquarum silicone to seal the hole in the bottle top. It's producing a few small bubbles but they're just rising to the surface.... I'm using refined white sugar and a...

I don't think green-X will upset your cycle so long as it's the last stage of filtration. If you put it in first or middle, you may deprive some beneficial bacteria of nitrite. I put it in last, just after some filter floss. Remember to change it about once a month as it may let nitrates back...

Good suggestions - I guess keeping it off the floor and maybe on top of the tank (if it can bear the weight :crazy: ) will help too. I've just bought a 5L bottle of spring water. I think I'll step-up my 2L experiment at the weekend. In the mean time I've got some drinkin' to do! Guess I could...

OK, attaching it to my powerhead outlet it is then. I guess the only drawback is I can't visually check if CO2 is being produced and when it's time for a change.... On a seperate note - does anyone have a novel idea to keep a pop bottle warm during the day and overnight? My central heating is...

Doesn't the yeast consuming the sugar produce heat anyway? My pop bottle is quite warm to the touch - much warmer than room temp of about 20-22C.

Well, couldn't find anything at all suitable... So I just took a 2L bottle, drilled a suitable sized hole in the top (a tight fit but not so that it constricts air flow) sealed it with silicone: and it works! I'm using a small airstone (the type that usually comes with an uplift) and at first...

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind should B&Q or the other solution not work. :thumbs:

Blimey - that all sounds a bit scientific! How do you know your output has tripled? Just by observation? I'm not aware of any local lab suppliers, and although I work in the nuclear industry, I'm and office geek not a lab geek.... I'll try B&Q tommorrow, otherwise just try without any...

Pressure was precisely what I was worried about. However, I guess so long as it's a strong seal, the pressure will be released through the airline. If I can't find any metallic connectors, I'll give the direct approach a whirl :thumbs:

RO Units connectors, hmm.......