White Spot

UV sterilizers aren't incredibly effective at preventing ich. Many species/strains of saltwater ich run on day/night cycles and don't stray far from the fish's sleeping place, so a UV sterilizer can't possibly remove or prevent these. Anyways, I have lost more than my share of fishes to ich co-infections but I haven't lost a single fish to ich alone.

My lagoon trigger recently had ich, and it was very heavy at it's peak, but I just kept feeding him healthy foods enriched with garlic and spirulina, and the trigger's immune system gradually overpowered the ich parasites. No other treatment was required and I don't use UV, so I would conclude that good maintainence and feeding is all that's needed to fight off the lightest of infections. Freshwater baths are also highly effective (I would rate it over copper and malactite green) and can save all but the most fargone of fishes. The only problem is that capturing the fish to give it the bath can cause stress.
 
UV sterilizers aren't incredibly effective at preventing ich. Many species/strains of saltwater ich run on day/night cycles and don't stray far from the fish's sleeping place, so a UV sterilizer can't possibly remove or prevent these. Anyways, I have lost more than my share of fishes to ich co-infections but I haven't lost a single fish to ich alone.

My lagoon trigger recently had ich, and it was very heavy at it's peak, but I just kept feeding him healthy foods enriched with garlic and spirulina, and the trigger's immune system gradually overpowered the ich parasites. No other treatment was required and I don't use UV, so I would conclude that good maintainence and feeding is all that's needed to fight off the lightest of infections. Freshwater baths are also highly effective (I would rate it over copper and malactite green) and can save all but the most fargone of fishes. The only problem is that capturing the fish to give it the bath can cause stress.
how do you go about a fresh water bath then? my blennie has a few spots on his head and hes bashing into rocks.
 
"I have found UV's to be very effective in bare bottom tanks, primarily in retail and wholesale operations. In display aquaria, the volume of the tank, the substrate and rockwork, the flow rate of the UV, and the wattage all work against its effectiveness."

Excerpt from Steven Pro, Reef Central

Click here for an excellent article on ich
 
how do you go about a fresh water bath then?

Just fill a large enough bowl with RO water and plunk the fish in while he's till in the net. Keep a sharp eye for jumping sprees, and leave him there for three to six minutes.
 
how do you go about a fresh water bath then?

Just fill a large enough bowl with RO water and plunk the fish in while he's till in the net. Keep a sharp eye for jumping sprees, and leave him there for three to six minutes.
ok great, i will try that in a moment.
 
what about buffering for PH shock, matching temperatures and oxygenating the water for some time?

If they have ich then really stressing them out by PH shock and temperature change is not going to be helpful....
 
I dont really have one and to be fair I dont think I will buy one
And perhaps you missed that Pengy666, UV is not a treatment, it is more of a prevention 'tool'. If you haven't had one, how can you have an opinion on how effective they are?

and maybe a UV Filter!

I am sure I am just missing the 'gist' of what you are trying to say here...but could you explain what you mean by basically saying "UV is not effective, but get a UV filter"? I just thought it seemed a bit contradictory.


Its called taking the piss,

And if you look back at my previous posts I have had debates with a lot of other members and it came to light that a lot of people also agreed for what good they do they do as much harm, and yes I have had one in my nano?? and I had whitespot a few times.

So imho I feel they are a waste of money? for ME!

:good:
 
hmm. would it be alright to get a bowl of my tankl water, put the blennie in that and add some protozin? it doesnt sat that you can use it on marine would that be alright?
 
what about buffering for PH shock, matching temperatures and oxygenating the water for some time?

If they have ich then really stressing them out by PH shock and temperature change is not going to be helpful....
Well in all honesty I think the shock from being placed from an sg of 1.026 into one of 1 is going to outweigh the shock of pH and temp. Though I would recommend having it the same temperature.
 
Well in all honesty I think the shock from being placed from an sg of 1.026 into one of 1 is going to outweigh the shock of pH and temp. Though I would recommend having it the same temperature.

I guess what I was alluding to is keeping all the parameters you can control (temp, PH, O2) the same as your tank and the special causes (salinity) must be different. I would rather have 1 variable out of control than 4....
 
Fish can change their internal pH very quickly, so pH shock is almost never a problem. O2 and temperature should be at acceptable levels.
 
Once again, against my better judgment, I am going to jump head first into this shallow pool....however, I assure you, I am not trying to argue with anyone, ok?

Many species/strains of saltwater ich run on day/night cycles and don't stray far from the fish's sleeping place, so a UV sterilizer can't possibly remove or prevent these.

Granted, the fact that there are multiple species of both FW and Marine Ich is relatively new information so it is very possible that I haven't heard about this before because of that, but to be honest, I have never heard about ich tending to 'hang out', so to speak, in one area or another - and my possibly flawed brand of logic would pose the question: "Why would an Ich protozoa wait for a fish to return to a sleeping place or whatever instead of being proactive in finding a food source?"

That being said, it is my understanding that, after 'birth', an Ich protozoa will become 'free-swimming', hunting for a host and that is why UV can be somewhat useful in Ich prevention...although yes, I agree that they are not the end-all, be-all solution to Ich.

Freshwater baths are also highly effective (I would rate it over copper and malactite green) and can save all but the most fargone of fishes.

Let me preface the following comments by predicting that this is where I am about to create controversy again...

The freshwater bath treatment is really not as effective as some may want to us to think because, once living within their 'white-spot' stage, they very well embedded and protected - the host fishes' epithelium to thicken, so that the host's own immune reaction provides a safe haven for this "adult" or "mature" stage, where it's protected from medication (The skeptical aquarist, 2005) - and hence, the freshwater may never even reach them. This is also why cleaner shrimp and fish are also not the 100% absolute 'cure' for Ich because they also cannot reach them all without causing even more severe problems for the host fish.

In fact, many people would say that the only truly effective ich treatments are hyposalinity and copper based medications === and I would be more than willing to provide various links to support that thought, however, I am not sure if many of them might be considered 'competing websites' or not.

leave him there for three to six minutes.

Somewhat conversely though....if you are dead-set on using FW baths, I highly suggest that you keep a vigilant eye on the fish throughout the process and stop treatment at the first sign of distress....

bowl with RO water and plunk the fish in while he's till in the net

...and you should do your best to ensure that the FW you are going to use is similar in both temp and pH (meaning RO water is not a good option when SW fish are concerned) to help avoid or reduce any stress or osmotic shock stemming from 'plopping' a fish from one vessel to another....just like I now realize Sophos9 points out. That being said, I am going to go way out of bounds by restating my position that....

Fish can change their internal pH very quickly, so pH shock is almost never a problem

...this ^^^ is not always, if ever, the case in saltwater fish, and while FW fish can do so, they need time to adjust (meaning, 'quickly' may not be the best description)

Pengy666 said:
And if you look back at my previous posts I have had debates with a lot of other members and it came to light that a lot of people also agreed for what good they do they do as much harm, and yes I have had one in my nano?? and I had whitespot a few times.

So imho I feel they are a waste of money? for ME!

Again, I have also been faced with Ich even though I have a UV sterilizer on my tank...it is not a treatment or absolute prophylactic against Ich, only an added measure that can be benificial in other ways too. Don't get me wrong, I do value your opinion and am not disagreeing with you, but as with many topics in this hobby, it is easy to find conflicting opinions, ideas, and information so I am 100% sure that you have found many people who agree with you...but I could probably find an equal number of those who disagree as well. Make sense?

In short, I am just trying to provide the 'other side of the story' to help highlight what might be an opinion dressed up to look like a fact (which I am sure we are all guilty of from time to time and I am not picking on you in the least)
 
"Why would an Ich protozoa wait for a fish to return to a sleeping place or whatever instead of being proactive in finding a food source?
Because if they wait until night then they are guaranteed to have a sleeping fish to prey on. This is how cryptocaryon survives in the wild.

The freshwater bath treatment is really not as effective as some may want to us to think because, once living within their 'white-spot' stage, they very well embedded and protected
So it would seem, and I do agree with you on this, but freshwater baths work because the huge osmotic shift in the surrounding water, which can actually cause the parasites to take on water and explode.

I used to have sailfin tang that was covered with ich. The entire tank was experiencing an epidemic so I caught the tang and gave it a freshwater bath, and it's still alive today, while all the rest died. Admittedly I did give another fish a bath, and he later died but he had unfortunately been starving for several days and was already comprimised. So, if it works, it does so miraculously, but it doesn't always work. As you can see I've changed my mind a little on how effective I think it is.

if you are dead-set on using FW baths, I highly suggest that you keep a vigilant eye on the fish throughout the process and stop treatment at the first sign of distress
Saltwater fish can survive for a fair amount of time in fresh water, so a freshwater bath shouldn't kill them but it could cause some stress.

this ^^^ is not always, if ever, the case in saltwater fish, and while FW fish can do so, they need time to adjust (meaning, 'quickly' may not be the best description
Science, experience and nature say otherwise. I'm not sure how much more clearly I can possibly explain this; open oceans may be incredibly stable but the areas the vast majority of our fish come from are no where near.

In short, I am just trying to provide the 'other side of the story' to help highlight what might be an opinion dressed up to look like a fact (which I am sure we are all guilty of from time to time and I am not picking on you in the least)
I find that statement rediculous as it's usually me or Andy that's trying to smash beginner misconceptions and it's you that always comes to reinforce them...
 
my blennie has had white spot for about 7 days now, not getting worse but not getting better. still eating loads of different foods like a pig hes always been. my lfs gave me some eSHa oodinex that is safe to use with inverts in tank aswell? anyone heard or used this?
 

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