White Spot In Uncycled Tank - Best Course Of Action

[star4]

I cant comment on NT labs as I have never had to use them. Sounds good though.

 

[shrimply]

Hmm, thanks, I'm not convinced my ich problem is sorted, maybe was just wishful thinking earlier .  I'll update tomorrow.
 
I think the Flubenzadole is a shout, and what's more, it is apparently little used but very efficient against ich so if I'm still failing with the eSHa it definitely sounds like a potential solution. I've emailed the company asking if they think it would be suitable with the loaches and while doing water changes.
 
If anyone has any thoughts though I'd be interested to hear them.  Also, it's purely a liquid flubenzadole solution, I've read that such treatments are better done along with an antibacterial one because removing parasites can lead to wounds that are open to infection. Be good to hear peoples thoughts and suggestions on this.

 

[shrimply]

Another update, I still have spots

 
But only two, as far as I can see, on the one fish who is still flashing.  I dunno what sort of ich this is but it definitely isn't not disappearing as fast as I was promised.
 
Still hopefully I am getting there, will wait until later on and see.
 
In other news it would appear that the tank is more or less cycled, not a trace of ammonia 18 hours after the water change, not a trace of nitrites either, not got a nitrite reading once - very strange.  But this is going to make life a lot easier for me now.  Will continue water changes daily until I finish treating the ich though.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I use Flubendazole itself for wasting disease and other parasites, I have never used it for ich but I have only seen ich twice in 14 years and having 16-20 tanks for the past 12 years.
 
Here is a good link to information on flubendazole from the place I buy mine in the USA. http/www.inkmkr.com/Fish/FlubendazoleTreatment.pdf
 
Here is an earlier article by the same gent: Eradicating Hydra and Other Pests with Flubendazole
From: Journal of the American Killifish Association September/October 2003
Vol.36, No. 5
By Charles Harrison, Ph.D.
http/www.inkmkr.com/Fish/FlubendazoleArticle.pdf
 
And here is a quote from him on this med posted on another site:

 
Add 1/4 teaspoon of the medication for each 5 gallons of tank water. It may coat for a while, but it needs to be mixed into the tank water, swirl it in to dissolve. Hydra, Ick and Velvet take three days to remove. Heximeta may take three doses to remove completely over five to seven days to complete. Three days after the first treatment change the water again. Add another dose of 1/4 teaspoon/5 gal. to the fresh water. Change the water a second time after 5 to 7 days.

from http/www.fancyguppies.co.uk/page66.htm
 
Remember all the above article deal with using Flubendazole in powder form. So you will need to follow the directions on the prioduct you have rather than those for the powder. But at least you will have a good idea of how and why the med works and against what.

 

[shrimply]

Thanks,
 
So you think it's a good idea to go with this as a general precaution against worms etc?  Seems ideal really and fast acting.
 
I'm aware though that I will need to get the temperature back down first as the flubendazole removes oxygen from the water too.  Hopefully the ich will be all gone by then, seems to be vanishing which is good news

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I have both Flub. and Levamisole HCL as well as Metronidazole and Praziquantel on hand as I have a tendency to buy wild fish and that means I get worms, parasites and other nasties absolutely free of charge.
 
Here is a secret they never tell you about keeping fish. They will always come down with something when local stores are closed so you cannot get needed meds. If you keep some meds on hand, then they will come down with something for which those meds are not useful. Sometimes they will act like they have something they don't really have just to get us to buy more meds we didn't need as it turns out. All of this is in the fish union agreement. I saw a copy. It also states that whenever they notice on of us trying to catch a fish they must all try to swim into the net in order to keep us from catching the one we want. This also applies to fish traps.

 

[shrimply]

Quick update for those that are interested.  I think I'm white spot free. Haven't seen any spots since last Thursday.  The temperature is down to 30C and there is no salt in the water any more.
 
I added the first of the worming treatment yesterday and it doesn't seem to have had any detrimental effect on the loaches who were all keep to feed today.  Haven't seen many signs of worms since treatment although one of the loaches did have, what looked like, white faeces hanging from it last time I looked.  Not sure if this could be some sort of worm being removed or not.

 

[star4]

Great news on the ich. I was wondering how you were getting on. I am going through similar at the moment with some new fish in quarantine, all were skinny when I got them, but 5 out of the 6 are fattening up. I am on the do I or dont I hesitation on worming them.
 
How are they feeding?

 

[shrimply]

They seem to have a good response to food, all 7 of them are always keen to come out and investigate food.  In fact, I only ever put the light one to watch them as they feed and they will now come out as soon as the light goes on even in the absence of food.
 
But it's harder to establish of all of them are actually eating the food, or if they are just spitting it back out etc.  There are some that are obviously smaller than others but then from their patterning, they are also younger, or at least not as developed.  So I don't know for sure, as I say there is definitely some evidence of white faeces along side regular coloured ones which sort of suggests there may be some hidden nasties.
 
I think, having thought long and hard, I'm going to stick with the dosage suggested on the wormer bottle for my tank volume, but rather than follow their dosing routine, which is once a week for up to 4 weeks.  Follow the advice in the article that TTA linked and do a large water change and dose again 3 days after the initial dose and not dose again unless there are symptoms suggesting it is necessary.

 

[star4]

Sounds good to me. It is a worry with white faeces. Thankfully there is none from the one I am worried about, just a sunken belly, which is getting better slowly.
 
Fingers crossed all goes well with them. Let me know

 

[shrimply]

So update(ish) No spots so yay, I haven't seen any flicking behaviour either and have come to the conclusion that this behaviour is related to water changes rather than anything else as that's the only time I've seen it. Not sure what about water changes but I've seen pH changes hypothesised as a possible cause.
 
I'm still seeing some white faeces which is slightly concerning but they've had two flubenzadole treatments now so I can't see what they could possibly have. I could add some flubenzadole directly to the food, which I'm reluctant to do. This was suggested by the treatment manufactures as a route I could take but they did also say they hadn't carried out tests using it in this way, but knew of fishkeepers that were. That being said I'm seeing no real evidence of high parasite infection, one little guy appears smaller and less plump than the others but he may just be a bit younger or less developed.
 
They are all active and seems to be feeding. I'm in the process now of slowly reducing the temperature back down to that of my main tank (24C) and when I'm done they'll have been in quarantine for 4 weeks so should be about ready to go in the main tank I hope.

 

[star4]

Sounds good One thing you can add to the food is a good product called Vitazin its made by waterlife, its not a medication its a liquid vitamin supplement you can soak their food in, it also helps boost their immune systems.