Which Wood Would You Choose For A Fish Tank Stand?

wendywc

Rocking a crabshell for a hat.
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I know very little about wood types, please help. At the hardware store near me, here's the selection. Prices for most woods really don't vary so much that it's a concern for me. Besides, I would pay more if one is much hardier than the others.

Aspen
Cedar
Douglas Fir
Hemlock?
Maple
Oak
Pine
Poplar
Red Oak
Southern Yellow Pine
 
I'd go with maple or oak. As mentioned, the rest are pine species that are too soft and prone to brittle when drying for my tastes. Make sure you stain/varnish and waterseal the wood cause the stand WILL get wet ;) Whatever you do, dont use poplar
 
its not the wood its ho its made, pine is more than stromg enough provided the stand is constructed right.....

choose wich ever of those woods you like the colour of, just make sire the stand is built right
 
Well I'd like to pick the strongest wood and have it constructed properly. :D Also I was thinking about laminating the top too.
 
Thanks for the comments everyone. I'll definately go back and price what the oak, red oak, and maple are going for.
 
I'll bet money the maple will be the cheapest of the 3 ;)
 
pine would be fine for construction of the legs depending on the size of the tank you could use 2x2 3x3 4x4 4x2 and then id get some tongue and groove use oak or which ever timber you like best and encase the stand with it for my brothers 5x2x2 tank i used 6 pine 4x4s and that was about 11 years ago and its still standing there is a good pinned thread on building a tank stand just go off that

good luck
 
Oak is readily available and pretty affordable at the lumber yard here. As for the other woods, maple costs slightly more and pine and others costs less, but not by much. Therefore, I'll be using oak.

I have read the pinned article, thanks! Hubby and I are coming up with our own design to house the current 30 gallon and support the 55 gallon; it'll probably be very over-engineered out of fear otherwise.
 
Over-engineered is always better than a wet floor. good luck :thumbs:
 
I have lots of experience as a woodworker. Any of the wood species you listed will work fine - Oak looks nicer, but pine costs less and is strong. Look for "S4S" beams. This means they have been "Sanded on four sides". They cost a bit more but save a lot of time sanding! Keep in mind the following points:

(1) Wood has a very high compression strength along the vertical grain. The fact that trees can grow to hundreds of feet in height proves this out. Any of the woods you listed, even the pine, will support your tank with no troubles.

(2) It is not so much the wood species you select as it is the grain characteristics that are of major importance. You want straight grain in whatever wood you choose. Also, check each peice you select for bowing and cupping (curving along both the width and edge). You want each beam to be straight as an arrow.

(3) Method of construction far outweighs choice of wood. You want all the weight bearing aspects of the tank to be transfered to the vertical supports in an efficient manner. For example: have the horizontal top members resting on top of the vertical supports - not attached to the side of the verticals with metal brackets. This will help distribute weight all along the length of the tank to the verticals.

(4) Use wood glue in combination with wood screws. If you use just the screws, this will not add much strength to the structure. Wood glue, if used right, is far stronger than screws.

(5) Get yourself a large triangle or 90 degree square. Use this as you join wooden members to make sure all your angles are at 90 degrees to one another.

Hope this helps.....
 
Remember the structure could be anything strong. you can cover the outside with anything. Yes anything Paper Machee if you like!!!

as stated its all in the design. you need to design it so that if you never screwed or glued it it will stand of its own back that way it supports its self. if it supports its self then the more weight the sturdier it will get.

This can be done by laying the top beams ON the legs (As said) as to the cross beams cut about 1/4- 1/3 in to the leg low down and make it a tight fit for the cross beam to fit in. this will allow for it to be sturdy when swayed.

As said Glue all joints and screw for strength. as the tank is filled the who structure will compress on its self and it should not move an inch. mine is in pine and its not moving... i finished the top with MDF to allow for any imperfections in the top joins and save me sanding all day long. finished with some polystyrene and jobs a good'n

Im sure someone will disagree but it has worked for me and im sticking to it!!!!
 
CHEAPEST !!!! LOL All I use is "CLS" timber... absolute garbage mystery wood, but good enough for the framing, approx £1.50 a 2m length ! (3x2 in old money) then you can clad it in something nice.
 

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