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What do you think is the best product line for freshwater aquariums. API seachem fluval ECT.

Tony blazer

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1. Water conditioner
API stress coat vs Seachem prime
2. Sludge management
API Stress zyme vs Seachem Pristine
3. Adding nitrifying bacteria
API QuickStart vs Seachem stability

What products do you guys use for conditioner sludge and bacteria.
 
1. Water conditioner
API stress coat vs Seachem prime
2. Sludge management
API Stress zyme vs Seachem Pristine
3. Adding nitrifying bacteria
API QuickStart vs Seachem stability

What products do you guys use for conditioner sludge and bacteria.
Ive used both stress coat and Prime and prefer prime because its more concentrated so one gets more bang for your buck.
Never used sludge management, sounds like snake oil to me.
As for nitrfying bacteria ive never used any of that stuff either but i know posters on this board have mentioned adding ammonia to cycle a tank.
 
I use almost 100% Seachem products, including their substrate. I have found some work, some don't. Stability for example does nothing to promote or add bacterial growth, while Tetra Safe Start Plus (add a capful after every water change until you are done adding fish to the tank) is totally awesome. I had a terrible time with my water stats until I started using this. It was my fault I bought way too many fish at once (got a discount if you spent so much) and there wasn't sufficient bacteria to sustain it so I fought out of control ammonia that wouldn't convert to nitrites etc. Once I started adding Tetra Safe Start Plus - within 2 weeks I had PERFECT water. I will discontinue it soon because all but one of my aquariums is "full", if I get more fish for that aquarium I'll start adding it again for a while.

As far as water conditioner - nothing beats Seachem prime. I have an API water conditioner I must have bought some time ago that I'll use in a pinch. And I'm sure it will work just fine. Water conditioners aren't rocket science.

I use API test kit, which I like EXCEPT for the fact that it shows both active and inactivated ammonia as if it was all active ammonia so you can get very high readings when, in actuality you have NO active ammonia and won't have, as long as you add Prime every couple of days (otherwise it will convert back to active ammonia). So I have a second test kit that reads both active and inactive ammonia (API) but it's an extra hassle to use. Right now all my ammonia is at zero so I am so glad I don't have to run two tests or add extra Prime (it's expensive).

I have Seachem Pristine and it never did anything but make my water cloudy white for a day or two. I don't use it anymore. Haven't tried other brands - but I don't think it realistic to get rid of sludge without a good vacuuming and water change of 75% or more. I sometimes vacuum between water changes - only removing about 4 gallons of water but keeping the tank cleaner. I do a total cleaning once every 6-8 days, where I remove and clean all "toys", wipe down plants and remove 75% or more of the water, and do a really good suctioning of debris and a very good wipe down of the sides of the tank. I also clean my AquaClear filter (pain in the butt, but the best on the market for filtering). I clean the sponge part of the filter with water from the bucketfuls of water I removed so I don't kill any bacteria - it mainly gets rid of the sludge and slime on the sponge. I do NOT clean the ceramic media, if/when I use a carbon filter I rinse it out and reuse it - if I don't have 3 plump media in the filter I have problems with the sponge rising up and pushing the lid off of the top of the filter (it's a constant pain even with 3 media in there). My cleaning process may sound extensive but I have a REALLY bad habit of overfeeding my fish and it just makes a mess. I've had these aquariums for a year and STILL cannot figure out the right amount of food. Plus, it seems like I just get it down when suddenly the fish stop eating as much and I'm left with a pile of debris. So if you are a better feeder than I am you can probably go 2 weeks or more without cleaning your tank, or just do mini suctionings to get the worst of the gunk out.

I think I've answered your questions on what chemicals I use for bacteria and water conditioning, I just can't imagine any product getting rid of sludge unless you are also a magician. I really think frequent suctioning and cleaning is the best way to control it - as well as feeding your fish more accurately than I seem to do. I've tried cutting back on the food but then it seems like some aren't getting any food while others fight them off and get plenty - so I don't want anybody to go hungry so I add more than enough and it costs me in water cleaning and suctioning time. My daughter once told me that my goal is to "feed the world" so I feed stray cats, invite lonely people to holiday dinners, make enough food for 3 x what I need etc. My cat is happily not much of a snacker or she would be fat. I have some fish that are too fat. What can I say? I'm a little fat, but luckily I don't really care about feeding myself.
 
1. Water conditioner
API stress coat vs Seachem prime

Both of these manufacturers are reputable, arguably just about the best in the business. But they also both produce a few unnecessary and detrimental products, and their reasoning for using some of them is misleading at best. Neither of these conditioners are really the "best," depending somewhat on circumstances. StressCoat contains aloe vera and studies have concluded that long-term the gills of fish are negatively impacted. There is really no reason to ever use this product.

API's Tap Water Conditioner is far safer and more effective because it deals with what needs dealing with, chlorine and chloramine. The heavy metal detoxification is found in most conditioners and is probably worth it, just in case. Fish have a much lower tolerance for some minerals such as copper than humans, so what is safe for drinking water is not safe for fish. This product is also the most highly concentrated conditioner available, so less is needed which benefits fish. Conditioners like every substance added to the tank water get into the fish's bloodstream so additives need to be essential and then used minimally, never more that what is actually required to handle the task.

Which brings me to the Prime. This messes with the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate chemistry and this is best left to the bacteria and plants. Here again there are unnecessary chemicals getting into the fish. Think of it like taking antibiotics when you don't need to; it is not going to help the fish, and over time seems likely to do the opposite. However, in new tanks this can help initially, and if you have ammonia/nitrite/nitrate in the source water (at minimal levels to begin with), a conditioner that detoxifies these can help, by making the water initially safe, and by the time Prime becomes ineffective (24-36 hours) the bacteria/plants will be able to carry on. With excessive nitrate though this doesn't work either.

Bottom line...the water conditioner should only do what needs to be done with your circumstances, never more unless it cannot be helped, and always use the minimal amount. Claims by several manufacturers that overdosing is not harmful are false. They obviously define "harmful" as meaning the fish die within hours, but any product that unnecessarily gets into the fish's bloodstream can be harmful long-term without killing the fish outright.

2. Sludge management
API Stress zyme vs Seachem Pristine

There is no way to handle sludge except regular substantial water changes, while not overstocking, overfeeding, and with regular substrate and filter cleanings. Plants also help, and the substrate can be left alone with plants, provided the other factors are in line. And here again, this chemical compound is doing more harm than good by entering the fish.

Pristine I am not as familiar with but having read Seachem's information, all I can say is, if you really think you need sommething like this, you clearly do not have good aquarium husbandry/management. There is no way any aquarium should ever have organics/sludge that is not easily and readily dealt with naturally by plants (if present) and/or bacteria.

3. Adding nitrifying bacteria
API QuickStart vs Seachem stability

Bacterial supplements can help, some much more than others. One must however realize that they are not instant cycling products (except for Dr. Tim's One and Only). Tetra's SafeStart is second as the best (it was developed by Dr. Tim Hovanec too). However, studies Dr. Hovanec and his team carried out on some of the other products did show they would speed up the colonization of the nitrifying bacteria, though not as much as the other two I mentioned; the other products did not (at least then) contain the specific nitrifyting bacteria species, but the bacteria they did contain did help. I have used Stability once when I had a bacteria issue following a treatment and without question it got the ammonia and nitrite at zero within hours. But whether that was just good fortune, I cannot say. But others have used Stability with good results during cycling, so it can't hurt. Just don't assume it is better than it actually is.
 
I've been in the hobby for over four decades and I try to use the least products as possible. I have been using stress coat for decades as my water conditioner when adding new water or I have a injured fish. Stress coat has some properties that the other water conditioners do not have.

Stress zyme is used to help break down sludge according to the manufacturer. I have used it in the past when I have done major tank maintenance like 70%. I have stopped using it because I don't really have issue with sludge in my tank and I felt it was a waste of money.

API QuickStart I have used in the past when starting up a new aquarium. I have not started a new aquarium for many years now. About a year ago I read an article stayed in that API startup does not use aquatic bacteria it uses terrestrial bacteria that will eventually die what a rip off from the manufacturer.

I am just curious to know what people are using there are so many products on the market now when you walk up and down the aisles at a local fish store.

Rule of thumb for feeding fish you should only put in the tank what they can eat in about 4 to 5 minutes. Just put a little food in let them finish it add more up until 5 minutes you really can't go wrong with that strategy.
 
@Jan Cavalieri
Don't take this personal agree to disagree. But I personally think you clean your tank too much. Every surface you have being substrate rocks plants intake valves air pump lines plastic decor has nullifying bacteria.

I clean my filters every 12 weeks but I have two filters so I cycle 1 filter every 6 weeks. I do anywhere from 18 to 20% what it changes every 7 to 10 days that's like 10 of 14 gallons. Send me a picture of your tank
 
Seachem Flourish and Iron..work great for plants. If they don't? Nothing will.
 
My point was there so many products now when you go to your local fish store claiming to do this claim in the do that but are these products really necessary and do they really work and efficient. Yes we all need a good water conditioner if we're using tap water what are all the other stuff really needed?

I'm involved in another fish forum and somebody gave me this link to this research article. This was an excellent read that shows that the manufacturer of these products lie stretch facts and most of these products are not really needed.

 
Water conditioner I use Seachem Prime and absolutely swear by it.

Sludge management I don't use anything other than keeping my aquarium clean via gravel vac, filter maintenance and glass cleaning as well as using a UV filter.

Bacteria, when I first started my tank I used Tetra Safestart and I also used Evolution Clear Balls which I thought did a pretty good job of seeding my external filter.
 
Seachem is the best, I just get API because it’s less expensive. Tetra stuff is good as well. I personally use Tetra water conditioner.
 
Like Byron, I use API Tap Water Conditioner. The only other thing I add to my tanks is Seachem Flourish (comprehensive supplement) for the plants at half the recommended dose.


The shelves at the pet store are full of unnecessary products because the companies that make them are in it to make money, and the more products they can convince the unsuspecting fish keeper to buy, the more money they make. And there are people who keep fish but don't want to put in any work, so they will look for any product that claims to reduce the need for water changes etc.
 
I find that imagitarium products are cheaply made, just my option though. :)
 

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