Shifty1303
Fish Fanatic
fair enough shall look into it then! any ideas on decent tanks these days? its been a while since i kept up with all the stuff the manufacturers are releasing etc
Upgrading An Old Juwel Tank. Opinions?
- Thread starter Shifty1303
- Start date
I'll always stick with Juwel but it's all personal choice. I'm probably not the best person to advise as all I've had is Juwel ... the 800 being the first Juwel then an up-grade to a Rio 180 then up to the 240 I have now. I was looking at the Rio 300 yesterday but I don't have room for one that big unfortunately ... I'd also need to buy a pair of ladders to maintain it lol
Shifty1303 said:
Sterbai cories
they have a broader temperature range then ... good to know 
two other cories in that range too. If you click on 'show others in this range' you get a list. It's mostly plecs on the list but there's the splendens on the list which if memory serves me right that's the one commonly known as the green lazer? A nice cory ...
two other cories in that range too. If you click on 'show others in this range' you get a list. It's mostly plecs on the list but there's the splendens on the list which if memory serves me right that's the one commonly known as the green lazer? A nice cory ...
Akasha72 said:they have a broader temperature range then ... good to know
two other cories in that range too. If you click on 'show others in this range' you get a list. It's mostly plecs on the list but there's the splendens on the list which if memory serves me right that's the one commonly known as the green lazer? A nice cory ...
The brochis splendens are technically not 'corydoras', but they are commonly referred to as 'emerald cories' or 'emerald catfish', not green laser cories.
The green lasers don't have a true species name yet, but like the 'gold or orange lasers' which are currently classified as 'CW010', the green lasers are 'CW009'.
The other cories listed in that range: corydoras amapaensis & corydoras oiapoquensis, aren't exactly common in the aquarium trade.
Sterbai are the only ones that are common in the trade. Brochis splendens are fairly common as well, but technically aren't corydoras (not that that is a major concern, just a statement of fact).
Just came to this thread via another, and have a couple comments/questions.
First, Shifty1303, you mention rams "and tetra"...which tetras are you thinking of? Temperature has been mentioned here with respect to the corydoras species, and that's been sorted out (yes, Corydoras sterbai is the cory most often associated with discus, and wild angelfish, both of which need higher temperatures). But this impacts tetras (and any other fish) too. Many will not last at these warm temperatures.
Second, a taxonomic correction on the "Brochis" species. These (all three species) are now in the genus Corydoras. Phylogenetic analysis by several ichthyologists over the last decade or two has hinted that the family Corydoradinae needs significant revision. With respect to the three Brochis species, Britto (2003) first synonymised Brochis with Corydoras, on the basis that there are certain species in Corydoras that are more closely related to the three Brochis species than they are to congeners [congeners means the other species in Corydoras]. Britto suggested that considerably more study on the 100+ "corydoras" species would be necessary and advisable before species can be decidedly reassigned taxonomically in any meaningful relationship, so the obvious "easy fix" was to synonymize Brochis with Corydoras. All subsequent phylogenitic studies [Shimabukuro-Dias et al. (2004), Alexandrou et al. (2011), Alexandrou & Taylor (2011), etc] agreed. The California Acedemy of Sciences, Catalogue of Fishes, maintained by Dr. William Eschmeyer, is considered the authority on ichthyological taxonomy, and the former Brochis species are now Corydoras splendens, C. multiradiatus and C. Britskii.
To carry the story further, it is acknowledged by all that Brochis as a distinct genus will be resurrected once the taxonomic muddle in Corydoras is resolved. All phylogenetic works since Britto (2003) have identified nine distinct clades within the present Corydoras genus, which means there will be nine genera, one (that containing the type species first named Corydoras) of which will remain Corydoras, in the end. The "Brochis" species along with the several "Corydoras" species that are related by having evolved from the same last common ancestor, will take the name Brochis according to the rules of the International Code of Zoological Nomenclature which governs the naming of all animal species on earth; "Brochis" is the name first applied to one of these species as distinct, so that name takes precedence.
The entry for Corydoras splendens on Seriously Fish, which I last revised, will give the references if anyone is interested. I believe all these works are available free online. Here's the direct link:
http
/www.seriouslyfish.com/species/corydoras-splendens/
And before someone says, "it is still Brochis on Planet Catfish,"...yes, it is. The taxonomic data on PC is sometimes a bit confusing. That doesn't affect the quality of the site, and it is still a wealth of information on catfish. Taxonomic classification is a complex subject, and it often takes some time before changes are widely accepted. In reverse, PC is sometimes too quick out of the box, as they have been with Rineloricaria and Hemiloricaria for example.
Byron.
First, Shifty1303, you mention rams "and tetra"...which tetras are you thinking of? Temperature has been mentioned here with respect to the corydoras species, and that's been sorted out (yes, Corydoras sterbai is the cory most often associated with discus, and wild angelfish, both of which need higher temperatures). But this impacts tetras (and any other fish) too. Many will not last at these warm temperatures.
Second, a taxonomic correction on the "Brochis" species. These (all three species) are now in the genus Corydoras. Phylogenetic analysis by several ichthyologists over the last decade or two has hinted that the family Corydoradinae needs significant revision. With respect to the three Brochis species, Britto (2003) first synonymised Brochis with Corydoras, on the basis that there are certain species in Corydoras that are more closely related to the three Brochis species than they are to congeners [congeners means the other species in Corydoras]. Britto suggested that considerably more study on the 100+ "corydoras" species would be necessary and advisable before species can be decidedly reassigned taxonomically in any meaningful relationship, so the obvious "easy fix" was to synonymize Brochis with Corydoras. All subsequent phylogenitic studies [Shimabukuro-Dias et al. (2004), Alexandrou et al. (2011), Alexandrou & Taylor (2011), etc] agreed. The California Acedemy of Sciences, Catalogue of Fishes, maintained by Dr. William Eschmeyer, is considered the authority on ichthyological taxonomy, and the former Brochis species are now Corydoras splendens, C. multiradiatus and C. Britskii.
To carry the story further, it is acknowledged by all that Brochis as a distinct genus will be resurrected once the taxonomic muddle in Corydoras is resolved. All phylogenetic works since Britto (2003) have identified nine distinct clades within the present Corydoras genus, which means there will be nine genera, one (that containing the type species first named Corydoras) of which will remain Corydoras, in the end. The "Brochis" species along with the several "Corydoras" species that are related by having evolved from the same last common ancestor, will take the name Brochis according to the rules of the International Code of Zoological Nomenclature which governs the naming of all animal species on earth; "Brochis" is the name first applied to one of these species as distinct, so that name takes precedence.
The entry for Corydoras splendens on Seriously Fish, which I last revised, will give the references if anyone is interested. I believe all these works are available free online. Here's the direct link:
http
/www.seriouslyfish.com/species/corydoras-splendens/And before someone says, "it is still Brochis on Planet Catfish,"...yes, it is. The taxonomic data on PC is sometimes a bit confusing. That doesn't affect the quality of the site, and it is still a wealth of information on catfish. Taxonomic classification is a complex subject, and it often takes some time before changes are widely accepted. In reverse, PC is sometimes too quick out of the box, as they have been with Rineloricaria and Hemiloricaria for example.
Byron.
Shifty1303
Fish Fanatic
A top source of information as always byron
Havent decided which tetras yet Tbh as yet to work out which would suit the rams best. Quite like ember tetras though
Havent decided which tetras yet Tbh as yet to work out which would suit the rams best. Quite like ember tetras though
Shifty1303 said:A top source of information as always byron
Havent decided which tetras yet Tbh as yet to work out which would suit the rams best. Quite like ember tetras though
Thanks. On the tetras, just be aware of the higher temperature. As you mention Embers, Hyphessobrycon amandae, the reliable sources suggest the range 24-28C/75-82F so this seems OK. This species is more upper water column too, which is nice, as the rams are lower.
I will just mention some species which are frequently combined with rams, since they do well in similar water. Cardinal tetra (Parachierodon axelrodi), or even better its close relative the false or green neon (P. simulans) which occurs in even warmer waters. These seem to prefer mid-tank, so another nice mix on that score. Then there is the brilliant rummynose tetra, Hemigrammus bleheri, which manages in warmer water and prefers the lower third of the aquarium.
Now this is only one option, and not intended to impose upon you, but I offer this simply to show the sort of factors to keep in mind when considering a community tank. First is temperature, which we have dealt with above. Second is water flow...all species mentioned prefer quiet water, so they do well in tanks with sponge filters or a canister that can be turned down, i.e., a hang-on-back is less serviceable here, and you do not want strong currents. Think of a pond or lagoon situation. Third, water column level: Embers upper half, cardinals or false neons mid-tank, rams and rummys lower third. Some bottom fish like one of the corys that can manage in warmer temperatures, unless you intend spawning the rams, as corys are very adept at eating eggs and fry especially during darkness. Fourth, water parameters--these species all come from much the same water. Fifth, the aquascape of their habitats is practically identical--lots of sunken wood, leaves, sand (mud to be authentic but we don't want that in an aquarium), low light best chieved with floating plants which also replicate the overhanging marginal vegetation.
Byron.
Shifty1303
Fish Fanatic
Dont worry about imposing upon me, I appreciate the advice as I always want to provide the best for my fish. So regarding that stocking suggestion what sort of numbers for each are we talking in a 110l? (closer to 90 after decor I reckon). Also what makes rummynose tetras so great? Sadly never kept them so what am I missing out on?
Also given the juwel internal column filter is what id be using can I just subdue it somehow with a spray bar or similar attached to the outlet? How do you normally calm the current while still maintaing lph for good water quality?
Thanks again,
Shifty
Also given the juwel internal column filter is what id be using can I just subdue it somehow with a spray bar or similar attached to the outlet? How do you normally calm the current while still maintaing lph for good water quality?
Thanks again,
Shifty
Shifty1303 said:Dont worry about imposing upon me, I appreciate the advice as I always want to provide the best for my fish. So regarding that stocking suggestion what sort of numbers for each are we talking in a 110l? (closer to 90 after decor I reckon). Also what makes rummynose tetras so great? Sadly never kept them so what am I missing out on?
Also given the juwel internal column filter is what id be using can I just subdue it somehow with a spray bar or similar attached to the outlet? How do you normally calm the current while still maintaing lph for good water quality?
Thanks again,
Shifty
Well, 110 litres is a 29g, and I happen to have one set up as an Amazonian blackwater tank for some of the fish we are discussing here, so I'll add a photo below. Again, this is just one option, there are others. You can have more plants, and leave out a bit of the wood. This aquascape has play sand, lots of wood, branches, dry leaf litter (replaced as needed). I have 64 fish in this tank at present; admittedly they are small species. It has a dual Elite sponge filter in the left rear behind that standing "tree," which is more than sufficient.
No rummynose tetra in my 29g, I have a group in my 115g. This is one of the best shoaling fish, by which I mean they are always together in a group.
Yes, a spray bar works well to dissipate flow. If these species of fish are having to fight a current, it will wear them out. As for numbers, obviously the pair of rams; make sure they are a bonded pair (I can explain if asked) or you may soon only have one. Ember Tetra, 9-12. Cardinals, 7-9; if the false neon, 10-12. If rummynose, 8-10.
Byron.
Attachments
Agree, I love my Juwel, looks stunningAkasha72 said:
http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/416184-new-project-juwel-vision-180-planted-journal/I used to run two spray bars across the rear of the aquarium. Now I have an Ehiem Lily Pipe on one side and have moved the other spray bar (having shortened it) to the right side if the aquarium, pointing slightly downward. I feel this gives a better overall flow, along with a calmer section on the side with the lily pipe. That said, the fish seem to love hanging out more in the flow, apart from the hockeystick pencils who love being in the corner near the spray bar, seem to be a shy species.Shifty1303 said:Dont worry about imposing upon me, I appreciate the advice as I always want to provide the best for my fish. So regarding that stocking suggestion what sort of numbers for each are we talking in a 110l? (closer to 90 after decor I reckon). Also what makes rummynose tetras so great? Sadly never kept them so what am I missing out on?
Also given the juwel internal column filter is what id be using can I just subdue it somehow with a spray bar or similar attached to the outlet? How do you normally calm the current while still maintaing lph for good water quality?
Shifty
I'm sat thinking about the way the Juwel filter works on the 800 and trying to work out how you would change the outlet for a spray bar and to be honest I just don't think it's do-able on this tank.
What can be done is to turn the outlet nozzle towards the rear wall slightly. It's designed though to be pointing upwards so it has plenty of surface movement.
My 800 had lots of different occupants over the years. It's had platies in it, guppies, Bolivian rams, laetacara curvicep cichlids, my EBR's, oto's, cories... at one stage it contained 18 laetacara curvicep fry and never once did I have a problem with the flow being too much for the fish. I even had it running with small cory fry and they really don't like flow at all but they all survived. I honestly can not see how the flow would be a problem for the stock you are considering. I'll use the old saying ... "If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it"
What can be done is to turn the outlet nozzle towards the rear wall slightly. It's designed though to be pointing upwards so it has plenty of surface movement.
My 800 had lots of different occupants over the years. It's had platies in it, guppies, Bolivian rams, laetacara curvicep cichlids, my EBR's, oto's, cories... at one stage it contained 18 laetacara curvicep fry and never once did I have a problem with the flow being too much for the fish. I even had it running with small cory fry and they really don't like flow at all but they all survived. I honestly can not see how the flow would be a problem for the stock you are considering. I'll use the old saying ... "If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it"
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