Unpopular Opinions (fish related)

Some people do way too many water changes. I change my 10-gallon heavily live planted betta sorority with 8 fish and tuns of snails every month or so and top off the water as needed. Parameters are all at 0.

You may need to change more often due to tannins, a lack of live plants, no filter, waist build-up, pristine parameter fish and inverts, a newly established aquarium, or heavy stocking though.
 
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You can have a betta sorority in as low as a 10-gallon. I have 8 female bettas in a 10-gallon with no filter. I top the water off as needed and do a water change every month or so.. There is a queen bee betta who makes sure no fights break out. No aggression whatsoever. Everyone is happy and eats together. I feed frozen shrimp, worms, and larvae. They get live mosquito larvae in the summer.


The following goes for all sororities:
The tank MUST be HEAVILY live planted.
The bettas MUST get along. Have backup tanks if all else fails.
Get your fish from the SAME breeder. Get fish that have been RAISED TOGETHER.
The tank MUST have LOTS of hiding places.
Try to introduce them around the SAME TIME.
Watch your sorority VERY closely, especially during feeding time.
 
Aquariums don't need a filter.

Reason 1 you have a heavily live planted aquarium.
Reason 2 you have a really really really big aquarium and very very very little fish.
Yes and no.
I do agree with that to an extent but some fish require fast moving waters. Hillstream loaches (Beaufortia kweichowensis) are one good example. They live in high flowing streams of the tropical Asian rainforests.

Then you have some fish that produce a lot of waste. Not only will filters help catch some of the waste in the tank (fish produced or not), but they also carry a lot of beneficial nitrifying bacteria.
When biological debris starts to rot, it can produce Ammonia (NH³) and/or Carbon Dioxide (CO²) , then there are Nitrosomonas bacteria that oxidze the ammonia into Nitrite (NO²-). This is where Nitrobacter converts the Nitrites (NO²-) into NitrAtes (NO³).
And yes all these bacteria reside in other places as well. The substrate carries a lot, sometimes more than the filter. But as all the water runs through, my view is that the bacteria get "fed" by that water rushing through it and therefore can help a lot more than still water with large nitrifying bacteria colonies.

This is just my opinion on the situation
 
You can have a betta sorority in as low as a 10-gallon. I have 8 female bettas in a 10-gallon with no filter. I top the water off as needed and do a water change every month or so.. There is a queen bee betta who makes sure no fights break out. No aggression whatsoever. Everyone is happy and eats together. I feed frozen shrimp, worms, and larvae. They get live mosquito larvae in the summer.


The following goes for all sororities:
The tank MUST be HEAVILY live planted.
The bettas MUST get along. Have backup tanks if all else fails.
Get your fish from the SAME breeder. Get fish that have been RAISED TOGETHER.
The tank MUST have LOTS of hiding places.
Try to introduce them around the SAME TIME.
Watch your sorority VERY closely, especially during feeding time.
While the last one you did of no filter was an opinion this is a fact that you CAN NOT keep that many bettas (male or female) in that small of a tank.
First of all space. Not enough space at all. They need territories. Just cause you don't see aggression doesn't mean that there are not pheromones being let out to show territory and that can be stressful.

I'm sure if you were locked into a tight space with 8 other ladies you would be upset.

And for the tank to be stocked that heavily you NEED to be doing weekly 50%+ water changes.
You say that everything is 0 but the excess waste from food and fish excretion can be a bad sight as well as not healthy in a tank when there is too much.
Although you did say it was heavily planted
 
Yes and no.
I do agree with that to an extent but some fish require fast moving waters. Hillstream loaches (Beaufortia kweichowensis) are one good example. They live in high flowing streams of the tropical Asian rainforests.

Then you have some fish that produce a lot of waste. Not only will filters help catch some of the waste in the tank (fish produced or not), but they also carry a lot of beneficial nitrifying bacteria.
When biological debris starts to rot, it can produce Ammonia (NH³) and/or Carbon Dioxide (CO²) , then there are Nitrosomonas bacteria that oxidze the ammonia into Nitrite (NO²-). This is where Nitrobacter converts the Nitrites (NO²-) into NitrAtes (NO³).
And yes all these bacteria reside in other places as well. The substrate carries a lot, sometimes more than the filter. But as all the water runs through, my view is that the bacteria get "fed" by that water rushing through it and therefore can help a lot more than still water with large nitrifying bacteria colonies.

This is just my opinion on the situation
I did change the filter on my post to fast-moving water fish. Thx. :)
 
Some people do way too many water changes. I change my 10-gallon heavily live planted betta sorority with 8 fish and tuns of snails every month or 2 and top off the water as needed. Parameters are all at 0.
my tanks are understocked. I did do a water change on my 55 last week not because nitrates were up or pH was down, but because the driftwood tannins had browned the water again
 
While the last one you did of no filter was an opinion this is a fact that you CAN NOT keep that many bettas (male or female) in that small of a tank.
There are not many facts in the aquarium hobby, more opinions. Facts are based on scientific studies or something that is absolutely proven to be true. It is a fact that bettas are tropical fish and need a tropical temp to thrive. It is a fact that bettas have about 3sq ft of territory in the wild. Now, most of us don't house our single betta in nearly 40-gallon aquariums with no other inhabitance. How low can we go? A 2.5 gallon for a single betta is the general rule as it is the smallest you can properly heat and filter. Some would argue a 5, or even 10 gallon is the minimum.

Each betta technically has 1.25 gallons to itself and 10 shared gallons. Betta breeders CAN NOT have 2.5-10 gallon tanks for each betta. It's completely unfeasible. We only keep our breeders for a year or 2 before they can no longer breed and are sold to their new forever homes with nicely sized tanks. Ethical betta breeders will only sell their fish to buyers that have a minimum of 2.5-10 gallons for single females and all males or a minimum of 20-40 heavily live planted gallons for a female betta sorority.
First of all space. Not enough space at all. They need territories. Just cause you don't see aggression doesn't mean that there are not pheromones being let out to show territory and that can be stressful.
That's why I recommend backup tanks if any aggression is shown. Fin nips, dull coloring, missing scales, loss of apatite, small apatite, visible fights, flairing, shyness, chasing, attempted biting, weight loss, won't gain weight, stunted growth, clamped fins, hanging out in any specific portion of the tank including a hide, corner, top, midsection, and bottom, and won't eat with the group instead pics up leftovers are all signs of aggression in the tank. My bettas display none of these, and if they did they would be eminently removed. I have seen that each betta has its own sleeping spot. It may be on a specific leaf or in a certain spot on the ground, leading me to believe they do each have a little "bedtime territory".
I'm sure if you were locked into a tight space with 8 other ladies you would be upset.
It depends lol. If they were ladies I got along with, it was only for a short period of time, had lots of nice hang-out spots, and I had lots of good food its not so bad. Really, if you had a room that would fit a human as if it was a 10-gallon fitting a betta, you could float anywhere in the room, and there was chill paces topped to the ceiling, it would be a really big room.
And for the tank to be stocked that heavily you NEED to be doing weekly 50%+ water changes.
You say that everything is 0 but the excess waste from food and fish excretion can be a bad sight as well as not healthy in a tank when there is too much.
Although you did say it was heavily planted
Technically yes, but I get away with not doing so. My substrate is a blackish brown-colored Fluvle Stratum and the waist sinks inside down to the bottom and then feeds the plants, which I have a LOT of lol. My water is crystal clear and algae-free with parameters at 0.

The more I chat with you the more I find out I should have noted in my original post. :book:😂🤣
 
They tortured my other fish, mine were mean. 😥
Amount-owned, tank size, and improper or proper tank mates all play a role in success! I think they are really awesome fish. I don't think there is a bad fish out there though.
My neons were never really a problem when I still had them, my Harli Rasbora's caused more trouble.

I have neon, purple emperor and Columbian tetra living together - and never had any problems. They live with 1 guppy and have never bullied him - they've treated him like part of the family. I was told not to keep a single guppy but he is happy as Larry.

Oh how DARE you!
I had one sweet little thing in a tank by itself, all of it's friends had died, it had about five diseases, but every time i came up to the tank, it would come and see me and jiggle around at the front of the tank.

It was ma sweet little baby.

R.I.P Mizu and Mizutwo
 
Some people do way too many water changes. I change my 10-gallon heavily live planted betta sorority with 8 fish and tuns of snails every month or so and top off the water as needed. Parameters are all at 0.

You may need to change more often due to tannins, a lack of live plants, no filter, waist build-up, pristine parameter fish and inverts, a newly established aquarium, or heavy stocking though.
Unpopular for sure, but hopefully this thread can change that:


Facts are based on scientific studies or something that is absolutely proven to be true
Except science can’t prove anything.
 
Amount-owned, tank size, and improper or proper tank mates all play a role in success! I think they are really awesome fish. I don't think there is a bad fish out there though.
Usually just depends on how the fry were raised. Some “batches” are more aggressive than others just based off of that simple element.

Tank mates to play a crucial role in the temperament of neons, I must admit.
 
Unpopular for sure, but hopefully this thread can change that:

Ill reed that, thanks.
Except science can’t prove anything.
You know, you might be on to something. XD

But really, science proves a LOT. Real science-based opon facts, observing, and research- not a guessing game.
 
There are not many facts in the aquarium hobby, more opinions. Facts are based on scientific studies or something that is absolutely proven to be true. It is a fact that bettas are tropical fish and need a tropical temp to thrive. It is a fact that bettas have about 3sq ft of territory in the wild. Now, most of us don't house our single betta in nearly 40-gallon aquariums with no other inhabitance. How low can we go? A 2.5 gallon for a single betta is the general rule as it is the smallest you can properly heat and filter. Some would argue a 5, or even 10 gallon is the minimum.

Each betta technically has 1.25 gallons to itself and 10 shared gallons. Betta breeders CAN NOT have 2.5-10 gallon tanks for each betta. It's completely unfeasible. We only keep our breeders for a year or 2 before they can no longer breed and are sold to their new forever homes with nicely sized tanks. Ethical betta breeders will only sell their fish to buyers that have a minimum of 2.5-10 gallons for single females and all males or a minimum of 20-40 heavily live planted gallons for a female betta sorority.

That's why I recommend backup tanks if any aggression is shown. Fin nips, dull coloring, missing scales, loss of apatite, small apatite, visible fights, flairing, shyness, chasing, attempted biting, weight loss, won't gain weight, stunted growth, clamped fins, hanging out in any specific portion of the tank including a hide, corner, top, midsection, and bottom, and won't eat with the group instead pics up leftovers are all signs of aggression in the tank. My bettas display none of these, and if they did they would be eminently removed. I have seen that each betta has its own sleeping spot. It may be on a specific leaf or in a certain spot on the ground, leading me to believe they do each have a little "bedtime territory".

It depends lol. If they were ladies I got along with, it was only for a short period of time, had lots of nice hang-out spots, and I had lots of good food its not so bad. Really, if you had a room that would fit a human as if it was a 10-gallon fitting a betta, you could float anywhere in the room, and there was chill paces topped to the ceiling, it would be a really big room.



Technically yes, but I get away with not doing so. My substrate is a blackish brown-colored Fluvle Stratum and the waist sinks inside down to the bottom and then feeds the plants, which I have a LOT of lol. My water is crystal clear and algae-free with parameters at 0.

The more I chat with you the more I find out I should have noted in my original post. :book:😂🤣
The point I'm making is that when I think about it, 8 3-4 inch fish in a 10g is just too much. Seems and feels like torture...
 

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