Treatments

CFC

Leader of the Fishes
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I have been fighting a losing battle with hair algea in my 75g for nearly a year now and over the weekend finaly gave in to trying a chemical treatment,now the problem,due to the large size and appetites of my fish the nitrates build up very quickly,and as my tapwater has a reading of 60ppm nitrate they can get pretty high so i have to do water changes 2-3 times a week.How long do treatments remain active for?Obviously i dont want to treat the tank and then just remove the treatment with a water change but on the other hand i dont want my nitrates getting so high they become a problem.If anyone has any idea on this question,on how to reduce nitrates or on ways to beat hair algea (please dont say algea eaters though as my fish will eat them) please let me know :)

thanks Dean
 
what about getting some R.O water doing a 50% water change then adding your chemicals you can either buy an R.O unit or buy some R.O water from your lfs. This way you wouldn't have to do a water for aleast a week giving your chemicals time to work hope this might work but it's only an idea! cheers Tymm
 
I use RO water in my other tank which is smaller but in the 75g a 50% water change would cost me £21 :hyper: I would get my own unit but our place is rented and i probably wouldn't be allowed to fit one :no:
 
lfs means local fish shop,i've not heard of hair algea being affected by temperature but i shall deffinately look into it. :)
 
The tank does recieve a small ammount of sunlight in the morning but not directly,what is a phosphate pad?i am presuming that its a pad that removes phosphates,would it harm my plants (probably should have mentioned its a planted tank before :*).
 
RO water is reverse osmosis water, basically it's water that has been cleaned of everything except pure water. This is done by forcing it though a very fine membrane. It really takes everything out so you have to add minerals back in (different amounts, depending on what fish you have). You buy the minerals that you put back in, or some lfs do it for you for a small charge.
 
Hi their, just ran across this product on the internet and figured I would show it to you. Maybe you already looked into it , but it sounds good.

Algone takes a natural approach in reducing nitrate levels in fresh and saltwater tanks. Microorganisms contained within the pouch will feed off nitrogen compounds as soon as activated by submerging the pouch in the water. The absorbed nitrogen compounds are transformed into micro bacterial protein, without leaching them back into the tank. Frequent (daily/ weekly/ or high volume) water changes can be avoided in order to bring the tank back in balance. A regular maintenance of changing the water (10-15% every other week) should be maintained, as other nutrients need to be replenished or removed.

Algone takes a natural approach in reducing nitrate levels in fresh and saltwater tanks.

More About Algone>>>
 
William had also mentioned that a uv sterilizer reduced the algae bloom in his koi pond, although I don't know that hair algae would respond to it that well because it is so plant like. The only other suggestion is to get ' a real big carp' :D I remember reading in another post that you had fish that would eat siamese kitty fish. I will ponder the subject further but I have some pre-cal and physics to finish , Chat later .
 
O.K. here is one last option, don't know how much it may smell though. maybe you could grind it up and stuff it in a ladies stocking and soak it in the tank.

A new method of controlling algae has been developed by the Centre for Aquatic Plant Management which overcomes many of these problems. This involves the application of barley straw to water and has been tested in a wide range of situations and in many countries throughout the world and has proved to be very successful in most situations with no known undesirable side-effects. It offers a cheap and environmentally acceptable way of controlling algae in water bodies ranging from garden ponds to large reservoirs, streams, rivers and lakes.

Despite the simplicity of the idea, experience has shown that there are a number of basic rules which must be followed to ensure that the straw works successfully. The purpose of this leaflet is to provide practical advice on the optimum ways of using straw.

HOW STRAW WORKS

In order to use straw effectively, it is necessary to understand something of how the process works. When barley straw is put into water, it starts to rot and during this process a chemical is released which inhibits the growth of algae. Rotting is a microbial process and is temperature dependent, being faster in summer than in winter. As a rough guide, it may take 6-8 weeks for straw to become active when water temperatures are below 10oC but only 1-2 weeks when the water is above 20oC. During this period, algal growth will continue unchecked. Once the straw has started to release the chemical it will remain active until it has almost completely decomposed. The duration of this period varies with the temperature and the form in which the straw is applied and this will be discussed in more detail later; However, as a generalization, straw is likely to remain active for approximately six months, after which its activity gradually decreases.

Although the exact mechanism by which straw controls algae has not been fully proven we believe that the process may occur as follows. When straw rots, chemicals in the cell walls decompose at different rates. Lignins are very persistent and are likely to remain and be released into the water as the other components decay. If there is plenty of oxygen available in the water, lignins can be oxidized to humic acids and other humic substances. These humic substances occur naturally in many waters and it has been shown that, when sunlight shines onto water which contains dissolved oxygen, in the presence of humic substances, hydrogen peroxide is formed. Low levels of peroxide are known to inhibit the growth of algae and experiments have shown that sustained low concentrations of hydrogen peroxide can have a very similar effect on algae to that of straw. Peroxides are very reactive molecules and will only last in water for a short time. However, when humic substances are present, peroxides will be continuously generated whenever there is sufficient sunlight. The slow decomposition of the straw ensures that humic substances are always present to catalyze this reaction. There are various factors which affect the performance of straw and which support this hypothesis. It is important to take these factors into account to ensure successful treatment of algal problems with straw.

1: Type of Straw

Barley straw works more effectively and for longer periods than wheat or

other straws and should always be used in preference to other straws. If barley is unavailable, other straws, including wheat, linseed, oil seed rape, lavender stalks and maize can be used as a substitute. The information in this leaflet describes the use of barley straw. If other straws are used, it is likely that the quantities applied and frequency of application may have to be increased. We have tested a range of barley straw varieties, including some grown organically; all these were active at the same level. Hay and green plant materials should not be used because they can release nutrients which may increase algal growth. Also they rot very rapidly and may cause de-oxygenation of the water.
 
Thanks for the advise ginger,i've seen bales of barley straw used to prevent green water in the lakes that i fish but had never thought to use it in my tanks.You say that humic acid is a product of using barley,would this affect the PH and hardness of my water?And would any ammount of hydrogen peroxide be safe in the confines of a 75g (300 litres as US gallons are different to ours)?The algone product you mentioned sounds interesting but unfortunately these things seem to take years to reach the UK,we still dont have bio-wheels! :eek:
I did a small 20% water change yesterday and treated the fresh the fresh water with the anti algea treatment,whether or not this will have any adverse affects on how it works i dont know?
I'm told that the algea will go if i can reduce the nitrates down to under 20ppm so this is the area im going to concentrate on for the moment although i think a substancial cash outlay is going to be the only way forward. :(
 

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