Treatment Of Ich (ick) With Rid Ich+

ny2oz

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Here's the story. I've been using Aquari-sol for years as a weekly preventative. I've always had a healthy tank. But, I got 3 cherry Barbs from wonderful Petco (where their bettas are always half dying), and brought them back in my new 36 gallon setup (I cycled properly...transering from a 12 gallon). Next day 1 barb was dead, the other two had ich. I returned all 3, and, a couple of days later one of my Bosemani Rainbows had a tiny bit of Ich. I used a half does of the crap tablets you find in Wal-Mart for Ich, and actually made it go away. So its been a week or so now, and one of my Neons has Ich bad, and 3 or 4 other fish are showing light signs of Ich. SO, I followed directions on Aquari-sol, last night, since it says it can be used as a preventative and a treatment. It says remove carbon filter, turn temp up to 85, and put in 12 drops per 10 gallons, and repeat every 24 hours til gone, and then wait 24 hours before replacing carbon filter. This morning I checked, same story, nothing more, nothing less.

ANyone had any experience with Aquari-sol working...or not working? If so, or, if not...what is the next best thing that is easy to find? I live in NJ, USA.
 
Don't use aquari sol weekly. You only need to use a whitespot med once fish break out in whitespot.

Do a water change and run some black carbon.
I would use another whitespot med, as the fish that have been in the tank a while might have built a resistance up to the med.

Have you raised temp to 30 and increased aeration.
 
Don't use aquari sol weekly. You only need to use a whitespot med once fish break out in whitespot.

Do a water change and run some black carbon.
I would use another whitespot med, as the fish that have been in the tank a while might have built a resistance up to the med.

Have you raised temp to 30 and increased aeration.


I have raised to to 85 degrees (approx. 30 celcius) last night.

I will be going to get new meds tonight...any suggestions on a "good one"? Most require you to remove carbon filter..so I should replace it?
 
Here some brands.
Make sure you can use the full dose with the fish you keep. Neons are very sensitive to whitespot meds.


Treatment:

Carry out a 25%-40% partial water change and treat immediately with either Quick Cure (which is highly effective), or Rid-Ich, Rid-Ick+, Ick Guard, Ick Guard II, Clout and Super Ick Cure. In very hard water the treatment should be performed two times a day, in the early morning and late at night. Since the protozoan, while attached to the host is immune to treatment, this has to be aimed against the free swimming stages. Slowly raising the water temperature to 90 degrees (if the fish can tolerate it) for a few hours every 2 or 3 days may be effective.

Ich is highly contagious, therefore, the entire aquarium and not just a single fish should be treated.
 
Here some brands.
Make sure you can use the full dose with the fish you keep. Neons are very sensitive to whitespot meds.


Treatment:

Carry out a 25%-40% partial water change and treat immediately with either Quick Cure (which is highly effective), or Rid-Ich, Rid-Ick+, Ick Guard, Ick Guard II, Clout and Super Ick Cure. In very hard water the treatment should be performed two times a day, in the early morning and late at night. Since the protozoan, while attached to the host is immune to treatment, this has to be aimed against the free swimming stages. Slowly raising the water temperature to 90 degrees (if the fish can tolerate it) for a few hours every 2 or 3 days may be effective.

Ich is highly contagious, therefore, the entire aquarium and not just a single fish should be treated.


THanks..will do. I read alot of other posts too. I have rainbow bosemani's, neons, glo-lights, and coreys too. They seem to be ok now at 85..but i'll try raising to 90 for a couple hours at a time, and do the water change and treatment with new stuff starting tonight. Thanks!
 
You need to keep temp stable or fish get stressed and causes deseased.
Good Luck.
 
You need to keep temp stable or fish get stressed and causes deseased.
Good Luck.


Thanks. well, im keeping it steady t 85...should I lower it? My guppy is hanging about the bottom not really swimming. Day 2, already lost 2 neons, hope I dont loose anymore.
 
Here's the story. I've been using Aquari-sol for years as a weekly preventative.

This is your culprit right here. The reason it is not working is because you've successfully cultured yourself a colony of aquari-sol resistant bugs. The weekly "good luck charm" may have killed off the vast majority of the bugs each week, but if only a few survived -- the few that naturally would be slightly more immune to the medication than the rest of its mates -- then they grew and when the next week's "good luck charm" was dosed again the resistant ones would survive.

Over time, you've created a colony that has been bred specifically to be resistant to that medication. Especially since ich's lifecycle is only about 3 days at tropical temperatures!

Another example of is the overuse of antibiotics that as created strains of bacteria that are resistant to darn near everything. Staph infections used to annoying infections you'd get sometimes in the hospital, but they were curable and that was that. Today, if you get a staph infection, you better hope and pray that it isn't one of those strains that are virtually invulnerable to all known medications.

There is no medication you or your pets need as a "preventative". (Unless of course, prescribed to you by an M.D. or vet for a legit medical reason.) The consequences are that the bugs that cause the diseases very easily adapt and spread that acquired immunity around.

To cure your problem, you need to find an ich medicine that doesn't have the same ingredients as the aquari-sol you have been using.

I also sincerely hope that you will take up the responsibility to do your absolute best to make sure that the strain you have cultured there doesn't get out. That you will never share fish from that tank with others, and you will never share plants or decorations or equipment from that tank unless they are thoroughly dried out (ich cannot survive being dried out) or they sit in a completely fish-free tank for several weeks (again, ich's life cycle is about 3 days at tropical temperatures and they have to have fish to parasatize off of to survive, so no fish in the tank = no ich). It would even be nice if you took special care of the water you take out of the tank -- specifically, don't just send it down the drain if you can help it. If you can pour it on the ground or somewhere else there is zero chance of it getting to fish, that would be best. The goal here is to try to keep these bugs out of the water system where it may reach any fish at any point.

I certainly can't make you do this, but I can ask that you try. It would be really, really good for the aquarium community if this strain did not get out and be resistant to one of the more potent medicines at our disposal.

I'd also ask you to read through this page: http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/ich.shtml which is the best resource about ich I have ever seen on the web. There is talk in there about strains that have other kinds of resistance -- like some strains that are resistant above 90 *F today -- and talks about why you need to understand the lifecycle of ich to know how to treat your tank effectively. It also addresses many of the common myths and truths about ich. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask in the forum or PM me.
 
I realize that "preventative" was a bad idea...but the Ich came from new fish. I did read that entire web site and I am doing everything properly. Yes, I am emptying water nto the ground, not into my plumbing system...although I dont have city water. I am treating with Rid Ich +..and although 2 neons are gone, I am hoping for the best, and have my temp at about 86 now.
 
I realize that "preventative" was a bad idea...but the Ich came from new fish. I did read that entire web site and I am doing everything properly. Yes, I am emptying water nto the ground, not into my plumbing system...although I dont have city water. I am treating with Rid Ich +..and although 2 neons are gone, I am hoping for the best, and have my temp at about 86 now.


Just a little advice to see if my fish are "stressed"...

I had my tank at 85degrees F, bought Rid Ich+ and been treating for 3 days, doing every 24 hours, where the second day I did every 12 hours. I do 20-25% water change before treatment, and took out carbon from filter. Duyring water changed I vaccuum gravel. I lost 2 neons, a guppy and an albino during the process since the Ich showed. Now, after 3 days, it seems just 1 more neon has ick..a good amount too, but the other fish do not. I know not to stop treating for at least 3 days after signs are gone. But, the guppy and albino catifsh didnt have signs of white spots..just got lethargic the day or so before it died....I don't want more fish to die because of something i'm doing wrong rather than the disease itself..any questions? I have a 36 gallon, but with the rocks, filter, and plants, and tetras (neons and glo-lights), i'm doing exact measurement treatment evert time for 30 gallons of water...easier to measure a round number too.
 
Parasites can cause bacterial infections.

Soak there food in garlic juice to boost there immune system.
 
I would just soak there food in the garlic juice.
 

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