The journal of my new tank (suggested by someone on the thread)

[Aquavulpes8]

ok can you recommend something similar (I'm used to that style filter) that is relatively cheap(somewhat tight buggit)

 

[Aquavulpes8]

ok can you recommend something similar (I'm used to that style filter) that is relatively cheap(somewhat tight buggit)

preferably with a filter arm

 

[Essjay]

I use Eheim filters but unfortunately they are not the cheapest. The Aquaball 130 would be suitable for your tank. it doesn't come with a spray bar but there is one available as an optional extra.
I have used the smallest of these filters in a 25 litre tank (ignore the default image, there are three sizes). I threw away the carbon pellets which sit in a hollow in the sponge and filled the space with sponge from the previous filter. It does include an optional, small spray bar.

Aqua Internal Filter

Aqua Range Aqua Internal Filters have a dual action filter cartridge, contained within the filter, consisting of the 3 forms of filtration: mechanical, biological and chemical. The fully open structure filter foam provides optimal mechanical filtration an

www.fishkeeper.co.uk

The main thing to avoid is the type of filter which contains carbon filled cartridges. A filter with sponge media is the better type.

 

[PheonixKingZ]

I really like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NJ28T1X/?tag=ff0d01-20

It has an adjustable flow, so it won’t overpower your fish.

——

Did you put the vinegar on the glass and then scrub it?

I would let it sit over night, that should do it.

 

[Essjay]

I'm not a big fan of HOB filters simply because they were almost unheard of here when I started keeping fish; it was internals or externals (canister) filters and I'm used to internals now.

With HOB filters, make sure they don't have just carbon cartridges, as for internals.

 

[PheonixKingZ]

I'm not a big fan of HOB filters simply because they were almost unheard of here when I started keeping fish; it was internals or externals (canister) filters and I'm used to internals now.

With HOB filters, make sure they don't have just carbon cartridges, as for internals.

For my HOB I have the following, listed from top to bottom:

• Seachem Sponge
• Floss
• Floss with carbon
• Course Media (Seachem Rocks)
• Tetra Sponge (for the BB from my old internal filter)

This thing is super powerful, but not in an overwhelming way. It keeps my water crystal clear even though I have a BNP, Corys, and snails.

It has an adjustable flow, which is not that common in HOB filters. It also has a huge media bay.

—

It’s a personal preference really. I was a big fan of internal filters... until I discovered the Tidal.

 

[Aquavulpes8]

ok I've tried everything this glass wont clean (the dirt is on the outside) is it ok to not clean the outside as the fish wont have this dirt in contact with them and when wet/water is on the inside the dirt is not visible (i know i sound lazy RN but i scrubbed that tank for hours just about everyday for 2 weeks) (my parents wont let me use a razor blade/Stanley knife) please please tell me your input before the room its going in is done (3-6 weeks possibly longer) otherwise the tank will be out of my hands and my parents will force me to set it up

 

[WhistlingBadger]

Dirt on the outside won't hurt the fish. I haven't read the thread so pardon me if you've already explained, but is it lime scale or actual dirt? Have you tried white vinegar?

 

[Aquavulpes8]

Yep white vinegar is exactly what I used and I dont know if its lime scale or dirt (probably lime scale) also there are pictures further back so you might be able to tell me what you think

 

[ArmchairAquariest]

If the glass is really cloudy and vinegar + scrubbing doesn't really clean it up you may have full on "hazing," which is a small physical damage/roughing of the surface that can't be fixed with things as simple as vinegar. The only good fix for hazing is giving it a good polish with like cerium chloride abrasive and lots of elbow grease to actually get the surface smooth again. If you go that route that has to be done early on in your cleaning as you want to make sure to get all of the cerium chloride and such back out before you are even close to putting something alive in there.

Some people are saying "bleach," and while you certainly can safely clean with bleach as long as you are very thorough on rinsing it out afterwards, you can usually use food-grade concentrated hydrogen peroxide to achieve all the same cleaning functions as bleach and it is much safer for living things. For instance most bleaches have a bunch of other surfactants and additives in them that persist longer then you might think or be able to clean for to remove. Bleach and any additives are not chemicals found much in nature, but hydrogen peroxide is naturally occurring and so most organisms actually have evolved to deal with any small left-over traces of hydrogen peroxide that might persist -- this is not true of bleach or its additives. Hydrogen peroxide also eventually breaks down on its own into oxygen and water leaving nothing unnatural or dangerous behind, this is not true of bleach especially if it has additives.

 

[Aquavulpes8]

have the tank stand and tank is as clean as I can get it just got to get some other stuff and It will be good to go (also got to get some driftwood tank safe and rocks)

 

[Aquavulpes8]

Sorry I went dead on here but here is an update I now have 2 20 gallons (roughly) and sold the 6 gallon both tanks are up and running waiting for it to cycle then I will be off to the fish store to get some fish

 

[Aquavulpes8]

Here are the tanks

 

[Aquavulpes8]

So I may have forgot about this (oops) but here are the tanks

 

[Aquavulpes8]

Also my guppies already had some fry so here is one of them