TwoTankAmin
Fish Connoisseur
First, the plants which will come with bacteria on them need to be aquatic plants. These will host the nedded bacteria on their leaves, stems and even roots.
There are little or no nitrobacter in aquariums. These need much more ammonia to thrive than a tank creates. Nitrobacter are found if waste treatment plants and in other high ammonia level situations. The nitrite oxidizers in tanks are Nitrospira. It was discovered a few years back that they are also able to process ammonia stiiaght through to nitrate. Byron linked to the two papers by Tim Hovanec et al. I have read all three of his papers on the topic as well as many other which support that research.
Almost all of the cycling products on the market do not contain the proper bacteria and in a case like stability they contain no live bacteria at all. The nitrifying bacteria do not form spores.
Generally, the bacteria want ammonia as NH3- the nasty toxic form. Some can use the ammonium (NH4 which is way less toxic) but they do so much less efficiently. So what is happening in your tank is they are there and working, but pretty slowly.
You need to get the pH up. That is what is slowing things. To do this you need to get the KH up. This means adding carbonates/bicarbonates. The easiest was to do this is with crushed coral or other similar materials, like aragonite. You put it in a mesh bag and either place it inside a filter or hand it in the tank where there will be water flowing through it. The acidity in water causes the coral to dissolve and since is is calcium carbonate it raises the KH which will raise the pH.
The problem is that crushed coral is used most often as a substrate and it comes in big bags. I got mine in 2002 and I will be dead before I use it up. I used about 1/2 cup in 50 gal. tank. I also use it when I am running my biofarm for cycling filters. When you are cycling a lot of filters in a small tank, the process eats through KH very fast. I will have 2 or 3 bags of coral in the tank to prevent a slowing or stalling of the cycling.
You may be able to borrow some coral from saltwater keepers of folks who keep rift lake cichlids. You may be able to get a local fish store to sell or give you a small amount as a 26 lb. bag is way more that you need or will use. If you lived in the states I would be happy to sent you a small amount in the mail. But to our friend to the north the delivery time would be way to slow to help fast.
Once observation. Crushed coral may make a bit of cloudiness int he water at first. Don't worry it will clear pretty fast. I would not add anything else at this time. If getting the ph over 7 doesn't move things an touu want to seed bacteria the only products I suggest would Be Dr. Tim's On and Only or tetra's Safe Start or Safe Start Plus. Or, you can try and get media from a cyled tank. the risk with this is I would also come woth any potential nasties that might be in that tank water. You can also rinse out the bio-media from an established tank and get a similar boost (and risk). In the states one can also buy cycled filters from a few places.
There are little or no nitrobacter in aquariums. These need much more ammonia to thrive than a tank creates. Nitrobacter are found if waste treatment plants and in other high ammonia level situations. The nitrite oxidizers in tanks are Nitrospira. It was discovered a few years back that they are also able to process ammonia stiiaght through to nitrate. Byron linked to the two papers by Tim Hovanec et al. I have read all three of his papers on the topic as well as many other which support that research.
Almost all of the cycling products on the market do not contain the proper bacteria and in a case like stability they contain no live bacteria at all. The nitrifying bacteria do not form spores.
Generally, the bacteria want ammonia as NH3- the nasty toxic form. Some can use the ammonium (NH4 which is way less toxic) but they do so much less efficiently. So what is happening in your tank is they are there and working, but pretty slowly.
You need to get the pH up. That is what is slowing things. To do this you need to get the KH up. This means adding carbonates/bicarbonates. The easiest was to do this is with crushed coral or other similar materials, like aragonite. You put it in a mesh bag and either place it inside a filter or hand it in the tank where there will be water flowing through it. The acidity in water causes the coral to dissolve and since is is calcium carbonate it raises the KH which will raise the pH.
The problem is that crushed coral is used most often as a substrate and it comes in big bags. I got mine in 2002 and I will be dead before I use it up. I used about 1/2 cup in 50 gal. tank. I also use it when I am running my biofarm for cycling filters. When you are cycling a lot of filters in a small tank, the process eats through KH very fast. I will have 2 or 3 bags of coral in the tank to prevent a slowing or stalling of the cycling.
You may be able to borrow some coral from saltwater keepers of folks who keep rift lake cichlids. You may be able to get a local fish store to sell or give you a small amount as a 26 lb. bag is way more that you need or will use. If you lived in the states I would be happy to sent you a small amount in the mail. But to our friend to the north the delivery time would be way to slow to help fast.
Once observation. Crushed coral may make a bit of cloudiness int he water at first. Don't worry it will clear pretty fast. I would not add anything else at this time. If getting the ph over 7 doesn't move things an touu want to seed bacteria the only products I suggest would Be Dr. Tim's On and Only or tetra's Safe Start or Safe Start Plus. Or, you can try and get media from a cyled tank. the risk with this is I would also come woth any potential nasties that might be in that tank water. You can also rinse out the bio-media from an established tank and get a similar boost (and risk). In the states one can also buy cycled filters from a few places.
