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Stress or illness?

pednurkim

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I am hoping someone has some information on wether this is tress related or illness. It is the only fish in the tank with any sign of anything wrong. A few days ago, I had to remove a fish because of increasing aggression, which put the tank into some stress. This fish was hiding for a couple days, but still eating. I noticed the loss of color area when it was hiding. It's overall color is a little more intense than usual, especially the black edging of the fins. Now it is out swimming and eating like normal, but the loss of color area seems slightly larger. Is this just from stress or an illness. The dorsal fin seems fine. This is a 125 gallon tank with 4 species of rainbowfish, Congo tetras, cherry barbs, 1 pearl gourami, 1 electric blue acara, 2 Bristlenose plecos and 2 corys. It has been set up for about 10 months. Ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrates around 10-20. Water changes weekly. Temp 75.
 
I'm no expert but it looks a little like he's been stuck somewhere and lost a few scales. Maybe if you had an aggressive tank mate he may have gone in to hiding?
 
I'm no expert but it looks a little like he's been stuck somewhere and lost a few scales. Maybe if you had an aggressive tank mate he may have gone in to hiding?
I think you may be right. I was doing a water change and able to get some better pictures from above him. Should I put stress guard in the tank to help prevent infections?
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It possibly panicked at some point and / or got stuck somewhere and had to force its way out?
It should heal if the water is good. Stress guard might help…
 
The lacustris rainbowfish appears to have a physical injury on its back. This could be caused by getting stuck or it might have been attacked by another fish.

Do a big (75%) water change and gravel clean the substrate to reduce disease organisms in the water.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks to reduce disease organisms in the water.

You can add some salt to reduce infections.

---------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres (5 gallons) of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for 1-2 weeks.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
 
The lacustris rainbowfish appears to have a physical injury on its back. This could be caused by getting stuck or it might have been attacked by another fish.

Do a big (75%) water change and gravel clean the substrate to reduce disease organisms in the water.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks to reduce disease organisms in the water.

You can add some salt to reduce infections.

---------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres (5 gallons) of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for 1-2 weeks.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
Thank you! The only thing I haven't done is the salt yet. I now know what is happening with the rainbowfish. I saw my electric blue acara go at his back twice. So much for a more docile cichlid! It is only about 2 inches. I also saw it go after another rainbow. It does not like the turquoise rainbowfish. Maybe you will know, can I move the acara into my 55 gallon with tiger barbs, serpae tetras and silvertipped tetras? And will a kribensis be OK to move into the 125 gallon?
 
The blue acara is probably going after the blue rainbows because they are similar colours and the acara doesn't want competition in its territory.

Moving the acara into the smaller tank and the Kribensis into the rainbow tank is probably the best thing to do.
 
The blue acara is probably going after the blue rainbows because they are similar colours and the acara doesn't want competition in its territory.

Moving the acara into the smaller tank and the Kribensis into the rainbow tank is probably the best thing to do.
Thank you for the response. Both fish are moved and doing really well in their new tanks. The Kribensis seems happier and out in the open more in the 125 than he ever was in the 55. The acara is leaving all fish alone in the 55.
 

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