Some Advice On Readings

[cartandpeg]

Hi All,
in the past when I attempted to keep fish I gave up because I only checked the ph and was really unaware or ignorant more to the point of other changes in the tank,hence cloudy water and fish dying etc etc.

I suppose to be honest I have gone about it the same way with this new tank I have,the fish seem happy,the occasional flick on a rock or gravel,only when I feed them though,the fish congregrate at the front of the tank where the feed falls and the guppies seem to be the only ones who flick themselves during this time,then all comes good.

I just purchased a API master test kit and taken the below readings,I am also reading up about nitrates,ammonia etc etc.,could some one please point me in the right direction on what I need to do in regards to these readings.Tank has been running for a month and I put fish in over period of three weeks.

Tank size..78 ltr.....17 gallons
Plastic plants
5 guppies
6 neon tetras(small)
7 peppered corys(small)
2 mollies

Ammonia 3.0
Nitrite 0.25
Nitrate 0
Ph 7.6

Hope I done the readings right,I followed to intructions.
Changed 20% water three days ago.
I am probably guilty of some over feeding as well.

Thank you

Cart

 

[chipper_222]

Your Ammonia and Nitrite should always be kept below 0.25ppm. 3.0ppm for Ammonia is way to high....you will need to do frequent water changes to decrease this ammonia.

I would suggest doing at least 40-50% change asap, wait a few hours take another reading and maybe do a 20% change.

Cheers

Chip

 

[Corleone]

Spot on adivce. You're currently cycling with fish, so you may want to review this thread:
http/www.fishforums.net/content/New-to-t...eady-have-fish/

It will most likely take daily water changes of 20-30% to keep your levels below .25, for as much as a month to six weeks, but you'll want to test at least every twice a day (more frequently is a good idea until you're settled into a routine), and change as much as necessary.

There's also a list of people willing to donate mature media in the stickies of this section - you might want to check for somebody in your area who can help, as this will greatly shorten and possibly bypass the cycle.

 

[cartandpeg]

Thank you I have carried out water change and shall continue to do as the link provided said.

Thanks again.

Cart

 

[cartandpeg]

Ok I have done two water changes so far and the reading are still much the same.

Is it normal for a few of the fish to flick themselves on substrate after these water changes,it was mainly the peppered cory that was flicking,that lasted for about 15 secs and it seems good now.

Will continue to do changes.

Thank you

Cart

 

[Corleone]

Flicking can be a sign of external parasites like ich/whitespot. Illnesses aren't uncommon in fish-in cycling, especially when readings get out of control like this.

 

[cartandpeg]

Flicking can be a sign of external parasites like ich/whitespot. Illnesses aren't uncommon in fish-in cycling, especially when readings get out of control like this.

Should I add something to assist with this parasite problem or due to the constant water changes would it be not viable?

Thank you

Cart

 

[minxfishy]

Right now you need to concentrate on the water changes, 50% at a time, test an hour later is those levels are still not 0.25ppm or below do another 50% water change, remember to dechlor the water and match the temperture of the water being returned to tank to that of the tank water temperature so as not to cause any more stress to the fish at this stage.

If you medicate for ich all you will do is take the medication out on each w/c. The flicking could also be due to the ammonia burning their skin - you need to get it down and keep it down.

 

[Miss Wiggle]

Flicking can occur just after water changes sometimes, particles of waste get stirred up by the water change and irritate the fish's skin. If flicking is confined to just after water changes and there are no other symptoms of ich/parasites then don't worry about it.

But considering your water readings I would not be that surprised if you did get a health problem so monitor it very closely to see if it is just after water changes or not.

 

[cartandpeg]

Thank you,ammonia is slowly getting down, its down to 1.0 now with regular water changes.

On the weekend I usually take filters out and rinse in tank water(discarded) etc,should I still do this with the filters or wait untill my tank is stable.

Thank you in advance.

Cart

 

[Corleone]

It might be good to leave it until the tank's stable. I usually do that once a month, if I think about it. You don't lose much bacteria doing that, but you do lose some, and in a cycle you need all of them you can get.

 

[Miss Wiggle]

It might be good to leave it until the tank's stable. I usually do that once a month, if I think about it. You don't lose much bacteria doing that, but you do lose some, and in a cycle you need all of them you can get.

agreed, only do it if the flow rate from the filters is seriously reduced.

 

[NonstickRon]

Most of the people responding have more experience than I do. I'll start with that.

That said, 1ppm still being too high, personally I'd put something in there to detoxify the ammonia. Seachem PRIME seems to be a very trusted product that says right on the bottle it can be used during initial cycling. It won't remove the ammonia, your test kit will still show what lvl its at so you'll be able to see when it drops again on its own, but it will be detoxified so that it doesn't hurt the fish. The bacteria can still eat it. Some people say it slows down the initial cycling and that may be true...not sure about you, but in my own case since I was dumb and impatient enough to use fish instead of fishless cycling, I think the fish deserve all the help being comfortable that they can get.

Now, have you used your test kit to check your water source? The tap water at my work is 1ppm ammonia. If yours is similar, you'll want to be treating that before you put it in your tank anyway.

 

[gaz gun man]

you are adding dechlor to the new water arent you?

 

[cartandpeg]

Thank you for repsonses all,
I use Tri-Sart in my water to be replaced as per intsructions on the bottle.

I did do tests on both water sources that I have the tap water is as follows.

Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Amm 0.25
Ph 7.2

Rain water readings from food grade plastic rain water tank.

Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Amm 0
Ph 7.8.

I have been using the tap water and adjusting the Ph along with adding tri-start when I fill my containers,these sit overnight,I do 25ltr water change in morn then another in the late afternoon, only because my Amm is still up.

Would I be better going for the rain water,owing to the fact I live in small town there is no store to buy any products to assist with Amm,untill next time I go into town (90 klm round trip) which is not often.

Thank you

Cart