Slight haze in the tank

[Brentstarburst]

Hi,

I've been running a 110 litre tank for a couple months now and for better or worse (bad advice), it went through the Nitrogen Cycle fish in with 5 silver tipped tetras. All survived.

Daily testing with the API master test kit finally proved after 5 weeks, the cycle was completed. SO I added three plants at this stage.

I added 5 more silver tipped Tetras. Water looking lovely and clear.

All being well - a week later I added six corys - 3 x Julii Leopards and 3 x Peru Gold laser stripes and 4 snails to help with the algae.
(on a separate note, the 3 x gold laser are always hiding??)

Since then, there has been a constant haze for several weeks- nothing as bad as a bacterial bloom, but a slight haze which shows more at the rear. I am changing out about 35 litres every other week and I have gently rinsed out the filter in tank water (plus re-arranged the filtration to mechanical, biological and chemical) on a separate occasion. It uses an Aqua One Moray 700 filter.

I tried replacing the course sponge with a combination of course/medium/fine sponge, but this doesn't seem to have made any difference.

The parameters today look okay (see attached)

PH - 8-8.2
Ammonia 0.25
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 20-40ppm

The pictures I attach show the slight 'haze' in the back of the tank and I've included pictures of my other tank which is perfectly clear.

Anyone got any ideas? what I might have done or doing wrong?

 

[Bruce Leyland-Jones]

It should settle down in time.
Resist the urge to repeatedly wash your filter. Whilst beneficial bacteria does live elsewhere in the tank, it also lives in your filter and will do best undisturbed.
You could try adding a floss filter pad to the filter. These are cheap enough and act as a final 'polisher' for the filtered water.
Just be sure to use a conditioner to dechlorinate the water every time you use tap water.

NOTE that your three Java Fern and the plastic plants won't be contributing much to waste management...you'll need fast growing plants for that and floating plants are always a good start.
Your cories will be hiding because they need to be in larger groups than 3. I know you have 3 of each and that makes 6, but the fish themselves won't be fooled.

 

[Brentstarburst]

It should settle down in time.
Resist the urge to repeatedly wash your filter. Whilst beneficial bacteria does live elsewhere in the tank, it also lives in your filter and will do best undisturbed.
You could try adding a floss filter pad to the filter. These are cheap enough and act as a final 'polisher' for the filtered water.
Just be sure to use a conditioner to dechlorinate the water every time you use tap water.

NOTE that your three Java Fern and the plastic plants won't be contributing much to waste management...you'll need fast growing plants for that and floating plants are always a good start.
Your cories will be hiding because they need to be in larger groups than 3. I know you have 3 of each and that makes 6, but the fish themselves won't be fooled.

Thanks Bruce.

I just wondered if I was doing something wrong - the PH level worries me a bit, but I do live in a hard water region (Dorset). I do use AquaSafe whenever I put new tap water in. I do have a floss filter, so at the next water change, I'll add it.

I did wonder about the Corys - but the local aquarist assured me that grouping 2 groups of 3 would be fine. Hmmm. The Juliis are quite happy, but those gorgeous gold lasers aren't happy. Do you think I'd be okay to add three more to try and help them?

I'll look into floating plants - my wife wants to be the expert here and not sure where to look!

 

[Bruce Leyland-Jones]

I just wondered if I was doing something wrong - the PH level worries me a bit, but I do live in a hard water region (Dorset).

I was hoping that someone lse would respond, but it seems like I have to play Bad Cop again...your hard water really limits what fish you'll be able to successfully keep. Note that there's a marked difference between 'survive' and 'thrive'.
Check this site out, Seriously Fish, for details of fish and pay particularly close attention to the water required.

When your local aquarist made his statement about Corydorus, he was clearly speaking more about making a sale, than fish welfare.
I'd suggest returning the Gold Lasers and swapping them for three more Julii.

All that said, with hard water, your tetras won't be happy and are unlikely to last their full potential lifespan. Check this Aquarium CoOp video out for suggestions. (Your aquarist should've done this for you).

 

[Brentstarburst]

I was hoping that someone lse would respond, but it seems like I have to play Bad Cop again...your hard water really limits what fish you'll be able to successfully keep. Note that there's a marked difference between 'survive' and 'thrive'.
Check this site out, Seriously Fish, for details of fish and pay particularly close attention to the water required.

When your local aquarist made his statement about Corydorus, he was clearly speaking more about making a sale, than fish welfare.
I'd suggest returning the Gold Lasers and swapping them for three more Julii.

All that said, with hard water, your tetras won't be happy and are unlikely to last their full potential lifespan. Check this Aquarium CoOp video out for suggestions. (Your aquarist should've done this for you).

Thanks for the links - there's quite a few fish there that I planned on having down the line.

I've just tested the tap water for PH - and it's 7.0, so I've seen a rise to 8-8.2.

Will a water change assist with this or do I need to get something like PH Down?

 

[Bruce Leyland-Jones]

I've just tested the tap water for PH - and it's 7.0, so I've seen a rise to 8-8.2.

So something in your tank is making the water more alkaline.

Will a water change assist with this or do I need to get something like PH Down?

Until you determine what is causing the increase, no.
Granted, there are wonderful chemicals out there that certain shops would be only too happy to sell you...knowing that every single time you added water to the tank, you're going to have to mess with those chemicals again.
This is why we try to encourage people to get the fish that would thrive in the water, rather than get the water to match the fish you just happen to want.

You did say that you believed your tank was cycled...but you have an ammonia reading.
A tank is never, ever completely cycled...it's a continuous, ongoing process. When we say a tank is 'cycled', it means that the beneficial bacteria in the tank have grown to such an extent that they can manage fish waste products and keep the ammonia and nitrite levels down to zero.
Note that zero and only zero is an acceptable level in a tank with fish...the ammonia and nitrite actually burn the skin and gills.

Back to the plants, as I said, those slow-growing Java Fern may look nice, but they're next to useless in absorbing the nitrogen by-products of fish waste.

When plants grow, they will take nitrogen from the water, (from the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates) and use it for their growth. Obviously, the faster growing a plant is, the better it'll process those toxins. Floating plants are the best rescue remedy in many cases, simply because they'll do they job and all you have to do is to throw them into the tank and leave them to it.

That said, usually, if your tank is 40% to 60% planted, almost all of your waste management problems can disappear.
I made a list of plants, arranged in order of growth rate, here. You might find it useful.

 

[Brentstarburst]

So something in your tank is making the water more alkaline.

One of those Java Ferns is mounted on a big stone. I wonder if it's that? The other two are mounted on driftwood.

I shall try removal of the stone, plus a water change.

Thanks for the list of plants

 

[Caesar]

One of those Java Ferns is mounted on a big stone. I wonder if it's that? The other two are mounted on driftwood.

I shall try removal of the stone, plus a water change.

Thanks for the list of plants

You can determine the stones ability to impact pH by pouring some acetic acid (use vinegar) on the rock. If there's a reaction, such as fizzing or bubbling, then you know there's lime present which will increase your pH.

 

[Brentstarburst]

You can determine the stones ability to impact pH by pouring some acetic acid (use vinegar) on the rock. If there's a reaction, such as fizzing or bubbling, then you know there's lime present which will increase your pH.

I've just checked the pH of my smaller 55 litre tank, that has a level of 8.2 as well. Double checked and the tap water is 7.0

The only common denominator between the two is the Java Ferns and the wood/stone to which they're attached?

 

[Bruce Leyland-Jones]

One of those Java Ferns is mounted on a big stone. I wonder if it's that? The other two are mounted on driftwood.

I shall try removal of the stone, plus a water change.

Thanks for the list of plants

You could also check that gravel.
Have two cups of tapwater and put gravel in one of them. Leave overnight and then test the pH.

 

[Caesar]

I've just checked the pH of my smaller 55 litre tank, that has a level of 8.2 as well. Double checked and the tap water is 7.0

The only common denominator between the two is the Java Ferns and the wood/stone to which they're attached?

Additionally, just on the off chance that it's collected driftwood or been used in a marine tank, that can also raise pH.

 

[WhistlingBadger]

Welcome! What kind of gravel are you using? I suspect either your gravel or your rocks are something of the limestone/dolomite type. Those will raise both your pH and your hardness over time. It is possible that your wood is doing it too, but not as likely. I too recommend the vinegar test.

As for the ammonia, Bruce is correct--0 is the only acceptable reading. Anything else indicates that your nitrogen cycle is not running yet. Is it possible for you to get some fast-growing plants? Those, along with water changes, will keep things under control until the beneficial bacteria catch up.

 

[Brentstarburst]

Welcome! What kind of gravel are you using? I suspect either your gravel or your rocks are something of the limestone/dolomite type. Those will raise both your pH and your hardness over time. It is possible that your wood is doing it too, but not as likely. I too recommend the vinegar test.

As for the ammonia, Bruce is correct--0 is the only acceptable reading. Anything else indicates that your nitrogen cycle is not running yet. Is it possible for you to get some fast-growing plants? Those, along with water changes, will keep things under control until the beneficial bacteria catch up.

Hi,

It's this gravel in the main tank : https://www.petsathome.com/shop/en/pets/pets-at-home-aquarium-gravel-natural-honey-colour-2kg

The smaller tank has a different gravel - I don't know the origin as it was secondhand.

The smaller tank doesn't have a rock - but is showing the same level of PH.

I'm doing a test at present where I've taken some tap water - and was advised to leave it for 24 hours and then test it to see what the PH is as it will gas off and potentially rise.

 

[woyzeck]

Your wedding photo is very nice.

 

[otterblue]

Since both of your tanks are near the window, is it possible they are getting a lot of sunlight? Sunlight will increase the photosynthesis of plants, thereby increasing oxygen levels and the pH of your tank.

EDIT: (Although, since you don't have many plants, perhaps this is not the reason.)