Should I Begin The Cycle Over...?

Troke

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In late July I began to set up a 10 gallon tank. I was familiar with the concept of fishless cycling a tank as I had successfully cycled this same 10 gallon tank a few years ago. I recently got into a situation where I am able to keep fish again so I wanted to start the process. I followed the cycling instructions found on this forum (as I had forgotten some of the specifics) and everything was going fine. I was able to bring the ammonia to the needed level and eventually I was getting nitrite readings. And soon enough the nitrite was reaching 0 within 48 hours so I figured I was close. ...Then my wife and had to go on a trip and were away for four days. I didn't think not supplying ammonia for four days would matter too much but when I returned and attempted to continue the process I found that the ammonia was taking days to go down to 0, not the 24 hours that I had gotten it to. So I thought perhaps this was just a short set back and I'd get it back on schedule after a bit... 
 
It is now, obviously, October with the same result. The ammonia takes 3 - 4 days to go to 0. There is never really any nitrite readings, I suppose because the nitrite is being created so slowly that any nitrite handling bacteria is getting rid of it as soon as it is there. What should I do?
 
Should I do a complete water change and try from the beginning? Perhaps the bacteria already in my tank and filter will speed up the process. Should I change any of my filter pieces as it has been months?
 
I would appreciate any advice.
 
Thank you all!
 
Hi. I'm there with you too...actually just trying to start mine off when ammonia is not available to us here is Australia.... the folks here are amazing with advice so hang in there and am sure they will chime in in no time. I will be following this one...best of luck.
 
MarcoPereira said:
Hi. I'm there with you too...actually just trying to start mine off when ammonia is not available to us here is Australia.... the folks here are amazing with advice so hang in there and am sure they will chime in in no time. I will be following this one...best of luck.
 
So many things are not allowed in Australia, imported food, certain types of FW fish, Indonesians, and yet it has one of the most dangerous population of animals and insects in the world; and you can't buy ammonia!? Amazing.
 
Re the original post: It certainly seems like something has gone wrong but I agree with you that it shouldn't have gone wrong in just four days. You don't say how long it was before you left for the four days but whenever it was the whole process (successful or not) seems to have taken a very long time. I wouldn't start again but I would review the calculations you made for the quantity of ammonia and I wouldn't clean th filter media or you will definitely be starting again.
 
Hello.  Sorry to hear about the cycling issue.  Short answer, no, don't start over.  Changing the water will not affect the cycling because the autotropic bacteria colonize on surfaces, such as filter media, and only a very small amount are suspended in the water column.
 
I need some more specific detail.
 
How much ammonina (ppm) are you putting in after it drops to 0 ppm?
What type of ammonia are you using?  What is the % ammonia on the bottle?  Are you measuring in the correct amounts?
If you're adding too much ammonia (usually over 8ppm per dose) you will begin to colonize a different type of bacteria and not the type we need in our filters.  
You should be putting no more than 5ppm of ammonia once the ammonia level drops to 0ppm.
 
What is your tank water temperature at?  I forget the exact number but I believe it's around 84 degrees F is ideal for fishless cycling since the bacteria's metabolism will speed up and they will colonize faster.
 
What type of filter do you have?  What is the GPM? What size tank?
 
What brand water tester are you using?
 
Thanks! :)

Please see attached file for ammonia dosage.

Here is an article on fishless cycling I wrote years back.  Sorry for any grammar or spelling issues.  I haven't proof read a lot of my writings lol.
 
[SIZE=12pt]Fishless cycling:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Since fish produce ammonia and since ammonia is what the Autotrophic bacteria need to start the nitrogen cycle, why can we not just buy a bottle of ammonia to simulate fish? [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]*It is a really good idea to start a log of your tank for a fishless cycle.*  So for each day you take a reading of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH, you can then put that in your log so you can see how the cycle is coming along.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Step 1:[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]  Buy a bottle of ammonia, usually ammonia comes in bottles with 9.5% or 10% diluted ammonia, both will work. Ammonia like this can usually be found at your local hardware store.  What is very important about what ammonia you select is that it must only contain ammonia and water.  Other additives will hinder the ammonia useless and will not allow the bacteria to grow.  If the bottle of ammonia does not list ingredients, then that bottle of ammonia is most likely okay to use, but to make sure give the bottle a good shake.  If the ammonia foams up, it is no good.  If there are a few air bubbles, then that is nothing to worry about.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Step 2: [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]Add up to 5 ppm of ammonia to your tank by looking at the table below.  It is very important that you add the ammonia on a 24 hour schedule. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Note: [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]If your tank size does not appear, then simply choose the tank size that is closest to yours.  Slight variations like this will not matter all that much.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Step 3: [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]Check the ammonia level by using your test kit to make sure you have added the correct amount of ammonia.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Step 4: [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]Check the ammonia level every day at the 24 hour mark.  If the ammonia at the 24 hour mark starts to go down, this means that you are starting to colonize bacteria that process ammonia.  At which point the nitrite level will begin to rise.  You can then use your nitrite test kit to monitor your nitrite level.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Step 5: [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]At the 24 hour mark, if your ammonia level is nearing 0 ppm, add ammonia back up to 5 ppm.  You will soon see that your ammonia level is dropping faster and faster and that your nitrite level is rising.  Over time, after adding ammonia back up to 5 ppm at the 24 hour mark for a couple weeks, you will begin to see your ammonia level will soon go down and hit 0 ppm at every 24 hour mark and your nitrite will be either rising, or starting to fall.  At this point your nitrate will start to rise.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Step 6:  [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]If your ammonia and nitrite are at 0 ppm every 24 hours, then it is time to start taking ammonia and nitrite readings every 12 hours.  So let’s say you add ammonia back up to 5 ppm at the 24 hour mark, and then 12 hours later you test your ammonia and nitrite, this is where you will be able to tell if your tank is cycled or not.  At this point, your nitrate level will be at a pretty high level, but do not worry about this yet.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]NOTE:[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt] It is VERY important to ONLY add ammonia at the original 24 hour mark!  Not the 12 hour mark!  If you are reading 0 ppm of ammonia at 12 hours, then wait until the 24 hour mark (12 hours later) to add ammonia back up to 5 ppm.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Step 7:[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt] Once your tank is reading 0 ppm of ammonia and 0 ppm of nitrite at 12 hours, (12 hours after the 24 hour mark) you are nearly there!  At this point, continue dosing ammonia up to 5 ppm at the 24 hour mark for one more week!  This last week is called the “qualification week.”  During this week you may have a slight nitrite spike; this is why you should always perform the “qualifying week.”  Once the week is over, and you are getting both 0 ppm of ammonia and 0 ppm of nitrite (double 0’s) then you are cycled![/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Step 8: [/SIZE][SIZE=12pt]Now do a 90% water change, this is to lower the level of nitrate.  Add water back up to full in your tank and add the proper amount of water conditioner.  Then you are ready to add your full stocking of fish![/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Here is a little example on what I mean about the 24 and 12 hour marks.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Let’s say you start your fishless cycle at 8:00 pm.  This means you add your first batch of ammonia up to 5 ppm.  The next time you check your ammonia level then would be the following day at 8:00 pm (24 hour later, hence the “24 hour mark”).  When your ammonia level starts to drop near 0 ppm at the 24 hour mark (8:00 pm) then go ahead and dose the ammonia back up to 5 ppm.  If you are consistently getting a reading of 0 ppm of ammonia every 24 hours after you have added the ammonia back up to 5 ppm the following day, then go ahead and start test for ammonia at 12 hours.  EX. Add ammonia up to 5 ppm at 8:00 pm, then at 8:00 am check the level of ammonia.  If the level of ammonia is at 0 ppm at 8:00 am, DO NOT add ammonia until the 24 hour mark (8:00 pm).[/SIZE]
 

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