Setting up a nano-reef

Is this a 20H or 20L?

I have 40watts over my 10g, and that's plenty for corals and anemones, reason i ask, is cuz my lighting was only 35 bucks. if its 20L then u can get for around 50 bucks the proper lighting to keep ur LR alive.
 
It would be a Twenty long. I dunno whether the hood is good for cramming flourescent tubes in though but I expect I can fix something up.

$50 is about £30... thats not bad... what lights and where from?
 
Right I have done loads of research on lighting and come up with a possible cheap solution.

I will put three tube holders in the hood that I get, or if that's not possible, build my own hood for three T8 bulbs.

I can get maybe one or two industrial bulbs really cheap - like £3 a tube - and one aquarium bulb for three times as much.

Then I will have cheap intensity from the industrial ones, and the right spectrum from the aquarium one. How does that sound?

Is corrosion an issue with salt water light fixings?

Thanks, I think I'm finally sorting this out!
 
A few things.

First, I am glad you are going with a 20 long.
Whenever a larger tank is mentioned in the marine world, there is at first some resistence due to price. We all understand this, surely. But most of us would also acknowledge that the smallest part of your investment will be your tank. At least at the nano stage. The extra few bucks you spend for a larger tank will pale in comparison to what you will be spending elsewhere. And it does ot really cost anymore to purchase good lighting for a 20 gal than a 10.

On the waterproof/resistant front, you have two options for lighting.
With budgetary concerns, regular flourescent are the way you are going to have to go, as you have surmised.
There are companies that make waterproof endcaps for light tubes. This allows you to put your lighting closer to the water line without much fear of corrosion or shorts. I have them, and they work very well, but, there is always a but aint there?
They are expensive, and only work for a specific tube diameter. This means that if you start out with NO, Normal output flourescents, and then later wish to upgrade to VHO, very high output, the VHO tubes are smaller and your pricey endcaps won't work.
What I would do is buy a four tube electronic ballast rated for three 4ft tubes. This ballast will have an output capable of 120 watts. Wire that ballast to three 2ft tubes. This is called ODNO, overdriving normal output fluorescent. I have done this to NO bulbs up to three and four times their normal wattage with great success. Even with the inefficiency of overdriving you should still have an output of over 100 watts. This will allow you to mount the lighting higher up in your homemade canopy and avoid most of the salt splash and creep, thus eliminating the need for the pricey endcaps.

What it will come down to is the DIY skills of you and any friends that are good with tools and hands. That will determine success on a budget.

GL
 
Ahh I have heard about overdriving before. This sounds like good advice to me - but how should I mount the bulbs? How do I build my own tube holder above the surface of the water - are there plans anywhere? Can you recommend a good electronic ballast for me?

BTW is an electronic ballast the same as a High frequency ballast?

Thanks a lot :D
 
I need some powerheads to provide circulation over the live rock - will two 300 gallon per hour powerheads do it?

Its a 20 gallon tank - and how much can I expect to pay for powerheads like that second hand btw?
 
wont be much i actually just got a 400gph aquaclear from ebay for 14 including shipping. I just got 4 just as big powerheads used locally for 15 for four of them...not much just watch ebay..

BTW have u joined reefcentral yet? they do have local reef clubs. I have several in my state :)
 
Ahh I have heard about overdriving before. This sounds like good advice to me - but how should I mount the bulbs? How do I build my own tube holder above the surface of the water - are there plans anywhere? Can you recommend a good electronic ballast for me?

You being on the wrong( :lol: ) side of the pond from me, I really can't recommend a specific ballast number. But Advance makes good reasonably priced ones if available there. Any lighting place should easily be able to help. They will aslo carry the simple, normal standard light end connectors for about a buck apiece, normally less than that.

BTW is an electronic ballast the same as a High frequency ballast?

Well, kinda sorta.. :lol:
High frequency is a trait of electronic ballasts that helps level out the flickering that some of us old farts can recall in the lamps of old. Helpful, but most flickering used to occur due to the cold, or the extreme aging of a bulb. Neither should apply in a conciencous reef environment.

I need some powerheads to provide circulation over the live rock - will two 300 gallon per hour powerheads do it?

I have an idea for this. We have so many newbies for SW wanting to start with smaller tanks, that I have been thinking of the easiest, cheapest way to do it correctly. I have some ideas to share, but it is three AM for me, and I really do have somewhat of a life... :rofl:
So I will post a thread on my musings sometime tommorow...K?

GL
 
just go to menards, or home depot, check out the wattage output u need and go from there. Hook up to end caps then...or search ebay for retro kits.
 
you know a 30L would make a good starter tank for SW newbies. Not too big not too small enough room to screw up yet if it does screw up u dont lose to much.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top