Seriously Confused By Water Results?!

Lets understand something here. Tests which result in colors are subjective because eyes do not see identically no matter whose head they are in. Lab grade test kits use a colorimeter or some sort of spectrographic device to read the actual color.
 
Ammonia compounds combine with chlorine to form monochloramine. Monochloramine reacts with salicylate to form 5-aminosalicylate. The 5-aminosalicylate is oxidized in the presence of a sodium nitroprusside catalyst to form a blue-colored compound. The blue color is masked by the yellow color from the excess reagent to give a final green-colored solution. The measurement wavelength is 655 nm for spectrophotometers or 610 nm for colorimeters.
from http://www.hach.com/asset-get.download.jsa?id=7639983745
 
 
So we do a test such as the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate or pH and we look at the color. Choose 5 people at random and ask them to read the results of a hobby kit used for any of these  I would bet dollars to donuts you get at least 3 if not 5 different readings. Its one thing when the color is pretty much dead on for a given level but what happens when its between?
 
To give an idea of how subjective reading colors can be, here are the the two ammonia cards for the API sw and fw ammonia kits in the USA.
 
ammoniacolor2.jpg

Now answer the following Qs:
 
1. Which bar on the fw chart on the right most closely matches the 0 ppm sw bar on the left?
2. Which bar on the sw chart (left) most closely matches the 8 ppm bar for fw (right).
3. Which two bars, one from each chart, most closely match each other the best?
 
I really am not evil
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bsilverfox you must have eyes like a machine if you can make out .125 ppm of ammonia. If that is a real reading then unless your pH is about 8.5 or more and the temp 85F or more, there is not enough NH3 in that reading to harml even the most sensitive species in tanks.
 
In the USA, 44 ppm, or less, of nitrate (on an AP kit) are permissible.
 
 
 
says to shake 2nd bottle for 30 secs then add the drops then shaking in the tube for a further 60 secs.
i do double time for both
 
Unregistered User--Using the API Ammonia test there is no .125 reading. However, I have indicated in previous posts I find the API test results difficult to read as the color shadings are so close-particularly for the reds in the Nitrate Test. In the ammonia test when I listed the result of .125 it was because the color in the test tube was clearly in between the yellow for 0 and the soft green for .250. The PH in my tank is and has been a steady 7.6 and I keep the temp @ 85-86 degrees as recommended by Discus Hans--the source of my Discus fish. With reference to the color cards you uploaded for testing Ammonia--I discarded my SW card but the colors on my FW card for Ammonia (NH3/NH4) bear little resemblance to the ones as they show in the forum. For example, while my 0 PPM is yellow, the color for .50PPM on my card most resembles the 1.0 PPM on your SW card. No trace of yellow. In addition, I find that the angle at which one tries to read results can have an impact on the shading even when the test tube is held to the card as API indicates is the proper way to read them. I have not seen a Lab Grade Test Kit offered in Home Aquarium Supplies outlets at the retail or mail order level. They must be expensive. Finally, I am not concerned about ammonia--I think the .125 level is a result of adding some new fish. It's the Nitrates that are giving me a problem. I can't get them under 40PPM and I'm not even sure 40 is where I am at. Look at the FW color chart--it could just as well be 80. My eyes cannot discern the difference on the chart much less for the test. I'm thinking positively and giving it a 40. (The permissible reading) My fish (Discus)are growing, very colorful, active and appear to be healthy.
PS--I almost forgot to thank you for that wonderful and very useful information from hach.com
 

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