Saltwater to Freshwater?

[boshk]

Hi
I currently have an established Reef tank with a sump, Red Sea's Reefer 450L, basically its 60in across, 450Litres (92Gal)

I'm thinking about converting it to Freshwater, no special fish like Discus or anything, not complicated planted tank, something which is 'easier' on maintenance and self sustaining.
How much of the equipment could I realistically re-use?

1) 3x AI Reef lights.......could I just use 2?
2) Skimmer: not required
3) Wavemakers: not required but keep a basic one for water movement 'in-tank'?
4) Return Pump: try dial it down so the water circulation isn't at 'reef level'?
5) Sand: Could I reuse the sane if I cleaned it or would it be much easier to buy new sand/gravel?
6) Coral rocks: sell/bin
7) Auto Top Off: Keep
8) Heater/Chiller: Keep but temperature doesnt need to be as accurate?
9) RODI: remove the DI portion and use 50/50 RO and tap water with a De-clorinator?
10) Protein film on top of water should be handled by the overflow and sump, maybe basic foam filter floss in sump to catch the 'oily film'?

Thanks

 

[PheonixKingZ]

Most saltwater sand will affect pH in a freshwater tank, I know that for sure. Not really sure on the other stuff...

It can be done, just takes a lot of work.

 

[seangee]

Just the stuff that warrants comment:

1. Maybe if you could use a white profile - may have algae problems otherwise
2. Not needed
3. Likely not needed. Depends what fish you keep - many don't cope well with high flow
4. Ok
5. Buy new - use inert sand
6. Sell/bin - will die off / decompose in FW
7. Remember you will still need RO for this. Most people don't use it but since you already have it it won't hurt
8. Your choice
9. Depends on what fish you keep and the GH of your tap water. Different fish have different requirements. You may be able to use just tap water depending on its hardness and what fish you plan to keep. Hardness is the main parameter that matters (besides temp) for your stocking. Either way you won't need DI. Unlike seawater (which is pretty constant throughout the world), freshwater fish come from a variety of different environments - so you can't keep hard water fish in soft water or vice versa.
10. Yup

 

[AbbeysDad]

It sounds like a plan. I'd suggest sand (I like pool filter sand) over instead of gravel for the substrate. You already know that a sump can be a great filter...for FW too. I might use that extra light to create a refugium down under with fast growing floating plants. Unless you have really hard water, you may be fine with straight tap water instead of the 50/50 RO mix. Also depends on your tap water and the fish you're thinking of getting.
Good luck and keep posting, Mike, MJV Aquatics

 

[seangee]

I'd suggest sand (I like pool filter sand) over gravel for the substrate.

He means instead of and not on top of
Sorry AD: Confused me for a second there

 

[AbbeysDad]

He means instead of and not on top of
Sorry AD: Confused me for a second there

Thanks - corrected. ('Do what I meant, not what I said')

 

[PheonixKingZ]

Thanks - corrected. ('Do what I meant, not what I said')

Sounds like my dads mom.

 

[Sotomx]

I switched from Marine to freshwater, mine´s a 100 gallon and my recomendations are, first of all, I try to keep it way cheaper maintenance wise:

1) 3x AI Reef lights.......could I just use 2? Sold my 3 Kessil´s and place a LED light fixture.
2) Skimmer: not required, sold
3) Wavemakers: not required but keep a basic one for water movement 'in-tank'? Sold my 2 Vortech´s, most of FW fish prefer calm waters, movement would be enough wiht the filter outlet.
4) Return Pump: try dial it down so the water circulation isn't at 'reef level'? I got rid of the sump, and bought a Canister filter, super silent operation.
5) Sand: Could I reuse the sane if I cleaned it or would it be much easier to buy new sand/gravel? New sand (silica)
6) Coral rocks: sell/bin Bought Dragon type rocks
7) Auto Top Off: Keep, I sold mine, evaporation in fresh water is very low.
8) Heater/Chiller: Keep but temperature doesnt need to be as accurate? Just a heater
9) RODI: remove the DI portion and use 50/50 RO and tap water with a De-clorinator? I just use water conditioners
10) Protein film on top of water should be handled by the overflow and sump, maybe basic foam filter floss in sump to catch the 'oily film'? Filter outlet will do the job.

 

[boshk]

Thanks
1st priority, try and sell my corals first, then fish.
After that, it will probably take a whole day or even 2 to clean the tank, sump, equipment, remove the sand (thats going to stink), rocks and scrap the coralline algae off.

 

[boshk]

I switched from Marine to freshwater, mine´s a 100 gallon and my recomendations are, first of all, I try to keep it way cheaper maintenance wise:

1) 3x AI Reef lights.......could I just use 2? Sold my 3 Kessil´s and place a LED light fixture.
...
4) Return Pump: try dial it down so the water circulation isn't at 'reef level'? I got rid of the sump, and bought a Canister filter, super silent operation.

With the Red Sea Reefer series, it comes with the sump and the overflow is in the tank itself. I thought about getting rid of the sump and using an Eheim canister but then the ATO, heater all have to go inside the display tank.
sump has its ups and downs....I'm just considering which
Pro: hide all equipment, heater, chiller pump, return pump, ATO, media, etc Maybe it is easier to clean too compare to canister? cheap floss filter

 

[AbbeysDad]

I'd say going in to stick with the sump - it's there and it works. You could always swap it out for a canister later on. I colony breed swordtails in a 110g stock tank. I had a canister on it and added a 40g sump. You might find The Evolution of my Stock Tank an interesting read. I'm uncertain about the intensity of the lights, but I still wonder if one or two would be fine for FW for the tank and the third might be used in the sump/refugium (just spitballing). But it's all up to you...if you have money to burn, you can buy new lights and a canister filter, etc.
I always try to reuse what I can, if I can.