Restarting Old Tank

[Derek2011]

Hi All,

I am looking to restart a tank I used a few years ago (maybe 10 years). It is around 5ft x 1ft X 1ft6in. I used undergravel filtration, flourescent lighting and a simple immersion heater. Looking through the posts, many of these things now seem out-of-date, and I wondered if anyone has advice as to how I should go about updating my techniques/knowledge?

Any help is appreciated.

Derek

 

[HayzH]

Hi All,

I am looking to restart a tank I used a few years ago (maybe 10 years). It is around 5ft x 1ft X 1ft6in. I used undergravel filtration, flourescent lighting and a simple immersion heater. Looking through the posts, many of these things now seem out-of-date, and I wondered if anyone has advice as to how I should go about updating my techniques/knowledge?

Any help is appreciated.

Derek

check out the beginners resource centre...lots of great ideas and info in there...x

 

[the_lock_man]

In your situation, I would probably buy a new external filter, as u/gravel filtration, in my opinion, isn't as efficient as other means.

If the fluorescent lighting still works, I would question whether I would invest in new stuff. Certainly, LED lighting is where it's at, but as the old adage goes, If It Ain't Broke.....

If the heater has a thermostat, and is the correct wattage for the tank capacity, I'd test it thoroughly before starting to cycle the filter, but again, if it works ok, then don't replace it.

 

[Derek2011]

Thanks for this. You are correct to recommend the beginners resource centre, but most of the info there simply recommends the more modern methods (of course). What I am wondering is, should I simply dispose of my old equipment in order to update my methods? Do the new filter/heater types do a better, or merely easier to manage job versus the older undergravel filter and separate immersion heater? Can any more/better be done with (for example) LED lighting or similar rather than the flourescent tube methods?

Or am I making too much of the new advise and simply becoming confused?

Thanks for your reply. I should have been more specific.

Hi All,

I am looking to restart a tank I used a few years ago (maybe 10 years). It is around 5ft x 1ft X 1ft6in. I used undergravel filtration, flourescent lighting and a simple immersion heater. Looking through the posts, many of these things now seem out-of-date, and I wondered if anyone has advice as to how I should go about updating my techniques/knowledge?

Any help is appreciated.

Derek

check out the beginners resource centre...lots of great ideas and info in there...x

 

[Hermithall]

Hi Derek,
Welcome back to fish keeping, hope you get up and running again soon after a 10 year break! Totally agree with Lock Man, I'll finish his adage ....Don't Fix It" lol. It's true, test the lights and heater and if they still work, keep them. Upgrading light units is expensive, but you might benefit from new tubes which aren't too dear, and I don't think heater technology has really changed at all.
The undergravel filtration is the most contentious issue, but it would certainly get you started and you can always add an additional filter later on. External Tetratec EX1200 filter would be my weapon of choice, they're about 90 quid but that's way cheaper than an Eheim equivelant and the specs and user reviews rival Eheim.
You can find every bit of information you need researching on the internet via google and learn loads from shared experiences on forums. What did you used to keep and what's lured you back to fishkeeping, I bet you have missed the hobby?
Cheers, Mark.

 

[Overload]

Thanks for this. You are correct to recommend the beginners resource centre, but most of the info there simply recommends the more modern methods (of course). What I am wondering is, should I simply dispose of my old equipment in order to update my methods? Do the new filter/heater types do a better, or merely easier to manage job versus the older undergravel filter and separate immersion heater? Can any more/better be done with (for example) LED lighting or similar rather than the flourescent tube methods?

Or am I making too much of the new advise and simply becoming confused?

Thanks for your reply. I should have been more specific.

Hi All,

I am looking to restart a tank I used a few years ago (maybe 10 years). It is around 5ft x 1ft X 1ft6in. I used undergravel filtration, flourescent lighting and a simple immersion heater. Looking through the posts, many of these things now seem out-of-date, and I wondered if anyone has advice as to how I should go about updating my techniques/knowledge?

Any help is appreciated.

Derek

check out the beginners resource centre...lots of great ideas and info in there...x

I think you are over thinking it. A new heater and an old heater are not that different, lighting, new ones maybe more powerful (and more efficient) but unless you are looking at a high tech planted set up, its not going to make a big difference. The only thing I would do is replace the undergravel filter with an external canister one, mostly they are more efficient biofilters (once cycled) plus gives you more choice with your substrate.

As for the techniques of cycling, the kit does not make that much of a difference

 

[HayzH]

Thanks for this. You are correct to recommend the beginners resource centre, but most of the info there simply recommends the more modern methods (of course). What I am wondering is, should I simply dispose of my old equipment in order to update my methods? Do the new filter/heater types do a better, or merely easier to manage job versus the older undergravel filter and separate immersion heater? Can any more/better be done with (for example) LED lighting or similar rather than the flourescent tube methods?

Or am I making too much of the new advise and simply becoming confused?

Thanks for your reply. I should have been more specific.

Hi All,

I am looking to restart a tank I used a few years ago (maybe 10 years). It is around 5ft x 1ft X 1ft6in. I used undergravel filtration, flourescent lighting and a simple immersion heater. Looking through the posts, many of these things now seem out-of-date, and I wondered if anyone has advice as to how I should go about updating my techniques/knowledge?

Any help is appreciated.

Derek

check out the beginners resource centre...lots of great ideas and info in there...x

well it has been said..if it aint broke...dont fix it...if it worked back then...it will work now...i would say splurge out on a new filter though..and do a fishless cycle. If you know anyone with mature filter media...ask to nick some!

 

[KittyKat]

I recommend an external filter.

Lights should be fine, unless the ballast is broken (starer bit may be replaceable, if that's the problem), otherwise, I recommend T5 tubes with an electronic starter (ballast) because these are most efficient per amount of light produced. If you need to buy new bulbs, standard tri-phosphor ones are cheaper than ones branded "for aquarium use" and can even be identical sometimes.

Depending on whether you go for plants and your final stock, fish-less cycle is most likely to be the best option for filter cycling.

Do investigate using a sand substrate, a lot of fish benefit from sand over gravel.

 

[Hermithall]

I recommend an external filter.

Lights should be fine, unless the ballast is broken (starer bit may be replaceable, if that's the problem), otherwise, I recommend T5 tubes with an electronic starter (ballast) because these are most efficient per amount of light produced.

Just so you're aware Derek - It's worth mentioning that while the modern T5 light systems are more efficient than your older T8 tubes in terms of light output per wattage, they also use considerably more electricity than a T8 tube of the same length. This makes a big difference to anyone conscious of their carbon footprint! T5 tubes are way more expensive to replace too. If your current lighting still works but seems inadequate you can increase the output by literally 100% using aluminium reflectors.

 

[Derek2011]

Thanks Mark,

I will get rid of the old filter system and go with the Tetratec EX1200 after reading some reviews. Also it seems a new immersion heater is in order. The old lights seem also to have 'given up the ghost', so I'm still looking around to see what is on offer.

As to what brought me back, I was asked by a friend to look after her fish while she was away and got re-bitten by the bug.

Derek

Hi Derek,
Welcome back to fish keeping, hope you get up and running again soon after a 10 year break! Totally agree with Lock Man, I'll finish his adage ....Don't Fix It" lol. It's true, test the lights and heater and if they still work, keep them. Upgrading light units is expensive, but you might benefit from new tubes which aren't too dear, and I don't think heater technology has really changed at all.
The undergravel filtration is the most contentious issue, but it would certainly get you started and you can always add an additional filter later on. External Tetratec EX1200 filter would be my weapon of choice, they're about 90 quid but that's way cheaper than an Eheim equivelant and the specs and user reviews rival Eheim.
You can find every bit of information you need researching on the internet via google and learn loads from shared experiences on forums. What did you used to keep and what's lured you back to fishkeeping, I bet you have missed the hobby?
Cheers, Mark.

 

[KittyKat]

Lights should be fine, unless the ballast is broken (starer bit may be replaceable, if that's the problem), otherwise, I recommend T5 tubes with an electronic starter (ballast) because these are most efficient per amount of light produced.

Just so you're aware Derek - It's worth mentioning that while the modern T5 light systems are more efficient than your older T8 tubes in terms of light output per wattage, they also use considerably more electricity than a T8 tube of the same length. This makes a big difference to anyone conscious of their carbon footprint! T5 tubes are way more expensive to replace too

Erm, that's not quite correct:

• A standard 1200 mm T8 tube consumes 36 W, while a standard 1149 mm T5 tube consumes 28 W (these produce about the same light as the standard T8s, +/- 5-10%), but the 1149 mm HO (high output) T5 tubes are rated as 54 W, so one can choose to have essentially the same light or more.
• T5s may last for longer, depending on the bulb one uses. For example, Philips and Osram claim that some of their currently produced T5s will only produce 10% less light than originally after 15000 - 30000 hours, while most T8s produce 10% less light than originally after only 6000 - 16000 hours.
• The production of T5 lamps is more environmentally friendly because the technology used for the process has improved (it can be applied to T8 lamp production, but the machinery would need to be replaced, which most manufacturers will not do until it breaks, by which time T8s are likely to be obsolete).
• Going by the first online retailer of fluorescent lamps which Google showed me (www.firstlightdirect.com), the price difference between the first bulbs I come to is a huge 22%, but that's only 65p (approximately EUR 0.75 or USD 1.00) which is not a lot to pay for a bulb which can potentially last for twice as long. And before you say it, anyone who buys bulbs branded "for aquarium use" over standard ones probably deserves to be ripped off.

If your current lighting still works but seems inadequate you can increase the output by literally 100% using aluminium reflectors.

More like 30-70%, depending on reflector, but it's definitely worth using one.

Also it seems a new immersion heater is in order.

I have found Visitherm and NeWatt heaters to be most reliable and accurate. I recommend that two are used for tanks which are 4 ft long or over to encourage more even heating of the water. In a standard house (which does not get particularly cold in winter), 1 watt per litre seems to work well. So for your 202 litre aquarium, I would recommend a 100-150 W heater and a 100 W heater.

The old lights seem also to have 'given up the ghost', so I'm still looking around to see what is on offer.

It would help to know what you plan to do with the tank: for example, a plant-free set-up wouldn't need very bright lighting to avoid algae, while one with plants would benefit from the extra light.

 

[Hermithall]

Wow, I stand corrected - I could have sworn when I downgraded my juwel lights from T5 to T8 I was saving electricity because of the wattage written on the tubes. I enjoyed the "branded for aquarium use" snipe, but why would I care about that? - the lights don't go in the water

Edit: Yes, just checked my old T5 unit and they were Juwel Hi-Lite tubes which use 50% more electricity than the T8's I replaced them with. I was oblivious to the fact that there are 2 ratings of T5 tubes, so thanks KittyKat for the info. I really liked the sound of the lower wattage T5's as I am very conscious about low energy use, but I'm concerned about ballast issues with my Hi-Lite unit (don't want to start a fire or something) so probably won't try them myself right now.
To be fair, most people presumably will choose the higher wattage T5's since it's considered an 'upgrade' from T8 and will thus be using more electricity, outweighing the more environmentally friendly manufacturing benefits through sheer longterm use, so I'd say my carbon footprint point is still valid.
Well done on your price discovery Kat, that 'huge 22%' price difference you mantioned in tubes might translate as next to nothing to you, but even a saving of 65p is noteworthy the way things are here right now, and I personally reckon it'll be a heck of a long time before T8's are obsolete

 

[KittyKat]

I enjoyed the "branded for aquarium use" snipe, but why would I care about that? - the lights don't go in the water

I know, but some people are still convinced that there is a great difference between the two, for some reason >.<

I really liked the sound of the lower wattage T5's as I am very conscious about low energy use, but I'm concerned about ballast issues with my Hi-Lite unit (don't want to start a fire or something) so probably won't try them myself right now.

I'm not sure if you can use the lower wattage bulbs with *all* the higher wattage ballasts, but it may be possible with those that take a range of bulb lengths. The biggest difference in efficiency is actually in the ballasts themselves, which is why the "electronic" part is the important one. Different types of ballasts also make a noticeable difference to the life of the bulb.

Well done on your price discovery Kat, that 'huge 22%' price difference you mantioned in tubes might translate as next to nothing to you, but even a saving of 65p is noteworthy the way things are here right now, and I personally reckon it'll be a heck of a long time before T8's are obsolete

Still, 65p is very little compared to the daily running costs of the average aquarium and the costs of buying a replacement bulb, wouldn't you agree? For example, the Kill-a-Watt type thing I recently tried on my 60 litre aquarium showed that it cost around 23p per day (my electricity costs a little bit more than the cheapest rates in UK do).

 

[Miles_hot]

Hermithall - why is your sig anti Argos Play Sand?

 

[Aqua Tom]

Hermithall - why is your sig anti Argos Play Sand?

Hermithall has apparantly left the forum for reasons we dont quite understand. Had a rant about playsand & didnt like the fact that some of us disagreed with said argument.