Really Struggling

[kimmiecat]

On the fish, to avoid a repeat, do not take the advice of fish store employees without confirming it. The best way here is to note down the fish you like, and post the species in this forum so we can advise. "Tetras" covers hundreds of species, some very small, most larger, some huge. Some are peaceful, some active, some nip fins, some attack fish, some live near the substrate, some near the surface, some need currents, some need quiet water, some need warmer temperatures than others...as you can see, all of these things matter. You do not want to come home with a group of fish and then have to take them back or get rid of them somehow.

Also see what cories they have, here too there are size differences that will matter in a 10g tank.

What sand are you thinking of getting?

Ah, that makes sense. Well, I will go take notes on Wednesday. I will set it up tonight (with sand as the substrate) and let it run.

 

[Byron]

I just wandered around the PetCo (I work inside a PetCo) - all the tetras look really big. Are there specific small species of tetras?

6 or 7 tetras and 6 cories won't be overstocking the tank?

They might, which is why you need to plan ahead. On the cories, the panda is probably the best choice here; a group of six in a 10g will be OK. There are also the "dwarf" species like pygmy which could have a group of 9-10. These aree a bit more delicate though.

Tetras...the Ember are nano fish and a group of 8-9 would be fine. Beyond that, neon tetra or glowlight tetra in a group of seven (either but not both species) perhaps? Or a group of the dwarf rasbora like Boraras brigittae?

Now, before someone else jumps on me for suggesting neons in a 10g, I realize this is not ideal. But you have the tank and I understand the issues, and it can work without being harmful to the fish.

 

[kimmiecat]

What sand are you thinking of getting?

I realized I skipped this question. I was just going to get the aquarium sand at PetCo (https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petco...el-substrates/imagitarium-white-aquarium-sand)

 

[kimmiecat]

Also, what should I have for food?

I have tropical fish flakes. I was reading that I was probably underfeeding my cories by not having a specific sinking food for them. What would you recommend for cory food?

 

[Essjay]

Looking at the link you gave for the sand, I would like to make 2 comments.

The sand in the photo looks too coarse for cories, it's more like fine gravel. Cories need finer sand that that one appears to be. Play sand is the right texture and it's cheaper.
It doesn't look very white in the photo, but if it is actually white, it is not suitable for fish; they are much 'happier' on something darker. There are no fish in the hobby that have evolved on white river/lake beds and they find pure white to be stressful.

 

[kimmiecat]

Looking at the link you gave for the sand, I would like to make 2 comments.

The sand in the photo looks too coarse for cories, it's more like fine gravel. Cories need finer sand that that one appears to be. Play sand is the right texture and it's cheaper.
It doesn't look very white in the photo, but if it is actually white, it is not suitable for fish; they are much 'happier' on something darker. There are no fish in the hobby that have evolved on white river/lake beds and they find pure white to be stressful.

I snapped a picture of it walking out of work today. It does look a little gravel-y and pretty white.

 

[Byron]

Yes, I had the same thoughts as essjay when I clicked the link. And I totally agree with her reasons.

There is nothing to suggest it is calcareous, another thing, but you want an inert sand, meaning one that will not affect water chemistry. Play Sand is about as good as it gets for inert darkish smooth sand. And very inexpensive.

On the food question, a good quality flake or pellet food for upper fish (the tetras, rasboras, or whatever you get) is fine, and for substrate fish like cories a disk/pellet/tablet food that sinks immediately. I have always used three different foods in each group, three upper and three sinking, alternating them so the fish have something different each day for three days, then repeat. The best brands I have locally are Omega One and New Life Spectrum. Depending where you are, you might have these, or maybe another equally-good brand. Both of these mentioned do not use fish "meal" but whole fish, and they have no cereals as fillers.

I use the Omega One shrimp pellets and Omega One Veggie Rounds for my substrate fish; my cories and loaches and plecos all love these. I also feed frozen bloodworms but only once a week as a treat. For the upper fish, Omega One Kelp Flakes or Spirulina Flakes (whichever), Omega One Shrimp Flakes, and New Life Spectrum Freshwater Flakes. I also use Nutrafin's Bug Bites once a week.

 

[FishGuest5123]

Assuming you have not yet acquired anything new, like the new gravel, you should think through the fish that will be in this tank, and ensure their needs are met. For example, if cories are intended, the substrate is better as sand, not gravel, and a neutral colour is better for the fish (and viewing).

The decor should be OK with a good cleaning. Use a dilution of bleach and water, then rinse very well in tap water, then let air dry completely. This is no good for wood or rocks as they can absorb chemicals, but the artificial plants and castle should be OK (assuming they were sold as aquarium decor so they will be safe to use).

Tetra Safe Start is intended to be used with the first fish in the tank. You should not see ammonia or nitrite at all provided the fish are very few and gradual and you use the SafeStart as directed on the label.

Now for the fish...this is a small tank, and thee best fish will be nano species. You have soft water so you have more options than you would with hard water. Do not consider any livebearers: guppies, Endlers, platies, mollies, swordtails. None of these will live long in soft acidic water. Some of the smaller tetras and rasboras will work, and a group of cory catfish (five minimum). All of these are shoaling species, so they must have a grop of each species, so keep that in mind. The cories, maybe panda cory in a group of six, and a group of seven of a small sized tetra or rasbora, or similar.

Safe Start can be used to start a fishless cycle too. That would be so much better for your fish if you wait until the tank is completely cycled. Wait 24 hours after using Safe Start to use the Prime or it will destroy the bacteria in the bottle. Use another dechlorinator until then. I’ll be glad to help you do a fishless cycle but too many cooks in the kitchen destroy the broth if you know what I mean.

 

[kimmiecat]

Alright! I have play sand, decorations, filter, heater all set up. We rinsed the play sand 4 times before putting it in the tank, but its a little cloudy. I assume it just needs to settle?

For using the safe start, the bottle suggests just dumping the whole bottle in then adding fish. Does that sound right?

I assume I should dechlorinate the water a few days before adding safe start?

Thanks for your help!

 

[Byron]

We rinsed the play sand 4 times before putting it in the tank, but its a little cloudy. I assume it just needs to settle?

Yes, this is not a problem. I have a trick I use, because any disturbance such as arranging décor and plants can stir it all up again. Once I have everything the way I want the aquascape, décor and plants, which I usually do with half to 3/4 of the tank filled, I then drain out all the water right down to the substrate. Then fill the tank with the tap water at the desired temperature and place a bowl or similar vessel on the substrate and pour the water carefully into the bowl; as it overflows it will gently fill the tank without too much disturbance.

For using the safe start, the bottle suggests just dumping the whole bottle in then adding fish. Does that sound right?

I've never used this product because no one locally carries it, but it is a very good bacterial supplement so I would follow the directions. I believe it is correct that you only add this when the first fish go in.

I assume I should dechlorinate the water a few days before adding safe start?

Given the caution by Deanasue in post #23...you can use the Prime when you last fill the tank, and wait a couple days before adding SafeStart with the first fish. Prime is only effective for 36 hours, say 48 max, so presumably this would solve that issue. I would probably suggest using a different conditioner, like API Tap Water Conditioner, as I do not know if this would interact like Prime with SafeStart (?). But waiting 2-3 days should deal with this.

Another thought...if you only have chlorine and not also chloramine added by your water authority, you can dispense with the conditioner and wait two days. Chlorine will dissipate out of water in 24 hours. This is why some places now use chloramine as well, because the chlorine loses its ability to kill bacteria as the water moves through the pipes. I only have chlorine, so I never use conditioner when |I first set up a tank because it usually runs for a day or two before I add the fish. If you have chloramine however, better use a conditioner and wait 3 days or so. This time also makes sure the filter and heater are functioning properly.

 

[FishGuest5123]

Byron is correct. Use another chlorine remover for at least 24 hours after adding Safe Start. Then you can use the Prime. I usually squirt some directly in the filter and the rest in the tank. If you can let the tank run for a few days without the fish then it will give the Safe Start a chance to grab hold before you have to do a water change. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[kimmiecat]

Hi! We added safestart and 7 cherry spot rasbora. Things seem to be going well, except, I lost one last night because he got sucked in by the filter and got stuck.

Is there a way to prevent that in the future?

Thanks!

 

[Byron]

Hi! We added safestart and 7 cherry spot rasbora. Things seem to be going well, except, I lost one last night because he got sucked in by the filter and got stuck.

Is there a way to prevent that in the future?

Thanks!

You may have to turn down the flow if you can; some filters have adjustable flow. While healthy fish usually have the strength to avoid getting pulled in, these rasbora are tiny and the flow through the filter may be more than needed. A slight water current is all you need; surface disturbance at the filter is much more beneficial than strong or substantial currents through the tank.

Aside from the above, a sort of screen around the filter intake is sometimes used. Some use a bit of filter sponge, or netting like a fish net fastened around the filter stem. Make sure you rinse it every week or it can get clogged.

 

[kimmiecat]

Unfortunately my filter is not asjustable. I ordered a pre filter sponge and will put it in when it gets here. So far, no more filter losses.

We're now about 48 hours post-fish and I did a water test.

pH 7.2 (so, qay different from my dipsticks! But I guess that isnt surprising.)
Ammonia 0.5
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0

Do I test again tomorrow or Wednesday? Or do I need to do a water change with that ammonia reading?

I don't want to take out too much ammonia because the bacteria need some to get established, right?

Thanks for your advice!

 

[Byron]

Unfortunately my filter is not asjustable. I ordered a pre filter sponge and will put it in when it gets here. So far, no more filter losses.

We're now about 48 hours post-fish and I did a water test.

pH 7.2 (so, qay different from my dipsticks! But I guess that isnt surprising.)
Ammonia 0.5
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0

Do I test again tomorrow or Wednesday? Or do I need to do a water change with that ammonia reading?

I don't want to take out too much ammonia because the bacteria need some to get established, right?

Thanks for your advice!

The ammonia may be due to the SafeStart. Do a test each day in the morning. It is always advisable to do tests at the same time of day so you get a better idea of changes.

Are you using Prime or another dechlorinator/conditioner?

What was the pH previously?