Problem Started Wiith Black Moor, Now All.

[123Sam123]

IF the fish EVER turns sideways, return it to the main tank IMMEDIATELY!

 
I added tonic salt to the quarantine tank. As well as FLUVAL Aqua Plus Water Conditioner, I am adding Biological Enhancers and Tetra's GoldMed (Medication) to prevent secondary infections. Thanks for all your information - It was really helpful!
 
I only vacuum gravel every 2 water changes, so in the future, I will do it every time.
 
Because the water tests (Ammonia, 6 in 1, and Nitrite/Nitrate) are so expensive (about 15 GB Pounds each) , I am going to the pet store to get the old water from yesterday (which I have in a jug) tested.
 
As I was writing this, I noticed that my fish aren't eating AT ALL and the fod that I gave them yesterday is lying on the floor. The poos the're producing are thin and colourless, much unlike that which they usually do. Should I purchase live food or feed them dried bloodworms / daphnia?

 

[123Sam123]

 

In the summer, that could be room temp.  

 
 
Just to say for any non-UK residents that the UK is going through a heatwave at the moment, and earlier this week the south of England had near record temperatures of over 30 deg C.
 

Yes, there are no  heaters installed on my tank, and even with the ice bottles and water changes, within half an hour my tank is at 28C.
Another problem is I have 3 weeks to sort this out, as I'm going on holiday to Spain. The fish will be left with feeding stones. How can I get them to start eating?

 

[jontysquirrel]

In the summer, that could be room temp. 

In the U.K.

- possibly one or two days a year.
 
BTW 123sam123 - don't panic!
There are some really simple things you can do to help. Overall your cleaning scheduel is too severe and you are probably doing more harm than good.
 
My advice for what it is worth.
 
1. Never, NEVER overfeed. I feed my fish ONCE a day. Do not feed more than they can eat in 3-5mins. You can leave goldfish for a week without feeding, two at a push.
 
2. If you can in the future, re-position your tank out of direct sunlight. For the time being if it was my tank I would put some paper or something to block the direct sunlight.
 
3. Get some air in that tank, you could get a cheap undergravel filter to support your filtration.
 
4. Your tank is HUGE for those fish. It should easily cope.
 
5. For that tank I would probably change 5 gallons(imperial) every 2/3 weeks. I always let the water stand for 24hrs in the room before using. No need for any fancy aquasafe for goldfish.
 
6. With your foam, just squeeze it out in some old tank water and pop it back in filter, don't just pour water over it.
 
7. With pea gravel get hold of a syphon gravel cleaner - as you know goldfish are very messy. They seem to multiply what they eat by a factor of ten when they poo!
 
I assume you have been trying treatments, changing water and generally been a nuscience to your poor goldfish for the past few days. As well as the illness they are suffering they are also highly stressed at the moment. I would back off now if it were my tank. Stop feeding them, keep the lights switched off, keep an eye on the temperature and cover the ends of the tank with something to stop direct sunlight or just shut the curtains if possible. That temperature is not doing you any favours at all.
 
Goodluck
 
Jontysquirrel

 

[betta fish]

 

In the summer, that could be room temp. 

In the U.K.

- possibly one or two days a year.
 
BTW 123sam123 - don't panic!
There are some really simple things you can do to help. Overall your cleaning scheduel is too severe and you are probably doing more harm than good.
 
My advice for what it is worth.
 
1. Never, NEVER overfeed. I feed my fish ONCE a day. Do not feed more than they can eat in 3-5mins. You can leave goldfish for a week without feeding, two at a push.
 
2. If you can in the future, re-position your tank out of direct sunlight. For the time being if it was my tank I would put some paper or something to block the direct sunlight.
 
3. Get some air in that tank, you could get a cheap undergravel filter to support your filtration.
 
4. Your tank is HUGE for those fish. It should easily cope.
 
5. For that tank I would probably change 5 gallons(imperial) every 2/3 weeks. I always let the water stand for 24hrs in the room before using. No need for any fancy aquasafe for goldfish.
 
6. With your foam, just squeeze it out in some old tank water and pop it back in filter, don't just pour water over it.
 
7. With pea gravel get hold of a syphon gravel cleaner - as you know goldfish are very messy. They seem to multiply what they eat by a factor of ten when they poo!
 
I assume you have been trying treatments, changing water and generally been a nuscience to your poor goldfish for the past few days. As well as the illness they are suffering they are also highly stressed at the moment. I would back off now if it were my tank. Stop feeding them, keep the lights switched off, keep an eye on the temperature and cover the ends of the tank with something to stop direct sunlight or just shut the curtains if possible. That temperature is not doing you any favours at all.
 
Goodluck
 
Jontysquirrel
 

Your point on number 4 is incorrect  infact the tank is too small for that number of goldfish so it cannot cope hence the problems that are appearing, they need clean water now more than anything.

 

[eaglesaquarium]

3. Get some air in that tank, you could get a cheap undergravel filter to support your filtration.
 
4. Your tank is HUGE for those fish. It should easily cope.
 
5. For that tank I would probably change 5 gallons(imperial) every 2/3 weeks. I always let the water stand for 24hrs in the room before using. No need for any fancy aquasafe for goldfish.

 
A lot of what you said had merit, but these 3 points are all incorrect.
 
3 - Undergravel filters are only good if they are properly maintained.  Unless the gravel is properly vacuumed the gunk builds up and fast leading to a clogged undergravel filter.  This would also require a fair amount of prep as the existing gravel would need to be removed first to lay the plates in place.  A simple sponge filter would be better, but the issue doesn't appear to be related to the oxygen levels in the tank, but the ability of the fish to take up the oxygen through their gills.
 
4 - This is just patently false.  As you point out (correctly) that goldies are messy fish, they require MORE volume of water to support them, not less.  Fluttermoth put together a very nice article on the care of goldfish that helps shed some extra light on proper techniques for keeping them and keeping them properly.  http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/417799-goldfish-for-beginners/  The general rule for 'fancy' goldfish is 20 gallons for the first, and 10 for each additional one.  Common goldfish really aren't 'aquarium' fish, but are great for ponds if it doesn't freeze over, or if its deep enough to support them through a freeze.
 
5 - 5 gallons of water changed every 2-3 weeks will quickly lead this tank to 'Old Tank Syndrome'.  Simply put, there's just far too much waste in that tank to allow for such a lax water change schedule.  You are recommending only 16% water change (probably less when you factor in substrate and decor) for a < 30 gallon tank that is dramatically overstocked.   Overstocked tanks require MUCH more water to be changed than 'average' and what you are suggesting is far below average.  25% weekly is an absolute minimum, and even that will slowly lead to Old Tank Syndrome.  A far more appropriate schedule would be 25% twice a week, or 50% weekly.  
 
Water changes are not NEARLY as stressful as you are suggesting for fish, especially compared to the stress they go under from insufficient water changes and the chemical build-up as a result.  I'd agree that the fish DO NOT need to be removed constantly from the tank during a water change, as has been occurring apparently.  But, in general, water changes are the lifeblood of success for properly keeping healthy fish in the home aquarium.  As I've pointed out previously, the fish is highly capable of handling lots of diseases on their own if they are kept properly.  It is often only when they are kept in poor conditions that the fish is then incapable of dealing with a disease (bacterial infection, fungus, parasite, etc.).  
 
Also, letting the water sit for 24 hours is great if you are only dealing with chlorine in the tap water.  BUT, many water treatment facilities are now using chloramines, because they are much more stable and don't gas off.  As a result, the chloramine is still in the water.  A proper dechlorinator will deal with the chloramine, resulting in less issues for your fish.  The best solution for a proper water change is to use 'roughly' temp matched water (within a degree or two) that has been dechlorinated.  This water should be added 'gently' to the tank so as to not cause extra stress.  Many times in my own tanks, my fish will 'play' in the new water as it enters the tank.  Were it stressful for them, they'd be finding a good hiding spot and steering clear.