We need:
Photos
Tank size
Exact numbers for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH, with KH/GH (hardness) also being fairly important
Diet
Number of water changes
Was your tank cycled (i.e. had a full bacterial colony grown by adding ammonia to the tank) before you started?
Hi, I bought a water testing kit, I dont have a clue what I'm doing and I dont know what this means or if it will make any sense to you
Ph is 8
KH 10d
Nitrates no3 25
GH 10d
Getting a picture of them is impossible, I noticed that they have bits of fins and tail missing so I thought it might be fin or tail rot, I treated the water for a week and then did a partial water change, they were lifeless and played dead till I was done. I haven't actually seen them eating anything, they are being fed tropical fish flakes, I dont know how to cycle the tank, I did leave it for a few weeks before adding the fish. I have done 1 water change as I havent had them very long and the instructions on the anti bacterial treatment said not to do it untill the treatment was finished.
Heya,
That test kit has some good stuff on it, such as pH, nirates and hardness (GH/KH). However, the most essential tests are for ammonia and nitrite. These are NH3 and NO2-. These chemicals are part of the natural lifecycle and eco-system of the tank but unforunately, in a newly set up tank the eco-system isn't fully formed yet. This means that ammonia and nitrite get out of control and do a lot of damage to the fish. Eventually, the eco-system will become complete as special bacteria will grow in your filter and these bacteria will remove the ammonia and nitrite from the water.
This process of an eco-system being formed is called "cycling" and is essential (and un-avoidable) in a new tank. It takes 4-6 weeks and is very tough on the fish. A lot of fish die during the process which is why we recommend something called a "fishless cycle", which is a way of growing the eco-system before the fish come along.
Don't treat your fish for any diseases yet - many treatments stop the eco-system in the tank from forming or will damage a fully formed eco-system. Most of the illnesses you see will be because of the toxic water and so your priority needs to be testing the water and doing any necessary water changes to keep the fish safe.
If the fish were put through a cycle when you first set up the tank they could be feeling delayed affects. As you've had the tank set up for a long time and not done many water changes, the ammonia and nitrite will have built up and up and up. The fish don't necessarily show signs of being unwell at the time (although many do). It is very common for the fish to seem fine for weeks or months and then suddenly die or become ill.
In a healthy and fully cycled tank (i.e. a tank with a healthy eco-system), we recommend an average of 25% water change a week. This removes the end product of the eco-system (nitrate) and also adds fresh water that invigorates the fish and helps replenish minerals and such in the tank. Basically - it stops the water getting stale and manky and keeps the fish happy and healthy.
When you do a water change, use what we call a gravel cleaner. Your local pet store should sell this. It's a two part thing - one is a bit of hose and this attaches to a stiff tube. This works as a syphon to pull soft muck (like poo and un-eaten food) out of the gravel, as if left these will rot and make the tank bad for the fish.
Check out the stuff in
this link about cycling and maintaining an aquarium. Really good maintainence should perk the fish up. If they don't get better, it could mean we need to have another think about medication or it could be that they've been too badly poisoned to recover.