janeywolf1
New Member
Thanks ever so much. Have a great bank holiday 
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Seachem Florish safe for gold pleco and cardinal tetras
- Thread starter janeywolf1
- Start date
Have a great bank holiday weekend.
Wise people don’t have all the right answers but they do ask the right questions
I use it about once a month in my planted tanks and I have no problems with it. Once the aquarium is established with fish waste, I dont need to use it very often.
janeywolf1
New Member
Arrrrr thanks for sharing that. Really helpful.
TwoTankAmin
Fish Connoisseur
Plant ferts when used properly should not harm fish or inverts. Of course the brand can matter because differnt manufaturers all have their own products and there will be some variation in them. It helps if one has done some gardening before as a lot of plants care etc. is similar for land and aquatic plants. They are not the samem but they tend to need similar nutrients and care.
Most plants that go into our tanks are grown specifically for that. The folks who grow them load them up with the ferts they need. Plants can store some amount of nutrients, The ones we buy normally come with a store of nutrients. The first thing the plants do when rooted in substrate is to work on getting new roots going. They begin to use their stored nutrients, so we do not need to fertilize initially after planting in most cases. This is especially teu for substrate ferts if one uses one of the pricey substrate products that are loaded with nutrients.
As for what ferts to use and how often, it depends on a number of factors The type and volume of plants is the first consideration. Some only need lower light levels, grow slowly and need less attention. On the other end of the spectrum are plants that are nutrient hogs, they also need high light levels and some even need added CO2 to thrive. So every planted tank is almost unique.
The next consideration is our water. It comes out of the tap with tother things in it. These are most often micronutirents and trace elements. But some folks have water that has nitrate in it. Nitrate is food for plants as is ammonia in the form of ammonium. (most of the ammonia in a tank turns to ammonium in the water). But, there is a second consideration involved and that is the stocking level for fish and inverts we might have.
This matters because fish make ammonia- their poop and their breathing create nutrients for plants. So the more fish in a tank, the less of the NPK nutrients we need to add. In a lower light tank with he easy to care for and slower growing plants one not need any added ferts at all. However, in a tank with demanding plants, one may need to add ferts more than once a week. In addition uneaten food and rotting plants material etc. all of which make ammonia and may also create other needed plant nurtients.
All of this can be a bit daunting when we first begin using live plants. And, like anything else in life, there is a learning curve. So it is usually a good idea when starting out with live plants that one start with the easier stuff and then over time, as we learn, we can start to ramp up into plants which require more active attention.
I would suggest you visit the Tropical site. They are one of the premier producers of plants for the aquarium trade in the world. They have excellent information on about anything plant. They also sell a fw types of fertilizers. I have been using their ferts in my tanks for about 22 years maybe a bit more.
Head here and have fun reading http://tropica.com/en/ It is one my my favorite plant sites.
One last observation about live plants, they are one of the best filters one can have. They use up things in the water that might otherwise accumulate. They provide cover for fish, break up sight lines and may even be food for some fish. Plants also make oxygen.
Most plants that go into our tanks are grown specifically for that. The folks who grow them load them up with the ferts they need. Plants can store some amount of nutrients, The ones we buy normally come with a store of nutrients. The first thing the plants do when rooted in substrate is to work on getting new roots going. They begin to use their stored nutrients, so we do not need to fertilize initially after planting in most cases. This is especially teu for substrate ferts if one uses one of the pricey substrate products that are loaded with nutrients.
As for what ferts to use and how often, it depends on a number of factors The type and volume of plants is the first consideration. Some only need lower light levels, grow slowly and need less attention. On the other end of the spectrum are plants that are nutrient hogs, they also need high light levels and some even need added CO2 to thrive. So every planted tank is almost unique.
The next consideration is our water. It comes out of the tap with tother things in it. These are most often micronutirents and trace elements. But some folks have water that has nitrate in it. Nitrate is food for plants as is ammonia in the form of ammonium. (most of the ammonia in a tank turns to ammonium in the water). But, there is a second consideration involved and that is the stocking level for fish and inverts we might have.
This matters because fish make ammonia- their poop and their breathing create nutrients for plants. So the more fish in a tank, the less of the NPK nutrients we need to add. In a lower light tank with he easy to care for and slower growing plants one not need any added ferts at all. However, in a tank with demanding plants, one may need to add ferts more than once a week. In addition uneaten food and rotting plants material etc. all of which make ammonia and may also create other needed plant nurtients.
All of this can be a bit daunting when we first begin using live plants. And, like anything else in life, there is a learning curve. So it is usually a good idea when starting out with live plants that one start with the easier stuff and then over time, as we learn, we can start to ramp up into plants which require more active attention.
I would suggest you visit the Tropical site. They are one of the premier producers of plants for the aquarium trade in the world. They have excellent information on about anything plant. They also sell a fw types of fertilizers. I have been using their ferts in my tanks for about 22 years maybe a bit more.
Head here and have fun reading http://tropica.com/en/ It is one my my favorite plant sites.
One last observation about live plants, they are one of the best filters one can have. They use up things in the water that might otherwise accumulate. They provide cover for fish, break up sight lines and may even be food for some fish. Plants also make oxygen.
Last edited:
janeywolf1
New Member
Hi thanks a million for all this, really really helpful. So in answer to my question, would you say seachem flourish is safe?
TwoTankAmin
Fish Connoisseur
When used properly, ferts do not harm fish. The water in nature is full of "fertilizers" otherwise ponds, lakes, streams and rivers could not support live plants.
I have had as many as 13 planted tanks and even kept one tank which required I add CO2. I have been adding needed ferts for many years and I have never had issues. I am also a user of Flourish Excel as a carbon substitute. While some folks refuse to use the product because they believe it is bad for fish. That is their right. But in 22 years of using it, (and not overdosing ever) I have not seen any issues with it. The only planted tank where I did not use it was the one tank where I used pressurized CO2.
Over time I changed my approach to live plants by staying with the easier to keep stuff. It makes for less work. My CO2 added tank took more of my time caring for the plants than several any of my other tanks many of which were bigger and contained more fish as well. I keep fish and I used live plants because it benefits them. But, they also look nice.
The one thing they never teach us when we start with plants is that almost all of them can outgrow a tank given enough time. That lovely looking planted tank will turn into an underwater jungle if we do not prune and replant with some regularity. The easy to care for plants which can do well with minimal ferts and lower light levels are where I ended up today. I wanted more of my tank time to be dedicated to the fish rather than to the plants. And then there are those tanks which contain fish and decor but live plants are not an option because the choice of fish means they will uproot and or eat them. Not all tanks should be planted.
For many years part of my hobby was breeding plecos. Their tanks had no plants and the tank lights were only on when I worked in the tank. And that is why this is such a great hobby. There are more ways to keep fish than we can imagine. The trick is to figure out what interests us the most and then to get good at it. But no matter what path we follow in this respect, it is important to enjoy it. If you do sooner or later you may find yourself doing the "happy fish dance."
I have had as many as 13 planted tanks and even kept one tank which required I add CO2. I have been adding needed ferts for many years and I have never had issues. I am also a user of Flourish Excel as a carbon substitute. While some folks refuse to use the product because they believe it is bad for fish. That is their right. But in 22 years of using it, (and not overdosing ever) I have not seen any issues with it. The only planted tank where I did not use it was the one tank where I used pressurized CO2.
Over time I changed my approach to live plants by staying with the easier to keep stuff. It makes for less work. My CO2 added tank took more of my time caring for the plants than several any of my other tanks many of which were bigger and contained more fish as well. I keep fish and I used live plants because it benefits them. But, they also look nice.
The one thing they never teach us when we start with plants is that almost all of them can outgrow a tank given enough time. That lovely looking planted tank will turn into an underwater jungle if we do not prune and replant with some regularity. The easy to care for plants which can do well with minimal ferts and lower light levels are where I ended up today. I wanted more of my tank time to be dedicated to the fish rather than to the plants. And then there are those tanks which contain fish and decor but live plants are not an option because the choice of fish means they will uproot and or eat them. Not all tanks should be planted.
For many years part of my hobby was breeding plecos. Their tanks had no plants and the tank lights were only on when I worked in the tank. And that is why this is such a great hobby. There are more ways to keep fish than we can imagine. The trick is to figure out what interests us the most and then to get good at it. But no matter what path we follow in this respect, it is important to enjoy it. If you do sooner or later you may find yourself doing the "happy fish dance."
janeywolf1
New Member
Hahaha wow thanks so much for the advice. I’ve watched friends over the years (30yrs) have beautiful tanks, I’ve only ever had pretty goldfish, but the last 6 months I’ve read a bit. Googled a lot, and YouTubed loads…… only added my live fish Friday afternoon so I’m just a little concerned they are all ok and doing fine. I test the water every 24hrs at the mo….. as imWhen used properly, ferts do not harm fish. The water in nature is full of "fertilizers" otherwise ponds, lakes, streams and rivers could not support live plants.
I have had as many as 13 planted tanks and even kept one tank which required I add CO2. I have been adding needed ferts for many years and I have never had issues. I am also a user of Flourish Excel as a carbon substitute. While some folks refuse to use the product because they believe it is bad for fish. That is their right. But in 22 years of using it, (and not overdosing ever) I have not seen any issues with it. The only planted tank where I did not use it was the one tank where I used pressurized CO2.
Over time I changed my approach to live plants by staying with the easier to keep stuff. It makes for less work. My CO2 added tank took more of my time caring for the plants than several any of my other tanks many of which were bigger and contained more fish as well. I keep fish and I used live plants because it benefits them. But, they also look nice.
The one thing they never teach us when we start with plants is that almost all of them can outgrow a tank given enough time. That lovely looking planted tank will turn into an underwater jungle if we do not prune and replant with some regularity. The easy to care for plants which can do well with minimal ferts and lower light levels are where I ended up today. I wanted more of my tank time to be dedicated to the fish rather than to the plants. And then there are those tanks which contain fish and decor but live plants are not an option because the choice of fish means they will uproot and or eat them. Not all tanks should be planted.
For many years part of my hobby was breeding plecos. Their tanks had no plants and the tank lights were only on when I worked in the tank. And that is why this is such a great hobby. There are more ways to keep fish than we can imagine. The trick is to figure out what interests us the most and then to get good at it. But no matter what path we follow in this respect, it is important to enjoy it. If you do sooner or later you may find yourself doing the "happy fish dance."
Expecting a spike in something…. I’ve got seachem stability (and prime) to help me out. Thanks again my friend and have a fab bank hol
I use only slow moving plant as I'm lazy enough to want to be able to have a tank that I never have to prune anything. Loll. I'm also lazy enough to want to try to maintain nitrate at 0 all the time without any water changes.
And with these kind of setups: My experience with High end Aquarium fertilizer is that "they are all really potent" and can trow a tank completely out of wack with minimal error. Fish Overstocking becomes a real issue fast enough too.
Many times just a touch of fertilizer at the right time can change everything. I try to manage my nutrients input and byproducts buildup versus water hardness Kh/Gh/PH by maintaining a TDS overhead that is consistent with something that fits with a normal natural environment while keeping hardness as straight as possible.
once a complete nitrogen cycle is established (yes even nitrate breakdown), Crossing a too high TDS threshold an automatic water change. No matter what, I don't even want to know what that stuff building up is. I want to keep it closest to the original water spec as possible...
The last time I was there, an accident blew everything off... And I had pristine water all the time with nearly no water changes. grr. But still there was a little sulfur gazes to manage with good vacuuming.
I'm getting back to this point atm and water should stop flowing next week. My TDS is slightly higher than incoming water and nitate is 0 steady. If it stands. I will probably be able to go back to 25% water change per months without problems. In the last 3 weeks I changed water for 3 years on that tank. This will hopefully concertize soon.
If all goes well I will probably Push a little on my two other abandoned nano tanks.
Being ready all the time for any kind of "spikes". Is the way to go
And with these kind of setups: My experience with High end Aquarium fertilizer is that "they are all really potent" and can trow a tank completely out of wack with minimal error. Fish Overstocking becomes a real issue fast enough too.
Many times just a touch of fertilizer at the right time can change everything. I try to manage my nutrients input and byproducts buildup versus water hardness Kh/Gh/PH by maintaining a TDS overhead that is consistent with something that fits with a normal natural environment while keeping hardness as straight as possible.
once a complete nitrogen cycle is established (yes even nitrate breakdown), Crossing a too high TDS threshold an automatic water change. No matter what, I don't even want to know what that stuff building up is. I want to keep it closest to the original water spec as possible...
The last time I was there, an accident blew everything off... And I had pristine water all the time with nearly no water changes. grr. But still there was a little sulfur gazes to manage with good vacuuming.
I'm getting back to this point atm and water should stop flowing next week. My TDS is slightly higher than incoming water and nitate is 0 steady. If it stands. I will probably be able to go back to 25% water change per months without problems. In the last 3 weeks I changed water for 3 years on that tank. This will hopefully concertize soon.
If all goes well I will probably Push a little on my two other abandoned nano tanks.
Being ready all the time for any kind of "spikes". Is the way to go
TwoTankAmin
Fish Connoisseur
As a rule of thumb I let the plants tell me what they need or don't. So at the start of a new planted tank I make an estimate of how much or what sort of ferts they will need. And then I start with a bit lower amount and see how the plants do. If they appear to need more, then I up the amount some and watch. I may n4eed to increase them even further/
Plants which have enough of what they need should look healthy and grow at their expected rate. Some may reproduce and/or flower in a tank and therefore the proper fertilizing routine should encourage that. But some planted tanks get all they need from regular water changes and fish related waste.
There are sites on the net which deal with the symptoms we can see because of a deficiency in various nutrients. Look at this thread as an example: https://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/threads/plant-deficiency-picture-diagram.62876/
Here is another decent find from the same search
https://www.aquasabi.com/aquascaping-wiki_nutrients_deficiency-symptoms-in-aquatic-plants
To find the pages linked above all I did was Google symptoms of nutrient deficiencies in aquatic plants
If you click on Images for the Google search, you will be very happy.
Plants which have enough of what they need should look healthy and grow at their expected rate. Some may reproduce and/or flower in a tank and therefore the proper fertilizing routine should encourage that. But some planted tanks get all they need from regular water changes and fish related waste.
There are sites on the net which deal with the symptoms we can see because of a deficiency in various nutrients. Look at this thread as an example: https://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/threads/plant-deficiency-picture-diagram.62876/
Here is another decent find from the same search
https://www.aquasabi.com/aquascaping-wiki_nutrients_deficiency-symptoms-in-aquatic-plants
To find the pages linked above all I did was Google symptoms of nutrient deficiencies in aquatic plants
If you click on Images for the Google search, you will be very happy.
janeywolf1
New Member
Hey I’ve got new growth
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