Ph At... Need Help

[mike455555]

okay my plants are melting due to high pH (8.3), i think,

tank specs

size: 60L
filter: fluval 105
tank at 24[sup]o[/sup]c
substrate: play sand
lighting: 2x 24W t5
CO2: DIY yeast system. 4 2L bottles (changing one a week)
ferts: EL dosing (dry salts) - stoped due to shrimp and Cu
how can i lower the pH to about 6.5-7.5

 

[Shaddex]

Huge water change. Taking that your tap water is within the range you need.

 

[mike455555]

im doing 50% a week.

 

[mark4785]

Is the CO2 getting into your tank properly? If so, how many bubbles per second do you have?

I have 3 BPS go into my 120 litre tank and obtain a PH of around 5.5. As your tank is half the volume of my tank and you have 1-2 BPS going in, you ought to be looking at the mineral content of your rocks. Sodalite, for instance, can raise PH fairly quickly.

You can lower your aquarium PH by introducing peat moss to the aquarium filter. Catapa leaves also reduce water PH when boiled or over time when not boiled.

In my opinion, you need to look at what is causing the PH rise rather than applying a temporary fix. If you leave the product/thing that is causing your PH to rise in the aquarium and ALSO introduce peat, you could end up causing unhealthy PH swings.

 

[mike455555]

i dont count BPS but the drop checkers in blue-green normally so co2 levels are okayish, as its a DIY set up i think its that which is causing the high pH, as for how to solve it maybe add a buffering agent once a week? or as you said peat moss i'll figure something out

 

[mark4785]

i dont count BPS but the drop checkers in blue-green normally so co2 levels are okayish, as its a DIY set up i think its that which is causing the high pH, as for how to solve it maybe add a buffering agent once a week? or as you said peat moss i'll figure something out

From experience, a buffering agent only has any effect in demineralised/RO water. If your DIY set is causing changes in the PH, this is acting has a buffer in itself by leaching things like magnesium/calcium into the water. To add another buffering agent to lower the PH wouldn't have that much of an effect.

Many pond owners experience PH rises due to loose cement getting into the water; adding a PH lowering agent in this instance would also be in effective.

You have to get rid of the source of the problem with a bit of elbow grease!

 

[mike455555]

what elbow grease would that be? water changes?

 

[mark4785]

what elbow grease would that be? water changes?

Removal of the thing causing the PH rise. I can't help you with finding the source unless you list the entire contents of the tank and everything connected to it.

 

[mike455555]

substrate sand, fish otocinclus 3, blue pearl shrimp 6 + babys assassin snails 3, pest snails, loads, size: 60L

filter: fluval 105
tank at 24[sup]o[/sup]c
substrate: play sand
lighting: 2x 24W t5
CO2: DIY yeast system. 4 2L bottles (changing one a week) defused by a fag filter (produces fine mist and alot cheaper than proper defusers )
ferts: EL dosing (dry salts)


plants:
aponogeton crispus
staurogyne repens
blyxa japonica
weeping moss
Fissidens Fontanus
Pogostemon helferi
HC
crypt (name it for me)
hair grass, Eleocharis parvula
an unknown plant (trying to relive it)

 

[fishytank101]

try some driftwood, it will release tannins that will lower ph. It will discolor the water some though. You should boil it or soak it if it is too big for a pot for one to two weeks until the water is as light as possible. You need to get it to sink of coarse too.

 

[byork]

Have you tested gH or kH? And by play sand I assume you mean silica based sand labeled washed and safe for use by children, right? I only ask because not all sand is inert not even play sand. You can always do the vinegar test on anything you may suspect.

 

[DrRob]

Can I double check your fert dosing? The mag sulphate in there will buffer the pH if it gets too much.