ONLY sterbai corydoras infected

Some fish are more susceptible to infections, be it protozoan, bacterial or viral. The Cories might be run down and they will be the first to get infected.

Indian Almond leaves don't do anything to help with protozoan infections.

Don't get Malaysian trumpet/ livebearer snails. Once they are in a tank, they are there forever, and they will eat the fish eggs so you won't be breeding anymore gudgeons.
 
Some fish are more susceptible to infections, be it protozoan, bacterial or viral. The Cories might be run down and they will be the first to get infected.
That makes sense. Thank you.
Indian Almond leaves don't do anything to help with protozoan infections.
Alright. Really good to know!
Don't get Malaysian trumpet/ livebearer snails. Once they are in a tank, they are there forever, and they will eat the fish eggs so you won't be breeding anymore gudgeons.
Oh ok loll. WONT be getting them
 
@Colin_T
Question with the salt.
On the first day of adding salt, how should that exactly be done? I've read your instructions on it a lot, but I just need more clarification
And it's 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons, correct?


Also, today, looking into the aquarium the water looks a lot fresher after doing the deep sand cleaning. So that's good
 
@Colin_T
These were the best I could get
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20250101_120144_capture.jpg


This one is my second worst guy (now first worst due to the death yesterday). I circled the really bad spot on him
20250101_120406_capture.jpg
 
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Then I got beautiful corydoras like these with not a single scratch
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Yeah that's bacterial, the kind that rots the flesh and you are unlikely to save the ones severely infected. Columnaris can do this but so can pseudomonas and aeromonas which are associated often with anaerobic pockets. The latter two are more likely to cause internal bleeding and bloody ulcers on the body, columnaris can eat away at the flesh and fins and often has a white slimy film.

Salt might help, so can tannins. This is not likely protozoan in nature, they don't eat flesh like this. I'm hesitant on salt with cories, it's doable, but imo, tannins are better in this case. No matter the treatment, it's not likely to be stress free on them. I'd try tannins first, very heavy tannins as it is the least stressful option of all your options. Give it a couple days, if no improvement or it gets worse then go for salt, and if salt isn't good, you'll need kanamycin (kanaplex brand name). It's more effective for columnaris infections. You will never know 100% which bacteria it is without a microbiologist looking at it under microscope, but you can also take a more educated guess depending on how the infection behaves.


I've seen this before with hoplisoma leucomelas, ate the entire face away and the fish wasn't able to be saved as it was too severe. But there's hope for the ones not affected as heavy, but I'd be guarded on the one with the whole scalp eaten away. Interestingly, the leucomelas is in the same family as sterbai, hoplisoma, while bronze are osteogaster aenea, a different family. My leucomelas was in same tank at the time as osteogaster, and the osteogaster were also unaffected while the hoplisoma was. So it's very plausible that hoplisoma are more prone to this particular bacteria, but that's just a hunch, not anything I'd expect any studies done on.
 
Yeah that's bacterial, the kind that rots the flesh and you are unlikely to save the ones severely infected. Columnaris can do this but so can pseudomonas and aeromonas which are associated often with anaerobic pockets. The latter two are more likely to cause internal bleeding and bloody ulcers on the body, columnaris can eat away at the flesh and fins and often has a white slimy film.

Salt might help, so can tannins. This is not likely protozoan in nature, they don't eat flesh like this. I'm hesitant on salt with cories, it's doable, but imo, tannins are better in this case. No matter the treatment, it's not likely to be stress free on them. I'd try tannins first, very heavy tannins as it is the least stressful option of all your options. Give it a couple days, if no improvement or it gets worse then go for salt, and if salt isn't good, you'll need kanamycin (kanaplex brand name). It's more effective for columnaris infections. You will never know 100% which bacteria it is without a microbiologist looking at it under microscope, but you can also take a more educated guess depending on how the infection behaves.


I've seen this before with hoplisoma leucomelas, ate the entire face away and the fish wasn't able to be saved as it was too severe. But there's hope for the ones not affected as heavy, but I'd be guarded on the one with the whole scalp eaten away. Interestingly, the leucomelas is in the same family as sterbai, hoplisoma, while bronze are osteogaster aenea, a different family. My leucomelas was in same tank at the time as osteogaster, and the osteogaster were also unaffected while the hoplisoma was. So it's very plausible that hoplisoma are more prone to this particular bacteria, but that's just a hunch, not anything I'd expect any studies done on.
Might be bacterial, but after looking at different things online and trying to find what it could be and what best matches the symptoms, could it be fungal?

This is an image I found online, it is NOT my fish, but it does show the symptoms of the excess slime or possibly fungus (besides the fin rot of course).

I'll do both tannins and salt. Idk when I'll be able to get the leaves, but I'll try soon
 
A note bout columnaris if that is the problem. It needs to be treated using an antibiotic.

Often when the bottom dwellers only are the ones being infected the problem is usually close to the substrate or in it. But your sand looks pretty clean so it may not be the problem. But it cannot hurt to vac. it.

What I can tell you, and which wont help much, is that the most difficult of this hobby with whcih we may be faced is disease identification.

One more thought here. Since only some of the sterbai are being infected if you can catch them I would put them into an H tank to be treated. This does not need to be cycled as you can be changing water daily or ever other day. If you do this and find a med you want to use here is how to do water changes and dosing.

When you remove the water you also remove the med in that water. So you need to replace it. However, if when you do a water change is also a day on which you add another dose of the med, do the water change and then dose the full amount of that days dose. The idea id to prevent the water changes from diluting the meds. But water changes are how you can keep an uncycled tank from becoming harmful.

Also, do not gp with a 100% bare bottom tank with nothing else. You can add a few rocks and some real or fake wood. When done you can sterilize all but the wood with bleach. The wood must be thoroughly dried out. It is better to let it dry for too long than not long enough. Proviving some cover for the fish helps to lower their stress level. Leaving the tank bare bottom makes it easier to spot uneaten fosdr or some expelled or detached parasites or worms. It also makes it easy to monitor the poop which can somethies proved the clue as to what the problem is.

The above is how I eventually learned how to treat my sick fish. It also saves the other fish in the main tank from the stress of being medicated for something they do not have whe we treat the whole tank. But there are some things we must treat the main tank for since they are fairly contagious.

Good luck with it.

p.s. I have kept an acid water stained tank for a numner of years. I use several things in it for lowering the pH which includes the catappa (aka almond) leaves. These hekp mostly to stain the water. Other things I use actually work to lower the pH- RO/DI water, alder cones and sometimes a little muriatic acid. So do not worry on that front. I also use Rooibos tea in the tank. It doesn't change h pH really and it help stain the water, but it also. I usually buy things like leaves, cones and Rooibos in larger quantities and will sell some to help defray my costs. Here is what my handout for Rooibos syas among other things:
For fish keeping we are interested in the plant phenolic compounds that act as antioxidants and also as antibacterials (it won’t harm filters). This is similar to the humic acids found in natural “tea” stained water. Oak leaves contain a lot of the plant phenolic quercetin (from the Latin name for the oak tree, Quercus robur). Rooibos also contains some quercetin plus the compound aspalathin, which is closely related to quercetin.
I got the Rooibos for the above reasons and it staining properties and have used it a few times as a med as well. It has worked a sometimes and not other times.
 
Might be bacterial, but after looking at different things online and trying to find what it could be and what best matches the symptoms, could it be fungal?

This is an image I found online, it is NOT my fish, but it does show the symptoms of the excess slime or possibly fungus (besides the fin rot of course).

I'll do both tannins and salt. Idk when I'll be able to get the leaves, but I'll try soon
Fungal infections do not eat the flesh like that of your fish. This is without a doubt bacterial. And a really nasty one as well.

Try more conservative methods like tannins and salt, in a QT tank as TTAmin suggests, and if those don't work go for antibiotic meds then. I don't recommend throwing antibiotics around willy nilly, but your case may require it due to the severity.
 
Fungal infections do not eat the flesh like that of your fish. This is without a doubt bacterial. And a really nasty one as well.

Try more conservative methods like tannins and salt, in a QT tank as TTAmin suggests, and if those don't work go for antibiotic meds then. I don't recommend throwing antibiotics around willy nilly, but your case may require it due to the severity.
Alright. Good to know.
Thank you.
I'll start with the salt either tomorrow or Friday.
I dont know when I'll be able to get the catappa leaves, but hopefully soon lol.
I'll probably get it with a new light cause I've been needing one anyways.
 
Fungal infections do not eat the flesh like that of your fish. This is without a doubt bacterial. And a really nasty one as well.

Try more conservative methods like tannins and salt, in a QT tank as TTAmin suggests, and if those don't work go for antibiotic meds then. I don't recommend throwing antibiotics around willy nilly, but your case may require it due to the severity.
Oh oops. I forgot to add the image in of the fish online I found. I'm an idiot. Sorry lol.
Again, NOT my fish, but one online that almost looks like what some of my fish have (Although the excess slime has gone down dramatically actually, which I'm very happy about)
Nicole Cory 3-6-20.JPG
 
Oh oops. I forgot to add the image in of the fish online I found. I'm an idiot. Sorry lol.
Again, NOT my fish, but one online that almost looks like what some of my fish have (Although the excess slime has gone down dramatically actually, which I'm very happy about)
View attachment 358062
That photo shows columnaris infection. Shows as a white to dark grey coating, often mistaken as fungal. But fungal will literally look like someone stuck cotton onto your fish. If that helps you distinguish the two apart.
 
That photo shows columnaris infection. Shows as a white to dark grey coating, often mistaken as fungal. But fungal will literally look like someone stuck cotton onto your fish. If that helps you distinguish the two apart.
Awesome. Now I know what it is!

And also, question for you and @Colin_T.
For the amount of salt being put in for two weeks, should I be worried about the plants? I don't want them dying off.
 
Awesome. Now I know what it is!

And also, question for you and @Colin_T.
For the amount of salt being put in for two weeks, should I be worried about the plants? I don't want them dying off.
This is where TTArmins advice is really good here (his advice is always fantastic, though, not just this part) but treat them in a separate quarantine tank, only the affected fish. Add the salt and tannins to the separate tank. Won't have to worry about your plants with a QT setup
 
I'm going to disagree with the diagnosis on the catfish in the picture from the internet. It has two patches of excess mucous, which would suggest external protozoa. It might be poor water quality as well but I don't think it's Columnaris.

The most commonly seen fungus on fish is Saprolegnia, which looks like thin white hairs sticking up from the body. Saprolegnia fungus only gets into damaged tissue and is easily treated with salt. There are no fish in this thread showing Saprolegnia fungal infections.

Regarding Rocky's fish, this is not Columnaris. Columnaris is a fast growing flesh eating bacteria that normally kills fish within 24-48 hours of noticing the symptoms. There are two main forms, one appears on the mouth and spreads over the face and head within 24-48 hours and the fish dies during that time. The other form appears on the back half of the body around and just behind the dorsal fin. Again, the fish dies within 24-48 hours of showing a white patch.
The fact this issue has been going on for about two months says it's not Columnaris. If it was Columnaris, every fish in that tank would have died two months ago.

If it was Columnaris, you would need antibiotics to treat the fish, but it's not so you don't need to worry.

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Cream white or grey patches on the fish are excess mucous caused by something irritating the fish. External protozoan parasites like Costia, Chilodonella and Trichodina cause these symptoms. They can cause the fish to rub on objects (but not always). They take weeks or months to kill a fish, depending on how clean the tank is and how heavily infected the fish is. They generally start out as a pale cream patch on the head or dorsal side of the fish. As the infection gets worse, the fish produces more mucous and the patch can turn white and then grey as it gets worse. The cream, white or grey patch is simply thick mucous. The more mucous the darker the colour. In extreme cases the area around the edge of the infection might start to bleed and look like a red line has been drawn around the patch.

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The dose rates of salt I recommended are generally safe for all freshwater fish and plants. Use 1 heaped tablespoon of rock salt for every 20 liters (5 gallons) of aquarium water. If there's no improvement after 24 hours, add another lot of salt (same dose rate 1 heaped tablespoon for 5 gallons) so there is a total of 2 heaped tablespoons of salt for every 5 gallons of water.

Normally I say add a second dose after 48 hours if there's no improvement, but due to the fish dying now, you should add the second dose sooner.

Keep the salt in there for 2 weeks.

There is no point treating the fish in a hospital tank because the disease (parasites) are in the main display tank. If you treat the fish in a hospital tank and don't treat the main tank, the fish will simply get reinfected when you put them back in the main display. Just add salt to the main tank and treat them all there.
 

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