Ok.. This Is Still In The Planning Stage..

[Siamese Fighter05]

Hey fishkeeper2004

If you want your cories to spawn you would be better off using a 10-15g spawning tank. Here is how i got my cories to spawn for me successfully:
* Set up the breeding tank - Bare bottom with a few plastic/silk plant bunched together in one corner to give the parent a hiding space for security. I used a small corner filter that was already to mature to keep the water parametres tip-top and to give out a good current.
* Condition the group - I used frozen foods like Bloodworm, brineshrimp and live blackworm (the first and last time i'll ever be able to get hold of them). I conditioned them for something like 7-10 days to make sure the females where fat and in shape.
* Using the spawning Trigger - I did a 30-35% water change with water a few degrees cooler, i then left the heater off for a few days until i got home and found eggs. I did the water change at night and turned the filter outlet down so it was shooting water into the tank like rain.
*Egg - When and if you do get some eggs, you will need to get an airstone underneath them to keep lots of water circulation to stop them from fungusizing and spreading. I removed the parents, plants and filter as soon as i found the eggs. Do a water change to make sure you have the best water quality possible for the fry when they are born. Make sure the eggs stay under the surface. The eggs will hatch after about 3-4 days and the fry will absorb their yolk-sac for the 1st day. I fed mine liqufry on the second day for 3 days until they were big enough to take Frozen BBS. Microworm is meant to be a good food for fry but i haven't tried them yet. When you get fry you will need to do daily 10-15% water changes as there will be no filter until they are at least 3-4weeks old. Feed them insmall quantities but enough for everyone to get some and feed often, making sure you clean up any uneaten food. Most of this info has been passed down to me from her Majesty Inchworm But i hope it can be some help to you and im sure everyone else will add to it

 

[Fishkeeper2004]

Hey fishkeeper2004

If you want your cories to spawn you would be better off using a 10-15g spawning tank. Here is how i got my cories to spawn for me successfully:
* Set up the breeding tank - Bare bottom with a few plastic/silk plant bunched together in one corner to give the parent a hiding space for security. I used a small corner filter that was already to mature to keep the water parametres tip-top and to give out a good current.
* Condition the group - I used frozen foods like Bloodworm, brineshrimp and live blackworm (the first and last time i'll ever be able to get hold of them). I conditioned them for something like 7-10 days to make sure the females where fat and in shape.
* Using the spawning Trigger - I did a 30-35% water change with water a few degrees cooler, i then left the heater off for a few days until i got home and found eggs. I did the water change at night and turned the filter outlet down so it was shooting water into the tank like rain.
*Egg - When and if you do get some eggs, you will need to get an airstone underneath them to keep lots of water circulation to stop them from fungusizing and spreading. I removed the parents, plants and filter as soon as i found the eggs. Do a water change to make sure you have the best water quality possible for the fry when they are born. Make sure the eggs stay under the surface. The eggs will hatch after about 3-4 days and the fry will absorb their yolk-sac for the 1st day. I fed mine liqufry on the second day for 3 days until they were big enough to take Frozen BBS. Microworm is meant to be a good food for fry but i haven't tried them yet. When you get fry you will need to do daily 10-15% water changes as there will be no filter until they are at least 3-4weeks old. Feed them insmall quantities but enough for everyone to get some and feed often, making sure you clean up any uneaten food. Most of this info has been passed down to me from her Majesty Inchworm But i hope it can be some help to you and im sure everyone else will add to it

Thanks! Just one small query to clear up, can I condition them in my 180L tank, and then move them to a smaller tank after 7-10 days of conditioning - then do the water change in the breeding tank, or would this interrupt the whole process? Thanks..

Is it a must to have a smaller tank, or do you think they would still breeding in a 180? (Just thinking about where I fill fit another tank in my room.. )

 

[Barracuda518]

8 hours after the eggs are layed, you can move them. You have to be extremely careful with them as they are still very fragile. Depending on where they are, you can gently move them. Some of mine were on the thermometer, so I just moved it to the 10 gallon fry tank. I also had some on the filter intake tube and I gently pushed them off with my finger and stuck them to the side of the tank by the airstone. Also, remember, you need a constant circulation over the eggs to help them hatch and to keep fungus from growing on them. Put an airstone directly under them to keep circulation. If you dont feel comfortable moving the eggs, then I wouldnt do it. It took me a while to move mine because I was being extremely careful with them and they all hatched

Good Luck B)

 

[Fishkeeper2004]

I would definately take extra care when moving any eggs, and I know you must keep them submerged underwater at all times. One questions, if eggs are just scattered around on gravel, or on the tank glass, (meaning I can't just lift out what they are stuck to and place them in another tank) can I move the eggs gently with my hand, or does anyone know maybe what I could use as a safer option of moving them?

 

[Inchworm]

Ok thanks for all your help. I just have another question which maybe you could answer, its nothing important im just intrigued. What exactly is the T Position? Just something so I can look out for it.

Hi Fishkeeper2004OK

This is what the T position looks like:

Shortly after that you will see the female carrying eggs between her ventral fins. She will most likely place them on the tank glass.

You have been given some excellent advice on this thread already.

The reason I like to spawn my corys in a seperate, bare bottomed tank, is so that the fry can be more easily cared for while they are small. This is a critical time and if they do not eat well or if the tank isn't kept very clean, you run the risk of loosing them. Also, they could be lost in the gravel, or the adult fish might not know they are fry and eat them. IMHO, it's easier and safer to move the fish and clean out the gravel, than it is to move the eggs.

It's a good idea, I might add, to plan what you will feed the fry before you spawn the corys. A microworm culture is easy to start, but takes a couple of weeks to get going to where it is productive. These tiny nematodes will also be enjoyed by livebearer fry, if you have any.

 

[BWBettas]

this thread has been brilliant ive been lookig all over the web for this stuff and finally i get it so comone buy your randy cories