Official Advice Topic

Thanks Bignose. So, to clear this up, are you saying that:-

1) Dechlorinator is not necessary as the levels of chlorine and chloramine in our tap water are not high enough to have any significant impact on the filter bacteria.

I think dechlorinator is still necessary for the fish...

that's a fair comment, would you care to provide your reasoning and any evidence you have for your stance? though, for what it is worth, dechlorination, is unnecessary in the UK. lol more than a few breeders and shops, if they are honest, will confirm that. I personally only use it for my Newts.
 
A lot of people don't use dechlorinator... I don't.. I mean it's only necessary for water that has chlorine in it, so it won't harm the fish.
 
Whoa gotta say 1st, thank you to everyone who as replied and given advice and different methods on water change. I have up-dated the 1st page.

I use dechlorinator as I have been told its very important as water from the tap is harmful to fish.

Also may I ask that if anyone can actually post pictures next time they doa water change? I would be very gratefully as it would give me a better understanding and also show what you use and how you use it.

Cheers
 
I maintain 22 tanks, and as such water changes are a big part of the hobby for my roomie and I.

This procedure has worked for us for the past 7 to 8 months with no problems, but I would not suggest that will work as well or at all for everyone.

First and foremost is the python. Hook that puppy up to the sink and turn the water up to get good suction going. I vacuum the gravel to clean out any accumulated debris and add dechlorinator to the water after Im done cleaning. In young fry tanks, I do 25% 3 times a week. In adult tanks I do 25 - 35% weekly depending on the tank size/stocking density. I always vacuum the gravel and I always add my dechlorinator before the tap water goes back in.

In tanks with old style lids, I can usually clean the entire tank no problem through the lid opening, with the newer lid models the openings tend to be narrower and I have to remove the lid ( a pain because I use the light to see when a gravel patch is debris-free.) I do not dechlorinate for the volume of the tank but for the amount of water Im putting in. Because water changes are done frequently, there is still dechlorinator present from previous changes so I dont need to add too much, this is great because it saves money.

I try to set up any decorated, and especially planted tanks with plant/deco free zones which give me easy access for gravel vacuuming. When you're cleaning many tanks this will save a lot of time and hassle usually spent re-placing all your lovely stuff. Once in a blue moon though, this is inevitible and you will have to clean the accumulated plant debris and other detritis that build up in the areas you have decorated. If you leave yourself some breathing room with the deco though, this will be a much less frequent occurence. It also gives your fish a nice place to swim out to and grandstand for viewing audiences, makes them the centre of focus in the tank.

Don't take your fish out of the tank when you do the water changes. This is an unneccessary waste of time because you wont be doing more than 35% removal if you do things right. Also, a lot of fish enjoy swimming into the stream of new water as it falls into the tank. On that note, be sure your tap water is roughly the same temperature as the tank water. Temperature fluctuations can have all sorts of different effects on you fish. Sometimes, this is desirable, like when it causes spawning, but other times it can cause shock or physical harm to your fish. Also, make sure you let the water flow in gently, don't try to save time by getting it in as fast as you can.

I also find that scheduling water changes into your week (for example we do ours M,W,F, after dinner) can make it much less of a task and more of a routine. THings seem to go faster this way also.

Some final tidbits I would add are that I do not wash my sponges under tap water ever. It is true that certain cities do dispense water who's chemistry is suitable for doing this, but that isnt very common because if that is the case it probably isnt very drinkable by humans. I don't drink the water in Florida, but who knows, maybe the fish would love it. Where I live, I know the tap water is toxic to my fish, as I've seen how quickly they go into distress when exposed to it in its pure state.

Changing more than 35 and even more than 50% of the water is possible but be sure to dechlorinate properly. If I feel the need to do this sort of a change, I put dechlorinator in the remaining water and then also add it into the stream of water flowing out in small amounts. This, I think, hastens the break down of the chemicals in tap water doing less damage to fish and filter.

I also reccomend the simple sponge filter to anyone not running a large tank. You never have to clean those period and the important job of biological filtration is handled superbly. You can add ammo chips and carbon to them if you see fit as well, but it isnt neccessary. Most of my tanks run on them off of 4 air pumps which is also a huge savings if you are running multiple tanks. I do run some power filters where air tube access isnt available though, and more recently because an air pump went half dead on us and we had no other choice :p.

So, anyways, hope this helps. Feel free to comment.
 
The way i do it is similar to the python but not lol

i have a gravel vac which is connected to a hose pipe so when i pump the gravel pump it flows out of the 10ft hose pipe straight into the garden

when i am ready to ad water i have a 2 pieces of hose attached to each tap and then once the desired temp is achived i attach my hose leading to the vac pump and add dechlore to the tank at desired area the new water is comming in, at 3 different times
 
sounds alot better.
the only thing i could see was about catfish

most will not help at all. a few fish will help clean algea but thats it. when you start talking about plecs the produce alot more waste than they will clear.

few fish/scavengers that will help a little with algea is
Oto's (Otocinclus)
amano shrimp.


chris

i might get a few pics if i remember/have time
 
Also may I ask that if anyone can actually post pictures next time they doa water change? I would be very gratefully as it would give me a better understanding and also show what you use and how you use it.

Cheers

My water change setup is a little different from most, having mostly bare tanks in a breeding setup. The few decorated tanks I do have get the usual gravel vac to start, then drained with the same siphon setup I use for bare tanks. Bare tanks get the bottom wiped with an algae scraper, then vacced with a plain siphon, much cleaner than gravel.

In this pic the top grey gizmo is an algae scraper, I believe it’s a Marineland product. Below that is a potato chip bag clip with a folded paper towel, excellent for the bottom of fry tanks. Below that is a piece of tubing attached to a wooden dowel for siphoning the bottom of fry tanks. Below that is a small powerhead with some tubing for filling fry tanks. The little 2.5 & 5 gallon tanks still get filled from a bucket, with the powerhead. This gives me better control over temperature & flow rate, A quick blast of water at tap pressure will wipe out a couple hundred fry in a second.

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Part of my siphon hose collection, the clamp on the vac is so I can clamp it to the can, the large black hose is for cleaning bare tanks, it will suck out gravel;

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For water changes on larger tanks I use a siphon hose setup, that goes into the garbage can with a pump which is rated at 1400gph. I have differing lengths of pvc for the ends of the drain, they stop draining when they run out of water. The can pump is plugged into a switchable outlet on the floor, so I can shut it on & off, the hose drains into my sump pump at the other end of the basement;

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When I’m draining 5gpm+ with that siphon hookup, adult angels will get sucked flat to the ¾” pvc, fry will go on the ride of their life. I have pre-filter sponges that go over the end;

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I fill straight from the tap, hot & cold mix. The left hose lets me adjust temperature before I switch it to the fishroom hose on the right. The short hose is also great for cleaning smaller tanks, washing the dog, all sorts of household things. This sink has gotten the snot kicked out of it over the years, and keeps running;

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I also have a shutoff at the fishroom end of the hose, with a smaller pvc J to hook on tanks;

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I use Prime to treat the water during the winter, and during foul weather, a sodium thiosulfate mix during the summer when weather is mild. I just squirt it in before, during, or after, it doesn’t make a difference. I have a children’s medicine dropper, graduated in ml, easy measuring. My water supply, and its variances, is a long story involving the history of Chicago. I do 50% or better weekly, depending on the tank & stocking. I have done 50% water changes in the summer with no dechlor, and noticed no difference between identical tanks with identical stocking after a couple of hours. I got bored watching fish waiting for a problem, so added dechlor to the untreated tank & went to do something more exciting.


As Alistriwen stated, air power is the way to go with multiple tanks. Here’s a pic of my air pump, an Alita AL-60, 68lpm at 2.0psi. It’s next to a 55 gallon, for size reference, and the fishroom is below my son’s room, for noise reference. It’s a very quiet pump, rated at 65-75 outlets. I’m running somewhere around 45 ATM, and bleeding off air. The flex tube connection helps to keep vibrations from transferring to the pvc;

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Here’s a typical filtration setup on a tank with a pair of silvers. The sponge filters are low flow bio filtration, the box filters I leave on a slow bubble when I’m not home, as they get noisy when you open them up, think mad scientist laboratory. I usually open them up in the evening, as long as my son who works some wild rotating shifts isn’t trying to get some shuteye;

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The box filters are from Jehmco, item number LJRBF. Give them enough air & they filter as well as a hob. The sponge filters are home made;

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The sponges get cleaned in dechlored water, the floss in the boxes gets tossed after a week or two, depending on the stocking. I always leave a couple for 3 weeks, in case anyone needs cycled filter media. The floss is just plain polyfiber from Walmart, used to stuff pillows. I run these in everything from 10 gallon tanks to 150 gallon tubs. The 2.5 gallon hatching tanks get just a sponge, as do larger tanks with smaller fry, the box filters will suck up fry.

My tanks are in my profile, you can add another 20 & a couple of 15’s to that list.
 
Something else I forgot to mention is that you should always turn off your heaters before doing a water change. If your heater gets too hot out of water and colder water hits it your heater may crack and then it is toast.
 
Damn i just took 24 hours changing the water in my 900 gallon using a yoghurt pot, only another 275 gallons of water to change from the other tanks an i'll be finished by tomorrow lunchtime.
 
Damn i just took 24 hours changing the water in my 900 gallon using a yoghurt pot, only another 275 gallons of water to change from the other tanks an i'll be finished by tomorrow lunchtime.
Seeing as it's Christmas(ish) why don't you get yourself a mug, that should save an hour or two?
 
Something else I forgot to mention is that you should always turn off your heaters before doing a water change. If your heater gets too hot out of water and colder water hits it your heater may crack and then it is toast.

yeh a very good point this! i have my heater at 45° off vertical, this means i need not switch it off, even with a 50% change.
 
Something else I forgot to mention is that you should always turn off your heaters before doing a water change. If your heater gets too hot out of water and colder water hits it your heater may crack and then it is toast.
I use these Switch Plugs for my heaters. Plug them in to the outlet or power strip then plug the heater into it. This way when changing water just flip the switch to shut the heater off.
 
Hey guys I will be doing Illness and treatment tomorrow or at the weekend.
 
I use these Switch Plugs for my heaters. Plug them in to the outlet or power strip then plug the heater into it. This way when changing water just flip the switch to shut the heater off.

I use the power bars with switches too. I have almost all 22 tanks on two different bars with only the ones that arent in the same area being on different switches. For those we generally tilt the heaters since most of ours are now fully submersible anyways. For the tanks on bars though we just flip the switch, keeps the tanks looking nicer with the heaters all straight and it's just not worth the risk.
 
I use these Switch Plugs for my heaters. Plug them in to the outlet or power strip then plug the heater into it. This way when changing water just flip the switch to shut the heater off.

I use the power bars with switches too. For the tanks on bars though we just flip the switch.

You mean a 6 outlet power strip? if thats the case then flipping the switch on that will shut off everything right?

I use the power strips too but i plug the Switch Plug into the power strip so i can shut the heater off by itself, eliminating the trouble of unplugging the heater but being able to keep everything else on. (lights etc.)
 

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