Offical Freshwater Snowflake Moray Eel

meyerev

New Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
37
Reaction score
0
Location
Platteville, WI, U.S. of A.
Freshwater Snowflake Moray Eel
Gymnothorax tile

Origin: Brackish Waters of the mouths of rivers in the Philippines or Indonesia

Max size: Different estimates for confined eels but max size in the wild is around 4ft or 122 cm
However I have read that most eels only reach 2 ft or 61 cm in captivity

Life span: Normally bought as infants to young adults these eels can last up to 3 years, rarely, in fresh water. In brackish usually easily 3 years and registered account of around 15 years in captivity

Tank size: Can be kept for a while in only a 10 US gallon, 38Liters. This will become inefficient very quickly though. For most websites will require at least a 55 gallon, 208 L. I have a 14 in. eel in a 26 gallon and so far he is quite happy

Special Requirements: These eels are nocturnal and thus need someplace to hide during the day example over turned flower pot or a dark cave. Since these eels hunt at night to get full effects I recommend purchasing a LED coral light or some other dark light. A good cover this is an eel and eels will leave when scared or unhappy. Plants are nice but can be hard to grow in brackish water and are not necessary for this eel.

Water Requirements: Water gravity should be around 1.010. This should take around 6 months to obtain though, since these eels are sold normally in freshwater. SLOWLY RAISE THE SALINITY with sea salt, I prefer Instant Ocean. Can go in full marine conditions. I have not found any real articles on pH requirements so I may be wrong but around 7.8 seems to be what I can find. Needs to be fairly clean water/ good filter.

Diseases: Main disease/ problem is a bacterial slime coat which will develop if kept in fresh water to long. To treat this just raise the salinity. DO NOT treat with a freshwater treatment for most of these have a copper based chemical that will kill your eel. Read any treatment carefully to make sure no copper chemical is used. Otherwise a fairly healthy animal. However, many foods that the eel is likely to consume contain the chemical Thiaminase. This chemical blocks the uptake of Vitamin B. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_1/thiaminase.htm
Thanks nmonks

Temperature Requirements: Between 75 to 80 degrees F or 25 Degrees C (or for the odd balls 298 degrees K) Warning these little buggers have been known to break cheap underwater heaters.

Tank Mates: Any brackish water fish that is large enough to not be swallowed. Can you have more than one of these eels in the same tank? Reports say you can it is recommended however, that they are introduced at the same time or within two weeks of one another and are identical sizes. After a little while these guys can become territorial. Depends on their personality

Mating Habits: No successful captivity breeding have been achieved. This does not mean it is impossible. The hardest part to this process is actually finding a male snowflake eel. These eels lay eggs in freshwater habitats so to have them lay eggs you simply must change the waters gravity to become around 1.003. This should take place over a month in witch a female will produce and lay eggs. Afterwards slowly bring the salinity back up,

Gravel Requirements: I have used a light color sand. I have read that a dark substrate is recommended.

Warning: These eels have been known to bite. Their teeth are very sharp and have a toxin which can cause fingers to go numb.

Feeding Habits/ Foods: The most Trouble for all us eel lovers. Again nocturnal animals feed at night. Can train eels to come out during the day or when they sense you in front of their tank. These eels are almost blind so hunting is based more on smell. It is recommended to place food in same place every day. I know this may sound mean but I fish with my eel. I achieve this by obtaining some undied cotton thread and a safety pin, no sharp edges. I then clip a piece of food and dangle it in front of the eel. This has let me see what my eel will eat right now. These eels do regurgitate some food do not be worried if eel is throwing up.

Foods I have tried (all raw and uncooked) Just because they work or don’t with my eel does not mean it will or will not work in your experience.
Fresh Catfish Cubes- Fail :grr:
Fresh Cod cubes- Fail :grr:
Frozen Krill- Pass may float witch can be a problem :good:
Frozen Blood worms- Do not really know :grr:
Frozen Brine Shrimp- Do not really know :grr:
Mealworms- Fail :sad:
Red Earth Worms (dirt squeezed out) - Semi Pass :huh:
Guppies- Pass :good:
River Shrimp- Pass (Great if you are really worried about your new eel eating) :good:
Freeze dried Blood Worms- Fail :grr:

Fish that my eel has eaten but should not have or were not meant for it
Algae Eaters- pass (expensive food) :shout:
Goldfish- pass contain high amounts of Thiaminase read the article to find which foods have this :grr:
Rosy reds- died in brackish water and contain Thiaminase :grr:
Red clawed crab- pass :shout:

Other foods I have heard but am unsure
Night Crawler Chunks
Pinkie frozen baby mice :blink:
Frozen Silversides
Green Spotted Puffer- eel choked to death on this fish
Lance fish- marine Ammodytes – Seems to be a main food for many
Lobster
Shrimp
Freeze Dried Brine Shrimp
Squid
Crawfish
Cocktail Shrimp
Mussels
Prawns

Information From:
http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/Oddball,%20Moray%20Eel.htm
http://homepage.mac.com/nmonks/Projects/brackishfaq.html By: nmonks
Other websites Sorry I have read so many I do not know any more
On this Forum
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/295846-got-a-gymnothorax-tile-eel-any-info/
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/253633-gymnothorax-tile/
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/259652-moray-not-so-innocent-now/
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/248013-moray-eel-eating-crawfish-pictures/
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/216707-freshwater-moray-eel/
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/246751-yeah-my-eel-eats/
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/240134-help-dying-eel/ -spawning
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/237265-eel-not-eating/
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/310220-my-brackish-tank-and-suggestions-archer-moray-eel-scats/
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/235777-help-moray-hasnt-eaten-in-a-week-and-a-half/
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/236218-new-freshwater-eel/
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/230794-moray-eel-help/ -Longest running

This is only up to the ninth page can you say “Holy Eel”

1.001 is a little salt you spilled into the aquarium by accident
1.005 is low brackish
1.010 is medium brackish
1.015 is high brackish
1.020 is low marine
1.025 is perfect marine
1.030 is too high marine
Written by JawsA10
Any Information or experiences please share!! :good:
 
great fish these voracious eaters and they smell the food I am sure cos when I used to feed mine they used to go in a frenzy to get the silversides or mussel which ever was being fed

I had mine in 0.020 salinity and the seemed to prefer the higher salinity
 
I know a friend who fed the eel on prawns, and it was a snowflake eel.
 
Hi

I wanted to know when it comes to increasing the salinity for 'freshwater' morays people always express it as salinity levels what does this equate to in the amount of salt put in at one time and over what time period. Naturally it would have to be gradual but how gradual. Appreciate any input here.

Luke
 
I'd just say trial and error just add smaller amounts in water changes and keep checking with your hydrometer or refractometer whatever your using
 
Do i have to make sure the shrimp has been peeled? Or will he be ok eating it all?
 

Most reactions

Back
Top