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New Tank, Daily Test Results....fish In Cycle.

jotto

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Being a n00b and taking so called advice from our lfs, we set up our 75l tank, dechlorinated it, got it up to temperature ( 26 degrees ) waited a day or so before adding some stabiliser and a shoal of 7 Black Phantoms and a few plants.

Then, we discovered this forum and got worried about what we should have done, ie cycling the tank with no fish etc.
Anyway, read the articles and think we understand the basics. Have done our first water test and just wanted to know what you thought about the results.

PH 7.6
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrates 5

As this is such a new tank, in to our 3rd day, should we check it daily?

Also, just noticed the tank now has many micro bubbles in it. It was perfectly clear but now it has what looks like thousands of tiny tiny bubbles. What are they and why are they now foriming. Are they something we need to worry about?
TIA.
 
hello jotto,
Yes, I would check daily. When ammonia or nitrite readings are over 0.25ppm then you will need to do a water change 50-75% of your aquariums capacity.
I'm no expert but thats what i did with a coldwater set-up and it worked ok.

Skins.
 
Thanks for that, any ideas about the bubbles?
 
I would not worry, they will proberly go in a few days
 
Hi again,
going back to your water changes what ever you do DON'T clean your filter or its media as thats where all the bacteria colonies will set up camp. This is the bacteria which will take care of your ammonia and nitrites which could take 5-8 weeks to colonise :good:

Skins.
 
Hi again,
going back to your water changes what ever you do DON'T clean your filter or its media as thats where all the bacteria colonies will set up camp. This is the bacteria which will take care of your ammonia and nitrites which could take 5-8 weeks to colonise :good:

Skins.


No worries..that I have learnt! lol.
If my water tests give similar readings for say the next week, would it be safe to add a few more small fish? Will pick another small hardy variety. Any recommendations? Ideally want something a little more colourful.
TIA!
 
Dont add any more fish otherwise it will spike much higher than with the amount of fish you have in there now!. Keep an eye on the Tests, and if its all suitable, add a couple more fish each week, dont add too many at a time, as I found out! The Bubbles will cover everything until it has all settled down which should take around a week.

Dean
 
Hello,
Like i said i'm not an expert but personally i wouldn't add any more fish until your tank is cycled. No doubt somebody on here with much more experience will share there knowledge with you.

Skins.
 
Agree with Skins, this case is a Fish-In Cycling situation before it has really begun. Seven phantoms in a 20g is more bioload than you would cycle with, so its going to be better to do quick ammonia and nitrite(NO2) tests in the morning and evening if possible. What will probably happen is that it won't be linear, instead it will spike suddenly, especially the nitrite.

A Fish-In cycle often takes about a month but they vary wildly. The worst part is often in the beginning until you get a pattern of water-changing going, then it settles down and can be pretty easy. The way you know you're near the end is when you go two days with zero readings and no water changing, then you watch it for a week and your done.

The goal with the water-changing is to figure out a pattern of percentage-change and frequency of changes such that the neither of the two poisons can go above 0.25ppm before you can be home again to change more water. Its a narrow band between zero ppm (right after the water change) and 0.25ppm (after you've been at work or school etc.) Every tank/fishload is different, so you just have to go based on your own readings (which must be made with a good liquid-reagent based test kit, as the members can advise.)

~~waterdrop~~
 
Dont add any more fish otherwise it will spike much higher than with the amount of fish you have in there now!. Keep an eye on the Tests, and if its all suitable, add a couple more fish each week, dont add too many at a time, as I found out! The Bubbles will cover everything until it has all settled down which should take around a week.

Dean

The tank was completely clear, the bubble have just started this evening which made me wonder if there was a problem.

Hello,
Like i said i'm not an expert but personally i wouldn't add any more fish until your tank is cycled. No doubt somebody on here with much more experience will share there knowledge with you.

Skins.
Ive read about cycling but Im obviously missing something.....how will I know when it has cycled?

Just been looking at the tank and zipping across the front ( I was amazed at how fast it travelled ) was a small snail. I guess it came free with the plants!
Do I keep it or remove it?
P1010011.jpg
 
You will know that the tank is cycled when you can maintain good water chemistry without doing a water change for a whole week. During your fish-in cycle, you will need to adjust water change frequencies quite often to keep things under control, but as you approach the end the need for water changes will become less and less frequent. Eventually you will reach a point where your water stays at or near zero on both ammonia and nitrites with no help from you in the form of water changes. At that point you will have a tank that is fully cycled for the amount of biological load you have in the tank. As long as you don't change that load by more than about 30% each week, you should be able to gradually finish stocking your tank.
 
Thanks waterdrop and oldman...wd, you must have been typing at the same time as me....
Im testing using the API master kit so will test as you suggest and post my results.

Possibly a silly question but when changing out a percentage of the water, should the fresh water be as near to tank temp as possible so as not to disrupt the temp too much?
 
Yes jotto, not a silly question at all - its what we frequently refer to as "good water changing technique" and is an important skill for beginners (on a big hobbyist forum you often get lots of old experienced aquarists yakking about various loose ways they change water but my opinion is that they are so experienced at it that they've forgotten that they ever had to learn the basics in the beginning, lol.)

The temperature part can be described as important but not so critial as to be a hassle. You don't need to do long comparisons with thermometers. What I recommend is that you become practiced with using your hand to judge. I always use a big plasic cup filled with some of the old tank water that came out into the catch-bucket during the out-siphoning. In my own case I have a fiberglass lined hot water tank and am not worried about excessive copper or other metals (as a subset of our UK people are, from what I gather) so I stand at the sink putting my hand in the cup and adjusting the faucet to something that matches. When it feels about the same that means I'm well within the temperature tolerances of the fish. (In my case, my faucet lever retains this temp setting and I can turn it off and hook up the hose to this faucet head for direct filling of the aquarium.) The reason I advocate that beginners temperature-match by habit is that this is the safest recommendation that will cover all situations and often (as in your case) large water changes will be needed, so too much cold or hot would be too much of a shock to the fish (there will be plenty of time in the future to learn about -desired- colder water shots that stimulate breeding and special things like that - for now, as a beginner, its much better to be safe than sorry.)

Another "re-fill" part of good technique is to "condition" the water. This is simply the use of a product to remove the chlorine or chloramine that your water authority puts in to keep down the bacterial count in the pipes so humans won't get sick. I've almost never known a beginner not to come away from the LFS without a bottle of this. The one tweak to this that I recommend is to dose this stuff at 1.5x to 2x whatever the instructions say but not more than 2x. This is specifically for people who are cycling and/or have tanks building up to the first year of filter maturity (beyond that the extra dosing is not needed.) The reason is to gaurd against that rare occurance where the water authority overdoses the chorine product (yes, they do sometimes "shock" their pipes with extra chlorine) at the same time as you, the cycler, happen to have a young, weak colony of new bacteria! If you don't have, or are replacing, conditioner, I recommend Seachem Prime as the stuff that gets glowing reports from nearly all our experienced people. Its got great extra features for beginner problems.

Finally, back to the business of taking out the water in the first place! Always do that by doing a "substrate-cleaning" process (us a gravel cleaning siphon head if you have gravel, or a sand-technique if you have sand.) Why the heck would I do this in a new obviously clean looking tank, the beginner will ask? The reason is... invisible! The nitrite and nitrate products we are worried about are not visible, obviously, and they are mostly charged ions. They tend to be attracted to other molecules that happen to have opposite charge and often those are larger organic molecules that have enough weight or size to get themselves collected down in the gravel where the circulation has been hampered a bit (again, all of this still being potentially invisible to you, the aquarist!) Now nitrites(NO2) and nitrates(NO3) are things you truly want to go out of the tank as much as possible during your water change, so you want to get your clear, cleaning cylinder (or your simple hose if you have sand) down there where they are hanging out! Its more work than simple "bailing" but its something you must always do for the most part and a really good solid habit to establish for yourself.

~~waterdrop~~ ( :lol: congrats! you won the coffee induced morning excessive answer, lol)
 
~~waterdrop~~ ( :lol: congrats! you won the coffee induced morning excessive answer, lol)

ooh ooh...do I win a prize do I do I???? lol

Thanks for the info. I have a gravel type siphon so all good with that. WIll check water quality as soon as I get home.

What about my racing snail, can he stay?
 
To be honest, I would 'pre-empt' the ammonia levels rising, by conducting a water change at the same time every day or every other day.

When I fish in cycle (I always use that method - works for me!) I change (depending on species/size of tank) 10-30% of the water every other day, and test before the water change (testing the removed water).

Its also a good idea to keep a diary/photo diary of the test results, so that you can see change.

The problem with testing every day, is that in such a small volume, concentrations of substances vary rapidly over very sort periods of time. Testing at the same time (and in the same way) over slightly longer periods, increases the sensitivity of the test.

Good luck!
 

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