New 50 gallon stocking ideas

[Byron]

Hi, I just remembered that congo tetra exist! I think it might be a good center fish for my tank since I want something very peaceful. In a 50 gallon would 6 congo tetra work with maybe 10 corydoras, 15 other smaller tetra, 5 otocinclus and maybe one bolivian ram ? I am not really good at knowing if something is overstocked/understocked and the bioload of a fish so that is why I am asking

Increase some of the numbers, otherwise no problem here. I checked back and this is a 4-foot tank, so a group of Congo Tetra would work very well. I would get 9-10, and roughly even male/female ratio (5m/5f, or 5m/4f). I have twice had this fish, once back in the 1980's with six in a 4-foot 50g, and more recently ten in a 4-foot 90g. The volume is not the issue, tank length is with this fish. They are not that rambunctious, though they do periodically like to have relay races where two males would seem to be having a race from end to end, taking turns leading.

Bolivian Ram is good; this will remain close to the substrate (they are substrate feeders), while Congo always remain mid-tank provided they have floating plants as they do not appreciate overhead light that much. My floaters needed thinning every 3 weeks to open up some surface space, and without fail the Congos would be lower in the water column for a few days following, until the plants had begun to grow back to cover the surface.

Other tetras are fine with Congo. I have never seen a Congo go after any other fish,but given their flowing fins (males) the other fish must be very peaceful and not in the slightest prone to fin nip.

 

[Austin Burgess]

Angelfish (whichever species) is a shoaling fish and is always found in groups in their habitats. The groups are not that large compared to other shoaling fish like Corydoras, the characins, etc. I have noticed shoals of a dozen or so in videos of habitats, but that does not mean they may not have larger shoals elsewhere. This fish should either be maintained in a group of at least five (recognizing the likely issues as the fish mature) or a bonded mated pair. Some do keep it as a lone individual, and I cannot say how the fish feels about this, but keeping in mind their inherent nature which is in the fish's DNA programming, and Dr. Loiselle's comment in green in my signature block, I must assume the fish is not very happy. The same applies to discus, which is similarly a shoaling species.

Other cichlids vary depending upon species. The common or blue ran, Mikrogeophagus ramirezi, occurs in the oases that dot the savannas in the catchment area of the central Orinoco in Venezuela and Colombia. Linke & Staeck (1994) report the fish found in small streams in the oases, but only where overhanging vegetation and branchwork and leaf litter within the streams along the banks provides shelter from predators; a local fisherman said such areas hold "few" ramirezi, whereas more southern areas have more such zones and thus larger groups. This however is not a shoaling species; the fish just happen to live in proximity to one another, governed it would seem by the landscape. The same authors reported the solitary nature of the Mikrogeophagus altispinosus.

As for other dwarf cichlids such as Apistogramma, this depends upon the species. Some are harem species. None are shoaling in the strict sense of the term.

Gourami vary depending upon species. This group is very close to the cichlids in behaviours and temperament. I would have to research individual species, but there are some that do very well in small groups (though this is not "shoaling") in the aquarium, while others clearly do not.

Thinking from a centerpiece fish for a smallish aquarium, would you say that there is some apistos that would thrive alone in a community tank? Or would rams be really the only dwarf cichlids capable of keeping alone?

 

[Meg0000]

Picking up a couple of issues from recent posts...

If Pearl Gourami (and this is a real beautiful fish) a group of five (two males, three females) would be good in this sized tank. This is minimum (when more than a pair) and seven or eight, with mpore females to males, wold really be a sight. Floating plants. Ideal.

Neon tetra are healthier in cooler rather than warmer water. Also, given their common weakened state these days due to decades of inbreeding from commercial breeding, the cardinal tetra would be a better fit. It likes warmth. And on temperature, cories generally prefer the cooler temperature of neons, but a temp of 78F would be OK especially for the few species that do tolerate this better, like Corydoras sterbai and C. duplicareus [the usually-labeled "adolfoi" but which are almost always duplicareus). And the orange post-orbital flecks of C. duplicareus nicely complement the orange pectoral fins of C. sterbai. These two species are often suggested with angelfish and the same holds for pearl gourami.

This answers the listed stocking, and you have room for more fish if you like. I would look at rasboras next, a group of 15 or so of Trigonostigma hengeli or T. espei. The former has that brilliant copper patch which again picks up the orange from the mentioned cories so another nice colour complement.

Hi, I did more research on them and if I have 2 male/ 3 female so wouldn't the males fight? Most site recommend 2 to 3 female per male but is there no big deal when it is heavily planted with floating plants?

 

[Byron]

Hi, I did more research on them and if I have 2 male/ 3 female so wouldn't the males fight? Most site recommend 2 to 3 female per male but is there no big deal when it is heavily planted with floating plants?

All gourami males are territorial, but the degree varies with the species and of course sometimes individuals. But the majority of the time, this is a more peaceful species, and given space a small group can be very attractive. Your tank is 4-feet, so if this were me I would certainly have two males and three or four females.

Floating plants are essential for any gourami because that is where they spend their time, cruising among floating vegetations looking for food, or building bubblenests if a pair spawn. Having a good separation in the lower part of the tank, achieved with plants and/or wood/branches, does help ensure peace.

 

[Meg0000]

All gourami males are territorial, but the degree varies with the species and of course sometimes individuals. But the majority of the time, this is a more peaceful species, and given space a small group can be very attractive. Your tank is 4-feet, so if this were me I would certainly have two males and three or four females.

Floating plants are essential for any gourami because that is where they spend their time, cruising among floating vegetations looking for food, or building bubblenests if a pair spawn. Having a good separation in the lower part of the tank, achieved with plants and/or wood/branches, does help ensure peace.

Ok I think you really convinced me I will defenetly get pearl gouramis (2 male 3 female). They are a really pretty fish and I love floating plants so I would have got some anyway also I will defenetly get more plants. thank you

 

[Byron]

Ok I think you really convinced me I will defenetly get pearl gouramis (2 male 3 female). They are a really pretty fish and I love floating plants so I would have got some anyway also I will defenetly get more plants. thank you

You're welcome. Have the floating plants before the fish so the latter will settle in much better which means less chance of trouble.

 

[Meg0000]

You're welcome. Have the floating plants before the fish so the latter will settle in much better which means less chance of trouble.

I already have frogbit from my other tank in it so for this part everything is alright

 

[Meg0000]

Also if a pair spawn, can I just take a small part of the bubble nest and try to raise some fry in a small 10 gallon? If yes then what food should I feed them? I was thinking to start a sort of worm culture like micro worm but maybe there is better Idk

 

[Byron]

Also if a pair spawn, can I just take a small part of the bubble nest and try to raise some fry in a small 10 gallon? If yes then what food should I feed them? I was thinking to start a sort of worm culture like micro worm but maybe there is better Idk

This excerpt from SF may help.

When the female becomes plump with eggs the male will construct a large bubblenest of up to 10″ diameter amongst the floating plants. He will then begin to display to the female. As the female approaches the nest the fish can be seen touching each other with their modified ventral fins. Spawning occurs under the nest in the typical anabantoid embrace. The eggs float upwards and the male shepherds them into the nest. Several more spawnings occur and between 200-300 eggs may be produced. When there are no more eggs the female is chased away. It is best to remove her at this point or she may be seriously harmed. The male then tends to the nest until the eggs hatch, usually in around 20-30 hours. The fry become free swimming in another 4-5 days, at which point the male should also be removed. They should be fed infusoria or liquid fry food for the first week, after which they are large enough to accept brine shrimp nauplii, microworm and powdered flake. The fry grow very slowly and care must be exercised when doing water changes as they are very susceptible to changes in water temperature for the first 3 months or so.

 

[Meg0000]

This excerpt from SF may help.

When the female becomes plump with eggs the male will construct a large bubblenest of up to 10″ diameter amongst the floating plants. He will then begin to display to the female. As the female approaches the nest the fish can be seen touching each other with their modified ventral fins. Spawning occurs under the nest in the typical anabantoid embrace. The eggs float upwards and the male shepherds them into the nest. Several more spawnings occur and between 200-300 eggs may be produced. When there are no more eggs the female is chased away. It is best to remove her at this point or she may be seriously harmed. The male then tends to the nest until the eggs hatch, usually in around 20-30 hours. The fry become free swimming in another 4-5 days, at which point the male should also be removed. They should be fed infusoria or liquid fry food for the first week, after which they are large enough to accept brine shrimp nauplii, microworm and powdered flake. The fry grow very slowly and care must be exercised when doing water changes as they are very susceptible to changes in water temperature for the first 3 months or so.

Ohh thank you, I didn't know about liquid fry food and this will be useful if I want to raise the fry. If they spawn in my tank, should I just remove the entire bubble nest with the eggs and put it in my 10 gallon so there would not be agression and then when they hatch I can just remove some by putting them in the 50 gallon so they will get eaten.

 

[Essjay]

I just want to say that I had previously read Byron's advice on pearl gouramis. My tank is an unusual size being custom built - its footprint is 42 x 18 inches. I decided to get 5 gouramis, 1 male and 4 female. Although they were large in size and males were quite obvious, one of the females still turned out to be a male, so I now have 2m 3 f. The one I knew was a male is the dominant one. He has a bright orange throat. The one that was supposed to be a female now has longer fins and a pale orange throat. I was concerned that I'd need to rehome the subordinate male, not easy as my local shops are currently closed with the lock down, but the dominant male chases the three females and the subordinate male equally.
I do have a lot of water sprite floating on the water surface which may have a lot to do with it - lots of hiding places among the roots.

 

[Meg0000]

I just want to say that I had previously read Byron's advice on pearl gouramis. My tank is an unusual size being custom built - its footprint is 42 x 18 inches. I decided to get 5 gouramis, 1 male and 4 female. Although they were large in size and males were quite obvious, one of the females still turned out to be a male, so I now have 2m 3 f. The one I knew was a male is the dominant one. He has a bright orange throat. The one that was supposed to be a female now has longer fins and a pale orange throat. I was concerned that I'd need to rehome the subordinate male, not easy as my local shops are currently closed with the lock down, but the dominant male chases the three females and the subordinate male equally.
I do have a lot of water sprite floating on the water surface which may have a lot to do with it - lots of hiding places among the roots.

I might change the stocking I planned then, having 1 male 3 female might be a safer plan. Is the dominant male chasing the other pearl gouramis like all the time or is it just sometimes? I just want something super peaceful or otherwise it will stress me for sure.

 

[Essjay]

He does not chase them all the time, just when they go near his favourite spot. With all the floating plants covering the water surface I cut the top off a polystyrene bowl and let it float to create a space for putting food in the tank. He hangs around underneath that and chases the other gouramis away, except when I put food in when he is too busy eating.

 

[Byron]

I waited for essjay to answer your question before offering some general comments on this topic.

Many fish species have some form of behaviourial interactions within the species, or cross-species, or both, involving or related to territory, dominance, gender. This is part of the fish's natural make-up, programmed into their DNA. Some species exhibit these behaviours to a high degree (many of the cichlids, some of the gouramis, many of the barbs for example) while other species show them to a lesser degree. When we can provide an environment that the species "expects," and these behaviours play out normally, it can be very rewarding for the aquarist.

I have the pencilfish species Nannostomus beckfordi in one of my tanks, and I've had this species for years; a strong trait of males is to align themselves side by side in a pair, and then do a sort of dance. Sometimes a third will join in. To the fish this is a very serious act of dominance, but rarely does it progress beyond the "dance." Many of the characins will do something similar, and most of us tend to call this "play" but of course to the fish it is a very serious matter. When I had my group of five Botia kubotai, the two largest fish (females, the alpha in this species) would do what we term the "loach dance." They would "grey out" (the patterning all but disappears) and then spin around each other very rapidly, forming a circle head-to-tail if that makes sense, and spin. They did this for hours at a time. I had these fish for more than eight years and no damage was ever done, but it was a fascinating part of the natural world playing out. [I gave the group away when I moved last year because in downsizing I could not have my 4-foot and 5-foot tanks.]

Some species, especially among the cichlids, some gourami, and some cyprinids (loaches, barbs) take this to a much higher level, with serious physical displays. In nature these are far less detrimental to the fish than they are in the aquarium, where the confines keep the fish in too close a confinement and significant stress leading to death can occur. This we should always avoid setting up. The tank size and aquascaping, and the numbers of the species, factor in.

Pearl gourami in a 4-foot tank should be fine, as essjay described.

 

[Austin Burgess]

Angelfish could work, in a group of no less than five, up to six or maybe seven. And 15+ Corydoras. However, male/female are likely, which means a pair might well form, and then you can have real problems, having to get rid of the other angelfish or alternatively moving the pair to a suitably-sized tank of their own--but of course, that means the group is now 3-4 and likely more trouble. Like all cichlids, and gourami, males are territorial to varying degrees (aggressiveness).

Dwarf cichlids are best with one species to a tank, and that means a pair for most of them. Apistogramma species are more common. There are also the two rams, the common or blue ram (in any of the varieties) and the Bolivian Ram. The first needs warm water, minimuym 80F (27C) and this can be difficult--cories for example do not like this and a few species might manage but not most. The Bolivian is not so fussy with temperature, and is nice as a solitary cichlid with groups of cories, tetras, etc.

If it was you keeping angels, Byron, what would be the solution in this case?

It seems quite a conundrum. 5-7 angels are needed, but the more angels the higher chance of a pair, which will leave you with less angels, and adding new angels to an established group is non-ideal. I can't see a solution to this.