Need a few beginner tips

KingJamesIII

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Hi I would just like to know what temperature, times to feed and maybe some things to watch out for. Also can someone explain to me what levels I should aim for? Nitrate, total hardness, total alkalinity and pH levels? I have had my first freshwater tank for 7 months now. It’s a 30 gallon tank. I have provided pictures. I’m just curious if I have the basics down.
 

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What is the GH (general hardness), KH (carbonate hardness) and pH of your water supply?
This information can usually be obtained from your water supply company's website or by telephoning them. If they can't help you, take a glass full of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Write the results down (in numbers) when they do the tests. And ask them what the results are in (eg: ppm, dGH, or something else).

Depending on what the GH of your water is, will determine what fish you should keep. Tetras, barbs, gouramis, rasbora, Corydoras and small species of suckermouth catfish all occur in soft water (GH below 150ppm) and a pH below 7.0.
Livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies) occur in medium hard water with a GH around 200-250ppm and a pH above 7.0.
If you have very hard water (GH above 300ppm) then look at African Rift Lake cichlids or use distilled or reverse osmosis water to reduce the GH.

Having a combination of tetras, rasboras and livebearers will cause problems in the long run. If you have hard water, the livebearers will do well but the others will suffer. If the water is soft, the livebearers will suffer but the others will be fine.

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You need a picture on the back of the tank to make the fish feel more secure.

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Stress from tank lights coming on when the room is dark can be an issue. Fish don't have eyelids and don't tolerate going from complete dark to bright light (or vice versa) instantly.

In the morning open the curtains or turn the room light on at least 30 minutes (or more) before turning the tank light on. This will reduce the stress on the fish and they won't go from a dark tank to a bright tank instantly.

At night turn the room light on and then turn the tank light off. Wait at least 30 minutes (or more) before turning the room light out. This allows the fish to settle down for the night instead of going from a brightly lit tank to complete darkness instantly.

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Don't feed the fish until the tank lights have been on for at least an hour. this gives the fish time to wake up start looking for food.

Adult fish that aren't breeding can be fed once a day on a variety of dry, frozen and live foods.

The following link has information about culturing food for baby fish but many of the foods can also be fed to small fish like what you have.

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Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate once a week.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

Clean the filter at least once a month and every 2 weeks is great.
Wash filter media/ materials in a bucket of tank water and re-use the media. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the lawn.

Don't use carbon or ammonia removing granules in filters because they aren't necessary. Sponges are the best type of filter media and will last 10+ years.

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The following link has information about what to do if your fish get sick. It's long and boring but worth a read when you have some spare time.
 
Happy day...I'm more of the 30% water change every couple of weeks, on account of having a lot of plants and not a lot of fish. I totally agree with the gradual light issue and I use some $5 timers on both the room and tank lights.
 
What is the GH (general hardness), KH (carbonate hardness) and pH of your water supply?
This information can usually be obtained from your water supply company's website or by telephoning them. If they can't help you, take a glass full of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Write the results down (in numbers) when they do the tests. And ask them what the results are in (eg: ppm, dGH, or something else).

Depending on what the GH of your water is, will determine what fish you should keep. Tetras, barbs, gouramis, rasbora, Corydoras and small species of suckermouth catfish all occur in soft water (GH below 150ppm) and a pH below 7.0.
Livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies) occur in medium hard water with a GH around 200-250ppm and a pH above 7.0.
If you have very hard water (GH above 300ppm) then look at African Rift Lake cichlids or use distilled or reverse osmosis water to reduce the GH.

Having a combination of tetras, rasboras and livebearers will cause problems in the long run. If you have hard water, the livebearers will do well but the others will suffer. If the water is soft, the livebearers will suffer but the others will be fine.

---------------------
You need a picture on the back of the tank to make the fish feel more secure.

---------------------
Stress from tank lights coming on when the room is dark can be an issue. Fish don't have eyelids and don't tolerate going from complete dark to bright light (or vice versa) instantly.

In the morning open the curtains or turn the room light on at least 30 minutes (or more) before turning the tank light on. This will reduce the stress on the fish and they won't go from a dark tank to a bright tank instantly.

At night turn the room light on and then turn the tank light off. Wait at least 30 minutes (or more) before turning the room light out. This allows the fish to settle down for the night instead of going from a brightly lit tank to complete darkness instantly.

---------------------
Don't feed the fish until the tank lights have been on for at least an hour. this gives the fish time to wake up start looking for food.

Adult fish that aren't breeding can be fed once a day on a variety of dry, frozen and live foods.

The following link has information about culturing food for baby fish but many of the foods can also be fed to small fish like what you have.

---------------------
Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate once a week.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

Clean the filter at least once a month and every 2 weeks is great.
Wash filter media/ materials in a bucket of tank water and re-use the media. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the lawn.

Don't use carbon or ammonia removing granules in filters because they aren't necessary. Sponges are the best type of filter media and will last 10+ years.

---------------------
The following link has information about what to do if your fish get sick. It's long and boring but worth a read when you have some spare time.
Wow thanks that’s a lot of good information that I never knew. I will have to get the water checked then, because I have no idea what the levels are! I’ll come back to this post as soon as I figure out the levels. Appreciate all the tips. Especially how to wake up/put to sleep your fish.
 
That’s good info for you +1 on it all...you can make life a bit easier by putting lights on timers and using brightness setting to ease the fishes into each cycle of lighting..

With the water there are websites for each water company where you can enter your postcode and it will give you info for your street..

I personally use carbon as it has its place in your armoury - it will remove tannins and phenols via adsorption (not absorption) and will remove smells and polish the water but it doesn’t help with the main 3 ( amm, nitrate, nitrite) it can also remove any medication.

I do a 30% water change weekly - 75 % is very high unless you have big fish producing a lot of waste.

As always - research and ask lots of questions!
 
I am a live plant person, 30-50% of the tank volume in live plants. 25% water changes once a week. Wash your filter sponges out in tank water only ( try to remove about 50% of the gunk). Feed only in the evening about 2 hours before the lights go out. Have your lights on a timer, start with 10 hours of light, I have my tanks come on at 11am and off at 9pm.
 
On the subject of lights - ive literally just bought some cheap LED strips with the little remote. Slide them into a long plastic waterproof tube and plug in.

You can then get your cycles and dimming function remotely. They work alongside my main big leds and compliment them nicely
 
Cichlids here so i do 30 - 40 a week and similar timings but go Daylight> Moonlight > Weird Blue / Green colour > All off.

Total Hardness 444 tests?
I’m not sure what the 444 tests means.. I’m pretty new to all of this.
 
its the number of tests completed so Total Hardness , measured in Mg/l low mid and high values. The end column is the number of tests completed. So basically the water company goes out throughout the year and takes samples of the water and runs all those tests.

The 444 on the Hardness(Total) line means they did 444 tests In the year.
 
Also if you really like a certain type of fish then you can adjust the water at the start and for any subsequent water change.

So ive had a brackish tank, cichlids / discus etc and they all require water that is way different to what comes out of my tap.

I use treatments and research my decor to nudge the water so it fits in with what the fish want.

I.e I dose a Malawi treatment for the hardness and use this ocean rock usually found in marine tanks that help to buffer the ph

Years ago it was a bit harder, but the water in your area doesnt really dictate the type of fish you have. Just make sure you research the requirements of the fish and match them.

The more work you put in now will save loads of time and money in the future and remember the wellbeing of the livestock is most important and giving them a environment as close to their natural home
 
From the link, the number you need is:

Hardness, total 73.5 mg/l.
The other numbers in that line mean that they tested the water 444 times, the highest level they measured was 193.8, the lowest was 7.s and the average 73.5.
There are two units used in fishkeeping - ppm and dH. Mg/l is the same as ppm and it converts to 4.1 dH. This is soft water. Even the highest figure they report (193.8 ppm/10.8 dH ) is middling rather than hard.



The other parameter of interest is Alkalinity - this is what fishkeepers call KH. It buffers pH against change. Your average is 55 ppm, or 3.1 dH, which is lowish. You may find your pH drifts downwards if you have things like wood in the tank, but if you keep soft water fish it will not harm them.
And your nitrate is 16.8 average (the report uses a different unit from fish keeping so I've converted it). Ideally we should keep tank nitrate below 20 ppm.
 

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