Nano Temps

crazyelece

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What temps are you guys seeing with your nanos. I have been monitoring mine and it wants to continuously climb to 85 degrees F. This is with the heater unplugged. I have been forced to leave the hood open to get the temp to stay around 80. Anyone have to deal with anything like this. And any suggestions to help keep it cool and be able to shut the lid.
 
What temps are you guys seeing with your nanos. I have been monitoring mine and it wants to continuously climb to 85 degrees F. This is with the heater unplugged. I have been forced to leave the hood open to get the temp to stay around 80. Anyone have to deal with anything like this. And any suggestions to help keep it cool and be able to shut the lid.


What brand nano? JBJ, Current, AGA?

The reason I ask is, if it's a stock JBJ NC12 DX or 24DX then the pump is probably the culprit. If you are doing a dry run(w/out fish or corals), unplug the pump. let it sit with the lights and heater on and see what the temps go to. If they stay lower then the pump is the faulty piece. Have it replaced by JBJ or better replace it with a MaxiJet Powerhead. Better flow rates and use less watts which reduces heat put out.

HTH,
TrekBear
 
Its a JBJ NC 12dx, and I upgraded to a maxijet 1200 with a split return. I also drilled a 1/2" hole in the first chamber and stuck the stock pump in there with a Hydor Flo. I figured the more flow the better! So is the MJ1200 too much, should I knock it back to a 900? Should I just disconnect the stock pump and not worry about the extra flo, and if I do should I put the Flo on the main return? Should I do both?
 
I would considering pulling the stock pump and see how your temps go before investing in anything new. Afterall, the MJ1200 produces 295 GPH flow (under optimal conditions) would be more than 20X flow in a 12G....that should be more than adequate. My 24G has both those pumps. SH
 
Hey Crazyelece, While I do agree with SH on the flow not being bad, I do know there are problems with heat in the 12Gal DX and using a MJ 1200. The problem is the watts used are extremely high as per many posters on another NanoReef forum. (remember that discussion thread Steelie?).

Anyway, in the 12G you can use a MJ900 and get great flow and use a lot fewer watts which will decrease your temps. Infact you can replace the stock pump you are currently using with a MiniJet 606 and your temps will be Ideal and your tank will have plenty of flow.

HTH,
TB
 
Well I guess I am going to try replacing the pumps then. I can always use extra powerheads. Plus Fosters and smith has a sale going on and my local big chain matches any printed price. I guess if that doesn't work I'll drop out the stock pump. I know that has to work because that would be the same as my brother's setup and his temp is at 80.
 
If I have to drop to one pump what would be the better option for the return, the split locline with two duckbill nozzles or the Hydor Flo?
 
SH, he has the hydorflo on the stock pump in the 1st chamber, the locline split is for the MJ1200 in the 3rd chamber. (I think I read that right)... I think he is questioning which pump to leave more than the return... at least that is what I got out of his question.

I would leave the stockpump with the hydor flow on it. It's more random. However, if you can temporarily leave the hydor in place of one of the duckbills that would be better.... but your temps will be higher still as you're using the most heat generating pump of the 2 you have currently.

Either way if you could even stablilize your temps to 85 and leave it there w/out fluctuation, then that would be best to do until you get your new pump in. As 85 degrees consistently is better than 4 degree fluctuations.

HTH,
TrekBear
 
Can you attach the Hydor Flo to loc line? It may also look funny but if it works what the h#ll. I have my temps stabalized at 80 but I have to keep the lid slightly raised. I think after I added a surface skimmer, the lighting may be the culprit. I am trying the other pumps to see what happens.
 
That should be enough flow for the hydorflo to rotate. It will not rotate as fast but it should still move.

Slow rotation is my indication of something amiss, as I see the rotation slow on either of my hydor flos. Quick PH cleaning and hydor flo gets taken apart and cleaned and reassembled and back to work...

HTH,
TB
 
Just to update, I think I have found the solution. I unplugged the old stock pump and all has been good with temps from 80.5 to 81.2 lights out to lights on. I think it will be ok when I drop the 1200 to a 900 and then add the mini 606.
 

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