My tetra is almost dead HELP

[Byron]

The bottom line is, that the ich parasite may be present but if the fish are not under stress they will not succumb.

This is also related to the fact that ich is present in many aquariums but never seen as spots because of the above. There really is no other explanation for a sudden outbreak of ich when nothing new has gone into the aquarium for months, and the heater fails on a cold night and the fish are chilled. If the ich was not already present, it could not appear after a stressful incident.

As for cures, the best treatment is heat and salt. Most (but not all) fish will be less affected by salt than by any of the so-called remedies. I went into this in detail with Dr. Neale Monks when I had a particularly stubborn case, and even in my tank of wild caught cories, characins (pencilfish, tetras, hatchetfish) and Farlowella, there were no losses. Heat alone, raised to 90F/32C is said to be effective, but not all fish can tolerate this for a week or two. A temp of 86F/30C plus salt often works best and with the least detriment to fish. Salt at 2 grams per liter was Dr. Monks' recommendation and it certainly worked.

 

[Cichlid4life]

The bottom line is, that the ich parasite may be present but if the fish are not under stress they will not succumb.

This is also related to the fact that ich is present in many aquariums but never seen as spots because of the above. There really is no other explanation for a sudden outbreak of ich when nothing new has gone into the aquarium for months, and the heater fails on a cold night and the fish are chilled. If the ich was not already present, it could not appear after a stressful incident.

As for cures, the best treatment is heat and salt. Most (but not all) fish will be less affected by salt than by any of the so-called remedies. I went into this in detail with Dr. Neale Monks when I had a particularly stubborn case, and even in my tank of wild caught cories, characins (pencilfish, tetras, hatchetfish) and Farlowella, there were no losses. Heat alone, raised to 90F/32C is said to be effective, but not all fish can tolerate this for a week or two. A temp of 86F/30C plus salt often works best and with the least detriment to fish. Salt at 2 grams per liter was Dr. Monks' recommendation and it certainly worked.

86°F is all you need to kill the ich, 90°F is far above the temperature that kills ich, and 86↑8F without salt is all you need to cure it.

 

[NickAu]

Salt at 2 grams per liter was Dr. Monks' recommendation and it certainly worked.

Dr Neil Monks knows his stuff.

 

[FishGuest5123]

The whitespot parasite has to be introduced into an aquarium for fish to catch it. The reason it appears in tanks shortly after new fish are added is because the fish or water they are in has whitespot parasites. These are introduced into the aquarium and spend a few days multiplying before appearing as white dots on the fish.

If people have whitespot in their tanks it will normally affect the fish very quickly and is fatal unless treated.

 

[FishGuest5123]

Again, not all the fish in the tank may succumb to it. The weaker and immune suppressed will.

 

[FishGuest5123]

Dr Neil Monks knows his stuff.

I agree 100%. Raised temp and salt is the best treatment. The salt will help gill function while temperature is elevated.

 

[NickAu]

If you ever had Clown Loaches you would know they are ICH magnets especially if stressed.

 

[Cichlid4life]

If you ever had Clown Loaches you would know they are ICH magnets especially if stressed.

clown loaches and yoyo loaches especially!