My Fishless Cycle

Thanks Cazzie. Lol I've done this very slowly so it's partly my own fault, I had the tank for about 6 weeks before I set it up and then had it filled up for about 2 weeks until I started my cycle. I'm telling myself it's good to be this careful and patient coz it'll work out better.

No, my concern was my filter wasn't working properly but then it occured to me that (as it's submerged) if it's rippleing the water (which it is)it can't be getting the air/water to do that from anywhere else unless it's sucking it in like it's supposed to be. So all's good I think!
 
Day 5:

Ammonia: 4.oo ppm ( I think I was wrong yesterday, I don't think it has dropped)

Nitrite 0.25 ppm.
 
...acting totally normal! Its a 60L, right? What color is your substrate and what all have you got in there? Just trying to picture it. :)

~~waterdrop~~
 
Yeah it's officially 60L but I worked it out to be 57. The cheeky bleepers count the built in stand/hood when they tell you the size.

I have black gravel and quite a dark background with a piece of bogwood in the tank and a rock that came free with it that will be coming out when I do my final adjustments (quite ugly) I also have a Hydor Airo in there too that isn't switched on and will also be coming out.
 
Day 6:

Ammonia looked like it was still 4.00 to me but my Dad reckoned it was nearer 2.00 so maybe it's 3.00? Ha ha we shall see tomorrow.
 
They count more than that in the US Caz. They count the outer plastic on the top and bottom rims of the tank and do very simple maths. Then to top things off they round the number up quite a bit. My nominal 29 gallon tank, a standard size in the US, holds about 22 gallons. I added the water a gallon at a time and simply counted the one gallon the bottles of water. Since they sell milk by the gallon, the bottles must hold exactly a gallon to be legal here, so I have a fair confidence in my measurement and no confidence in the stated tank sizes. I have even seen the manufacturers say that their numbers do not refer to gallon capacity but are merely a size or style number. They must have been caught once too often saying that a 55 gallon, which holds about 49 gallons, was a 55. My bet is the manufacturer's legal department told them to just call it a model number instead of saying it held that volume. Lawsuits can completely break the budget of a liar in this country.
 
It may help to be consistent with the lighting you use when judging your test results. I liked using a nice bright incandescent bulb shaded from me by an opaque metal shade placed between me and the test tube which I held against the white part of the color card. Compact fluorescents can have a greenish cast that can change the look of the result. Its a trick, leaning to judge the "hue" and not the "contrast." And the other thing you slowly learn is that although you want to try and make a good judgement and record your data and be regular, in the long run it will be more dramatic changes that matter.. its high or its zero.. one chemical is up and the other is down.. stuff like that ends up mattering more than one particular number being very exact.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Thanks WD

Oldman it's a nightmare isn't it. I just hope that missing 2-3l isn't going to make much difference to the fish I can get....though I suspect it is :(
 
Thanks WD

Oldman it's a nightmare isn't it. I just hope that missing 2-3l isn't going to make much difference to the fish I can get....though I suspect it is :(
Well you're right of course, accuracy and truth help in nearly all situations but one thought I have for you as a beginner thinking about the numbers of fish to stock your tank with is that coming here and learning really good tank maintenance from experienced people like OM and C101 and Assaye and the others, and then putting it into practice, will come out way ahead in terms of how their fish do in their tanks. Good weekly maintenance with substrate-clean-water-changes and a good filter cleaning schedule, perhaps starting out with a monthly cycle, will go a very long way to handling many reasonable stocking situations.

In the beginner section we like to suggest that beginners use a very rough "one inch of fish body (fins don't count) per US gallon of available tank water volume" for the first year or year and a half as a maximum stocking guide. We get a lot of grief for this because of course there are lots of people out there who imagined they could have more fish than that when they bought their tank and overstocking continues to be a very popular thing even with people who have been fishkeeping for a long time. The "rough inch guideline" (we prefer to never us the term "rule") can be a starting point that greatly helps beginners have a good first year experience, learning what a healthy tank feels like. Plenty of "old-timers" like OM47 and myself (if I can call us that) prefer to understock or not go above the rough inch guideline. As always, it should be noted that the size and shapes of the individual fish have a big impact on figuring out the guideline, meaning its a bit of a skill getting an individual stocking plan worked out and it goes much easier having a lot of back and forth with different people's help sometimes!

~~waterdrop~~
 
Thanks. I'm definitely going to play it by ear . The last group of fish I get won't be for ages (and it'll be understocked all the time before that) anyway so I won't do it unless I'm sure the water and everything is ok. and they'll only be Pygmy Corys probably!

What do you mean by Monthly Cycle?
 
Day 7:

Ammonia 2/3 :D

Nitrite still 0.25

But getting better I think!
 
Hi twinki, what I meant by "monthly cycle" was that once you have fish, the clock begins ticking for not only your weekly gravel-clean-water-change maintenance but also your regular filter maintenance. When you are first starting off, there's no way to know yet what would be a good interval of time (what I was calling "cycle") between filter cleans. I like to recommend just starting with once a month, but testing and logging in your aquarium notebook so that you can modify that interval to be shorter (eg. two weeks) or longer (eg. 6 weeks) depending on several factors.

The main feedback test for overall maintenance is the regular nitrate(NO3) reading. Your liquid nitrate test will be more reliable in its readings after the fishless cycle is over and all the nitrite(NO2) that tended to throw it off is gone. It will take weeks of feedback but basically what you're hoping it will do is settle down such that the water changes and filter cleans you are doing will cause nitrate(NO3) to just "stay steady."

A good range we like is 15 to 20ppm -above- whatever your nitrate(NO3) level is. (So if you had 10ppm nitrate in your tap water, then 30ppm would perhaps be the upper number we'd like to see it holding steady at. But really its the "steady" and not rising that's important, not the absolute NO3 number that it stays steady at. Does that make sense?

Nitrate(NO3) is not really the only bad chemical we want our water changes to remove, it just happens to be one we can make a cheap test for and we can use it as a "surrogate" for what we think other unwanted chemicals are doing. There are hundreds of organic molecules and heavy metal type ions in our tank that we don't want to build up (it would build up if we were "topping up" rather than water changing! -- that is why "topping up" is not a good thing if we don't also do water changes.)

Likewise, we want to squeeze or swish out the biomedia in our filter on a regular basis so that it won't provide too large a repository for NO3 and other bad chemicals and so that it won't clog up mechanically due to too much debris. We want the filter to continue to flow nicely with the same flow rate as when new. We also want to clean the impeller and its area and re-lubricate all the seals, if the filter has any. So, based on whether we see too much clogging or whether the filter seems rediculously clean, we can consider modifying our "starter interval" of once a month! Does that make sense?

~~waterdrop~~
 
Day 8:

Ammonia: 2/3.00

Yes that makes brilliant sense, thank you. I'll always have to do an x% water change every week though won't I?

Quick question, what do I do about the water in my tank while I'm cycling coz obviously the level is slowly dropping as I'm taking 5ml (more soon) out every say to test. Do I just top it up with more dechlorinated water? and will that not give a fake reading as I'll be diluting the Ammonia that's already in there?
 
The dropping water is not really significant enough to matter much. I sometimes just let it drop and then eventually there will usually be some excuse to water-change it back up. You're correct of course that water top-ups can fake you out about bacteria processing more ammonia than they really are. But again you just take that into account in your mind. The ideal way (assuming its not a hardship) is to do a complete 90% water change, top up with dechlored, temp-matched water and recharge the ammonia (and bicarb if you're using that.) Since its the filter that's being cycled, not the water, the only harm in doing this is that sometimes the bacteria seem to pause in their processing (on the other hand, sometimes it kickstarts them into better processing immediately!)

For somebody like you who's still waiting for the first drop I'd probably not disturb it unless it was taking weeks and I thought my water was hard and was going to leave white rings on the glass.

~~waterdrop~~
 

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