Most Important When Starting A New Tank

[loveforfhishies]

i have the water in my tank, all the plants and the filter is running ( penguin 350 ). what is the most important thing to test and watch for at this point?

 

[Built2Prfctn]

Hardness being one of them

 

[n3ont3tra]

Amonia and nitrites. Do a fishless cycle.
http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showto...113861&st=0

Maybe you should've put this in the beginner's section?

 

[Rooster]

Amonia and nitrites. Do a fishless cycle.
http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showto...113861&st=0

Maybe you should've put this in the beginner's section?

..and WITHOUT the plants !

 

[n3ont3tra]

You can cycle with plants...

 

[loveforfhishies]

yeh i know they always stress how much it is to not be in a hurry but i have waited for this tank for a long time and now its all here and i couldint stop myself, so the water is in it and the plants and the filter is running, i just didint add any chemicals or do any tests yet cuz every site says something different about tests and im confused what to follow.

so i ask for one of yours help, the tetratest laborett kit is kinda confusing

 

[Tolak]

Ammonia, then nitrites. When ammonia starts to drop, you will start to get nitrites. When nitrites start to drop you will start to get nitrates. When ammonia & nitrites drop to zero, and you have nitrates the tank is cycled. Ignore pH, it will vary in a cycling tank. This chart may help;

 

[erk628]

You need to add some form of ammonia to start the cycle orit won't actually start until you add the fish (not good).

 

[loveforfhishies]

well actually i have a zebra danio i just bought cuz this article said to put one in to get the amonia levels to rise and for things to become good?

 

[Tolak]

The general guideline for cycling with fish is one inch of hardy slim bodied fish for every 5 gallons of water. If this is the 50 gallon hex that would mean 3 or 4 zebra danios.

 

[loveforfhishies]

hmm i didint see that where i was reading, would it be worth going and getting 2 more tomarrow or is it critical?

i dont know how he will handle it in there, since i just got the tank going about 5 hours ago and the water tempature is resting at about 67 degrees,

the thing that confuses me the most is all the different chemicals and how to messure them and what ones are good and bad, it seems like alot to learn, but im sure ill get it after a while, i just dont want to have an unsucesful attempt on my first tank

 

[Tolak]

67 is a little cool, low 70's is better. It isn't real critical, you can wait a few days to add a couple more. One of the problems with a traditional cycle with fish is that you have to add them slowly, or your ammonia & nitrite levels will spike.

Hex tanks are taller, with less surface area per gallon. In a traditional rectangle 50 gallon you would have more surface area, which gives you more oxygen transfer to the water. With a rectangle 50 I would start with 5 danios, but since yours is a hex with less surface area 3 is better.

As far as chemicals go, the most involved thing you should be doing with chemicals is water tests, all you need to add to the tank water is a good dechlorinator. I use Prime, a Seachem product, as a water conditioner. That is all that gets added to my tank water, no pH adjusters, nothing else. It is all you need to add unless you get into breeding specific species, most any fish can be kept in tap water once properly acclimated. Don't get fooled by any lfs that tells you that you need to adjust your pH, it's nothing that needs to be fooled with, and will cause more harm than good.

 

[loveforfhishies]

i just got a Aquarium Kit from tank buddies that has a step by step tank startup,

1 water safe plus
2 amonia clear
3 correct pH
4 quick dip pH test srip

i thought it would be easier to read and use then this hi tech one i bought today.

this other test kit i have doesnt explain it real good.

should i put a water safe plus tablette that came with this start kit or should i put in this cycle nutra fin stuff that helps cycle the tank?

 

[Tolak]

The Water Safe will take care of chlorine & chloramine, but won't do anything for the ammonia created when you eliminate the chloramine. Chloramine is a combination of chlorine & ammonia that is much more stable than chlorine. This is great for the water treatment plant, but not great for the aquarist. Many dechlorinators will get rid of chlorine, break the chlorine/ammonia bond in chloramine, and leave you with ammonia. Prime or Tetra Aquasafe are better alternatives, and will deal with chlorine, chloramine, ammonia, and any heavy metals that may be present.

The Ammonia Clear is a product that will change ammonia to ammonium, a substance harmless to your fish, but still treated & processes the same as ammonia by your bio filtration. This and the Water Safe will take care of ammonia, as well as the chlorine & chloramine, but why not use one product to take care of all of it once you run out?

Correct pH is something that should never be put in your tank. Snake oil.

Liquid tests are much more accurate than strips, but take a little more work. The tests you need from the beginning are ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. This will get you through the cycling process. Many people use this kit, it's one of the best on the market; http/www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl36...ermastertestkit

 

[loveforfhishies]

ill have to see if i can find that kit at my fish store, but for now should i put anything in the water or can i turn that little fish loose and see how he is in the morning?

if anyone knows of a site that explains this in full detail but simple i would like to read it cuz im haveing a hard time grasping the whole chemical thing?