Medication Instructions...?

fry_forever!

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Hey guys! I got some pure metronidazole to treat my fish with, and on the instructions, it says to turn of UV, ozone, and chemical filtration.

Okay, so would there be UV in my fluorescent light? Should I keep it off? And I'm pretty sure my filter is a mechanical/biological filter - It's an Aquaclear 30. Should I turn it off?
And what do they mean by ozone? I don't have any ozone running as far as I know...?

All I have is an oxygenator, an Aquaclear filter, and a heater. Is that okay?

Thanks in advance for any help!

-f_f!
 
first things first. what are you treating for?

hopefully you have not been using the AquaClear30 with the carbon bag in it. if you have, remove the carbon bag before dosing your tank. you will need another carbon bag for when you are done with the meds. after your treatment cycle is complete. add the carbon to the filter for no more than 7 days, then remove and discard. you do not need activated carbon in your filter during normal operation.
 
Not sure what they mean by ozone?

As for UV, some people use specific UV lamps in the filters / pipework to try and achieve clearer / cleaner water. From the sounds of things you don't have it, (otherwise you'd know what it was :) ). Your normal lamp should be fine. If you have live plants then use your lamp as normal, but if you onyl have fish, then you could switch off the lamp if you wanted.

Chemical Filtration: This just means that if you have any charcoal in your filter you need to remove it. The charcoal removed chemicals from the water, and as such will also remove the medication.

Good luck :good:
 
Thanks everyone. Will reply quick as I have to leave for school.


I never keep carbon in my filter -- only when I want to get rid of a med. So, carbon was already out.

I am treating for hexamita in my livebearers.
 
generally, i do not use/suggest/advocate the use of chemical treatments, but if you chose to, that is your business.

if you are running your filter without carbon, and do not own a UV sterilizer, then you can just dose the meds as directed. you do not need to turn anything off.
 
generally, i do not use/suggest/advocate the use of chemical treatments, but if you chose to, that is your business.

if you are running your filter without carbon, and do not own a UV sterilizer, then you can just dose the meds as directed. you do not need to turn anything off.
Thank you very much. The help is greatly appreciated. :nod:
 
TO answer your query, ozone generators are used in some setups kind of like a UV sterilizer. If you don't know what it is, then you don't have one :)
 
Also you shouldn't be using meds until you know what you are treating for.
I'm not convinced your fish do have hole in the head or lateral line desease.
 
I'm pretty positive that they do. All their symptoms match the description of the disease. I'll take a few pics.

Here:





You can definitely see the lateral lines sticking out, though the pictures do not do it justice. The flash really messes it up. In real life, you can see the lateral lines protruding, and dents in the head.
I cannot see any red worms come out of the anus when the fish is not swimming. I do, however, see my fish excrete segments of clear poo attached to regular brown poo.

That is all, though. Skinniness, bones protruding, and from time to time, some segments of clear poo attached to regular poo.

Thanks a lot.
 
Ok.
The symtoms you are describing can be internal parasites to fish tb.
Lost any fish to bent spines.
Once a fish is really skinny and the body is sunken in and bones showing the fish is far from saving, the damage has been done.
Internal parasites can invade the brain also causing brain damage. Indentations in the head region and swimming in circles fast.

I would do some research on fish tb to rule it out. But even then tests need to be done to determine it was fish tb.

I think you are best just cutting your loses. Destroying the really sick fish and help save the more healthy ones.

Head & Lateral Line Erosion



Symptoms:

This disease is marked by open pitted wounds around a fish's head and along the lateral line, as if something is slowly eroding away the flesh. It is very similar to the freshwater disease Hole-In-The-Head. Head & Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE) is not fatal in the short run, but if the disease continues to progress, the fish will stop eating and become lethargic. Furthermore, the open wounds caused by HLLE make the fish susceptible to other infections which in turn leads to the further deterioration of its health. These secondary infections are usually the cause of death.



Cause:

Unknown cause, although it is thought that there may be several contributing causes including stray voltage in the aquarium, poor water quality and environmental conditions, high nitrate levels, lack of vitamins and poor nutrition, stress, parasitic infestation (the protozoan Octomita necatrix), or using carbon. Some fish, like Tangs and Surgeonfish, seem to be genetically predisposed to this disease.

The lateral line aids fish in detecting small microvoltages emmited by prey or predators during muscle contraction. The induced voltages from any submerged coil device such as a powerhead, heater, and pump can all add voltage to the tank. This stray voltage can irritate a fish's lateral line if it's constantly stimulating it and eventually lead to erosion of the skin overlying this structure.



Treatment:

Medications do not seem to do much for this disease, although the use of medicated food is recommended to prevent bacterial secondary infections. The best intervention, however, seems to be improving the water quality and supplementing the fish's diet with vitamins, particularly vitamins A, B, D, and E as well as iodine. This can be done several ways. Food can be soaked in water with a drop of liquid multivitamins, such as Selcon or Zoe. Alternatively, fish could be fed fresh or frozen vegetables, such as broccoli, zuchinni, and peas.

The importance of good regular aquarium maintenance cannot be stressed enough. Eliminate any stress-inducing factors. It might also be a good idea to add a grounding probe to the aquarium if you suspect that there may be stray voltage in the aquarium.
 
Thank you, Wilder. The pics I took are of the worst fish. But it seems that if I euthanize the really skinny fish, more just get as sick as they did eventually.

So, the ones that have the damage already done to them, will medications still rid them of any parasites that are inside of their bodies, even if they don't gain weight ever again?

I felt a shock up my arm when I put it inside the aquarium to do maintenance once, but I checked everything, (after turning power off) and found no cracks or anything. Everything is operating smoothly.

Thanks again. :good:

Cheers,
-f_f!
 

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