I'm finally serious about going pressurized. Looking for some advice on what kit to get. I want everything in one neat little package, except the tank which i can easily find locally.
Thanks Supercoley....now how about the US? I no little to nothing about brands, quality, ease of use, ect. I'm going to need some pretty specific help choosing the right one.
Looks OK but can't vouch for it. A lot of us tend to use standard welding gear rather than pay for specialised plant dedicated setups (which in most cases are virtually the same).
He does have a diagram for the yeast setup on there though which could be a worry although it is advertised with all the pressurised gear so should be pressurised. I would contact him first to confirm so that you don't get the yeast sent to you.
Just got my reg today. I was wondering if i would run into problems having my CO2 and lights on the same timer, or if i must have the CO2 come on some time before lights on?
I have reduced my lights a little and reduced the bubble rate of the CO2 as well. The CO2 drop checker now seems to stay the same colour all day and night.
Its more a case of if it gets to light green at lights on but is dark green at lights off then you are set right because theoretically it will take the nightime to get back to light green again (remembering that a dropchecker is always behind the actual ppm.
Also remember that you will be losing some of the CO2 at night because it won't stay in the water forever and if the plants are not using it then it will eventually exit the water.
Sounds good but mine came with the solenoid so I guess I'll just set a second timer for CO2.
Waiting for my KH test kit so I can make the 4dkh mix for my drop checker but until then i don't know my exact ppm. Going by my bubble counter, how many bps/bpm should i aim for? I've got it at about 1 bubble every second right now but I think that's a little high. The tank is a 30 gallon(US) and is moderately planted.
A drop checker with 4 dkh water solution and bromo blue will stay blue if you are to low, go green if you are about right, and go yellow if you are too high.
It will be an hour or 2 behind your actual ppm but will give you a clear indication of where you are.