Co2: No idea where to begin. Kits?

At the moment the tank has got two massive pieces of driftwood and lots of anubias and buce. The tannis are actually remarkable from the driftwood, turning the water brown (not just orange) if I'm late on water changes.
I want to take out the driftwood and grow lots of healthy bushy plants that I can play around with. It would increase the water volume because the wood takes up a fair bit, and the tank would be more stable because of the faster growing plants.
I actually find the tank aesthetically hard to enjoy, so I'm excited about the idea of a big heavily planted tank.
This was my favourite low light, no CO2, no ferts blackwater tank
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Almost zero maintenance. I took it down a couple of months ago because I no longer had the space for 4 tanks :unsure: but I still miss it. Find easy (and inexpesive) plants that work in your tank as is and the job is really easy. You don't have to buy a lot if you have patience. I bought a single bunch of each species and propogated by divide and conquer.
This was the same tank 7 months earlier...
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I have done pretty much all of it. I have done a high tech tank years back. I did it all DIY. Before I continue I would tell you what I have told people just getting into live plants for years now. Start off easy. There is a learning curve wo planted tanks. Just like you di not learn yo drive by jumping into and Indy 500 car, do not start with a high tech planted tank. Start with a low light tank with easyier plants. When you can make that succeed move up to more demanding pplants and higher lighting. And when you have that down, then go full on high tech.

I had an advantage when I started with live plants in my first tank. I had been gradening flowers and vegiies for many years. I untimately gave that up and did all my gardening in glass boxes.

I bought my dual stage regulator and 5 pound aluminum canister from a a beer supply company. I then bought the following online at a couple of places:
CO2 resistent tubing.
Bubble Counter.
Clippard Needle valve.
Eheim Canister Filter.

I was space limited both inside and outside the tank. So I did not use a diffuser. This is why I liested the Eheim canister as part of the CO2 system. I specifically used Eheim as the plant was to put the other end of the CO2 tubing into the intake of the Eheim. it wa the only canister brand I felt could stand up to gas bubbles in the impeller. I still had that Eheim working great over 12+ years after I took down the planted tank and sold the CO2 system.

I am pretty old and undergoing a planned withdrawal from the hobby. Last year I closed down the 75 gal. tank on which that canister was still running as well as the day I got it. My canisters are all Eheim Pro II 2026s. Two are still in use.

I was on a budget back when I got the CO2 set-up and I could not afford a pH contoller. So I came up with an alternative. i could let the CO@ run 24.7 but at night I would have an airstone in the tank with the pump on a timer. It would come on when the lights went out and turn off about 15 minutes before they came on. I never used it.

I found a way to run a somewhat lean mix of CO2. It was enough for the plants and I grew anything I wanted in the tank. But I let the CO@ run 24/7 at about a 1 bubble/second rate. I would adjust that as the plants grew and then reduce it some after a big prune. I worked fine.

Back then I ran power compact lights and since day one I used Tropica fertilizers. I gave it up after close to 10 years for the same reason as seangee. I have 20 tanks running and about 13 were planted at my peak. The CO2added tank took me as long to do weekly maint. and pruning on at least a many as 3 or 4 of my other tanks. I had 3 incarnations of the 0 year I had the tank.

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like plants as much as fish, as I do, go with a system using a PH controller.
Would you be able to tell me a little bit about using pH to control co2?
Am I correct in thinking that added co2 means a lower ph, which means the controller would keep the co2 level constant by matching a target ph. Whereas a regular solenoid thingy would just release the same amount every time, based on a timer plug?
 
@TwoTankAmin Wow, those tanks are incredibly beautiful. Thank you for your wise advice too, it's very much appreciated.


This question is for you and anyone else reading, is it unwise to start with a 75g for my first tank with added CO2? I can do a plants only 15g, but then the system might not be transferable to the 75g.
 
Would you be able to tell me a little bit about using pH to control co2?
Am I correct in thinking that added co2 means a lower ph, which means the controller would keep the co2 level constant by matching a target ph. Whereas a regular solenoid thingy would just release the same amount every time, based on a timer plug?
You are correct on both! Whichever way you go, I would recommend the two-stage guage system. Just the solenoid on a timer will not prevent the excess and dangerous purge of CO2 when the tank empties.
 
You are correct on both! Whichever way you go, I would recommend the two-stage guage system. Just the solenoid on a timer will not prevent the excess and dangerous purge of CO2 when the tank empties.
Ah great! Thank you. Will a ph controller and a two-stage guage prevent the dangerous purge when the tank empties?
 
TY re the tank.

Three more things I should have mentioned. The first has to do with refilling the gas bottle. No mater what time of year (meaning even in a summer heat wave) always bring gloves with you. I since i owned a nice bottle I wanted it refilled as opposed to exchaning and empty for a full one. The bottles must be inspected every few years and recertified. I wanted to get back my bottle.

When they refill the CO2 bottle it puts the gas under a lot of pressure. The cylander will be ice cold and you will be glad you have gloves. It will warm tto room temp. but when first filled it is ice cold.

Next, in all the years I ran CO2 I never had an end of tank dump. Maybe the needle valve protected against that, I am not sure. But I believe there is a lot of overkill wasting money on planted tanks.

1. My tank in those pics used Estes bits of Walnut a small sized coated gravel with no sharp edges as the substrate. I relied on two things to keep the substrate nutricious, The first was the build up of mulm over time. I never vac the substrate in planted tanks. AT most I will vac. to remove surface debris off of the plants and ground cover. I do not use any fancy substrate, dirt or specialized substrate for planted tanks.
2. I fertilized my substrate using this. But, this is not for those who like to rescape and redo their tanks often, If you dig this up so it gets into the water column you will leanr the true meaning of an algae outbreak.
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3. The only other piece of equipment I used because of plants is long tweezers, I have 2 one has a curved tip and the other is flat and straight.

I see no need for almost any of the specialized equipment , substrate etc,, for planted tanks. IMO it is overpriced, often unsightly and not needed. I spent my money on quality for what I did use. I started using Tropica Liquid ferts and, as they reformulated and rebranded it over the past 20+ years, I have stayed with Tropica. I figured if it was good enough for the worlds major grower of aquarium plants it was certainly good enough for me.

I still have 10- tanks and all but 3 are planted. One is a temporary tank holding excess plants and no fish or inverts, not even snails. My 150 gal all anubias tank. I has two 3 foot, old T-8 bulb lights over it. I use a very high quality (i.e. high CRI of 98) full spectrum Ultra Sun bulbs from Zoo Med. They are each 25w, so the total is 50w. So much for all the fancy expensive alternatives.
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Most of my tanks will be gone before the end of the year. I am working down from 20 to an ultimate of 4 by Xmas or sooner and then to just two in 2026. Old age has caught up with me as I will turn 77 fairly soon.
 
It may be luck or expertise but, I congratulate anyone who has not experienced an "end of tank, CO2 dump".

For those who have and suffered the tragic loss of fish, regardless of the reason, the extra cost of insurance is a justifiable expense, IMHO.
 
@TwoTankAmin Thank you so much for all this advice and information.
It's very good to know about the temperature of freshly filled Co2 bottles.
 
Is the pH drop from co2 not harmful for fish? Or would you only be dropping the ph by a very small amount?

I think I will get a pH controller like you suggested @OldFishKeeper
 
Is the pH drop from co2 not harmful for fish? Or would you only be dropping the ph by a very small amount?

I think I will get a pH controller like you suggested @OldFishKeeper
Any large and fast drop will be harmful to fish and BB. A ph Controller can be set provide minimal drops over time. Please ensure you properly cycle your tank and stabilize ph before adding fish.
 
Any large and fast drop will be harmful to fish and BB. A ph Controller can be set provide minimal drops over time. Please ensure you properly cycle your tank and stabilize ph before adding fish.
Yes, thanks. This 75g has been running for over 8 months with fish now, including 6 months with the exact fish I'll be using.
I won't be starting a tank, just a heavy rescape and starting co2 😁

I generally understand how ph effects fish and I will of course be introducing the co2 slowly but I was wondering if the pH would fluctuate a lot as the tank adjusted with the ph controller.

Another clarifying question, but the pH controller will stop excess co2 building up at night or when the lights are off ?
So I wouldn't need to run the pH controller or the solenoid off a timer plug, because the solenoid will be controlled by the ph controller which would essentially do the job of a timer in this scenario?
 
PH controller should prevent excess of Co2 day and night without external intervention.
 

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