rabbut
I don't bite, all that often...
Not necessarily. In a cycled tank the level of ammonia (and from this nitrite) production is equal to the amount which can be processed by the bacteria. There will always be some levels of ammonia and nitrite, just below that which we can test. The amount of ammonia produced will be in constant flux so there will be peaks and troughs in the levels (albeit very small) of ammonia and nitrite in a tank. I would expect a small ammonia spike after feeding, for example.
Obviously the above should not lead to levels in the 2ppm range.
Poorly frased on my part, sorry. I should have put, ammonia and nitrite should always be undetectable in a cycled tank, rather than zero. I forgot we are talking about things in a scientific context here, and thus zero to 2d.p. on a hobby test kit cannot be considered accurate I do somethimes test after feeding and never see spikes on my kits that are readable, so IMO and experience, our test kits should always say zero in a cycled tank, even if ammonia and nitrite aren't zero.
This is something that supports the advise given by regular forum members, in that liquid kits are better than strips or tablets. Interestingly Dr Hovanec does not rate tablets over strips, as is the consencus amongst members on here... Dr Hovanec recomends a different brand to API which is a brand swarn by by most on here, instenad recomending Aquarium systems or Kordon kits. I wonder if this is a recomendation to use kits by his company, or genuine recomendations that he is making from his experience
I put it down to him knowing his stuff. I have found the API tests to be mostly useless and agree with them giving false positive results (such as RO water mixed with salt giving levels of ammonia and nitrates off the charts). Also, someone mentioned a while ago about moaning to their water company cos their tap levels were too high and his accurate and properly calibrated test measured 27ppm in a tank which API was measuring up in the 80s.
Of course, one could always PM him and find out
I know you have seen API tests to be inaccurate, andy, but that does not seem to be consistant with other members experieces. I cannot comment here, as I don't use API and thus don't know their accuracy. Also, I haven't used either brand montioned by Dr Hovanec, so I can't comment on them either.
We recomend measuring nitrite concerntation to newbies, so this supports us here, though we tend to give ammonia more thought than nitrite, as ammonia is more toxic and does lasting damage, unlike (as far as I'm aware) nitrite.
I think you may be wrong here. Nitrite binds to Haemoglobins and prevents the fish from being able to transport blood to where it is needed. I recall Neale Monks once described the choice between whether nitrites or ammonia is worst as chosing between being killed by stabbing or gunshot; both bad and undesirable.
I think again that I could have frased this better. As far as I'm aware ammonia does lasting damage to the gills, where as nitrite does no lasting damage, exhibiting the short-term effects you describe above? Granted, they both can kill at low levels, but to me a substance that does lasting damage in the same concerntrations as another substance that only has short-term effects due to the exposure, then I would prefur to be exposed to the substance with the short-term effects. Obviously, past a point, both will kill outright in accute exposure cases.
All the best
Rabbut