Ick

Ich actually resides in the fish, not the water. Temps like 80 and 81 don't do anything to kill the ich, but it does speed up the life cycle of the ich. My guess is you got the ich doing your water changes.

I have tried this method, it wiped out my tank before you could say boo. Really high heat works, but some fish don't like it. Salt in copious amounts (3 tablespoons per 5G) works, but some fish are intolerant to it.

Maracide is good and safe for all kinds of fish. The fish in question are probably stressed from the move and being over crowded. I have had ich a lot in the past few months. It started when I offered to take my friends fish. I didn't see the ich on the fish until it was too late. It wiped out my tank. I only tried Super Ich Plus that time. Then I got ID sharks(dumb move I know) They got ich, spread it to my other fish and died. I used Quick Cure(It didn't work), I used Nox Ich(It didn't work either) I got Maracide. It worked. The other fish survived because I used Maracide. My boy bettas got it, I treated with Maracide for 5 days and they survived, the ich was gone in 5 days. My 20G got it cause I brought it home with me. My 20G was my quarantine tank. I used Maracide. It didn't work. I used heat and salt, it worked.

Moral of the story, not all things work all of the time. Just keep trying and I am sure you will pull through. Please don't add any more fish until the ich is gone. In fact, don't add any more fish until you have your stocking levels sorted out.
 
Mariah, do you have a test kit? we still haven't seen any stats for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates...my guess is that there is some underlying issue here...

a lot of people beleive that ich is present at all times (and yes it does live in the water/attached to substrate/decorations - that is where it reproduces and then it eventually infects the fish), but that the fish become noticeably infected when they are stressed from something else (most likely from moving the tank in this case or even bad water quality)...so if you haven't done so you should go out and buy a master test kit (a "wet" one where you use drops of solution in test tubes, not the test strips) which tests for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, and pH ...

ammonia should = zero, nitrite = zero, nitrate = as low as possible

if you are noticing ammonia or nitrite readings in your tank then this is the culprit for your fish stress.... you should read through this link thoroughly to understand how it all works if you dont know yet... Avoiding New Tank Syndrome

now i wont take it any further by saying i told you so...but...different individuals have different results with medications depending on many, many things (water parameters, type of fish, severity of disease, etc)...that is the only reason i recommended treating for a longer period of time in the first place...unfortunately it had to create some turbulence with other members, but i hope everyone sees why i pushed for a much more evasive and prolonged treatment from the beginning....

hopefully all will go well with the redose, Mariah. i'm sure the 2 fish that died did so from the stress related to the disease and not the meds, which has already been stated (if not attacked quickly, ich really can prove to be fatal!)...Keep a close eye on your fish, and more importantly your water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH) in the mean time and let us all know how it works out!
 
FishEnthusiast - I did turn up the temp gradually. Its at about 83 F at the moment. I will turn it up abit more today.

I will also post my stats later on today as well. And could someone please tell me why you think im over stocked?

Thanks for everyones support and kind words ;)
 
upsidedown cat = 2x 3-4" (6-8" total)
pleco (what kind of pleco?) = at least 4-5", up to 12"+
cherry barbs = 2x 1.5" (3" total)
rummynose = 1x 2" (should be kept in schools of 4 or more IMO)
serpea tetra (red minor) = 4x 1.5" (6" total)
swordtails = 4x 4" (16" total)
cory = 1x 3" (should be kept in schools of 4 or more IMO)
algae eater (what kind - if it is a chinese algae eater it will become agressive)


so, not including tetras, that equals at least 33 inches of fish per gallon once grown to average size (and i'm sure all the fish seem small now, but...) the general rule of thumb is once inch of fish per gallon of water... if you actually increased the number of rummy nose and cories, you would def. be overstocked...not to mention that the swords are likely to breed thus causing more stocking issues...

at this point i just wouldn't add ANY more fish, and would consider getting a larger tank or reconsidering the stock...if the pleco is a common pleco he should be rehomed as he will get HUGE..
 
Well I just had another death - one of the long finned tetras... He didnt even look sick. :rip:

And now I see what you mean about the over stocking issue.

Thanks ;)
 
Once again SORRY for the rant that took place. I believe the issue has been resolved yet I did want to point out that........... On my part I briefly read the post and didn't bother to see the tank size nor inhabitants. In turn my diagnosis could have been a problem as well as a cure. I appologize to all whom had to deal with the nosense. And must say I did learn a few new things that came out of this debate / wee, wee match. Best part is as adults we agreed to disagree and continue to enjoy the forum with a better sense of judgement.

abstract,
glad we solved our diff. and BOTH realized there was more to be learned than either of us thought. So guess that in part there was a leason to be learned. I did. :rolleyes:

please reframe from I TOLD YOU SOP ! :grr: :crazy: :whistle:



Mariah,
sorry to hear fishies died and my appology for overlooking what I did.
Alright, EVERYONE happy now ? :flex:

Danny


ps. still stand beside my Maracide though :whistle: :rolleyes:
sorry just couldn't resist..
 
lol as you can all see danny and i bridged the gap between our ways of thinking...let it be a lesson to all not to act like testosterone filled idiots and that discussion and not argument is the best form of solving any given issue... :X

keep us informed on how things turn out in the coming weeks Mariah - I'm sure you are taking the correct measures to turn things around!
 
Well today was going to be my last treatment with maricide for the ick but I went to have a look this morning and the RN with no spots on him yesterday is covered today! The upside down cats have abit on them too...

Any suggestions? Should I retreat another 3 times?

:blink:
 
Before you retreat give the gravel a good hoover, turn temp up to 30 and cover the tank with a blanket.
 
yes you are going to need to retreat ...what is your temp currently at? it is really best to have it around 85-86 as wilder suggested...speeds up the lifecycle of the parasite and slows down/stops reproduction
 
The temp is at 85 F. I did treat today. I will have to buy some more meds to do another set of treatments though.
 
Hi, Sneaker here, San Francisco Bay area. I've been dealing with an ich break-out for the past few weeks. Lost one fish (a beautiful sunset platty). Been using Quick-cure (blue/green dye plus formolin). I intended to treat for 16 days, but after 5 days the fish looked stressed from the treatment, so I stopped. Sure enough, the ich was back within 2 weeks. This time I'll keep-up the treatment for a full 16 days, but have decided to do frequent partial water changes concurrently. I'm guessing I'm riding the tank of some ich each time I vaccum and change some water. The cory's were the fish that looked stressed the first time around, so this time - no salt. Comments and advise - welcome. What do you think about the frequent water changes (30%, twice a week). Thank you, Sneaker
 
i have always been recommended to do partial water changes before each treatement with quick cure since the combination of melechyte green and formalin is extremly toxic and can kill fish
 

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